James H

Second planking soon  

Don't forget, start from below those engraved bulwark marks.

6 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Yes, I am just waiting for the finished model to complete the box art and manual.

No pressure then 😆

That's looking great! Nice idea to remove the king planks too. 

47 minutes ago, mugje said:

It would be great if that nice little launch could be bought as a seperate kit so you can use it on different ships. It think there is a good market for!

 

Great progress on the Flirt! Curious at the end result!

Maybe @chris watton can verify about the launch?

Lovely model, and sits comfortably on my worktop.....unlike the Victory which will eventually sit there!

I hope you post your results after this.

Ok, this will be my last log update before I post the finished photos in a few weeks.

I'm now on the rigging stage, but thought I'd keep you up to date with what to expect of HMS Flirt, when the kit is released.

Flirt will come with an optional launch, except for the Master Shipwright version which will have it as standard. This is built on an upside down jig and planked into 1mm x 2mm pear strips and then fitted out, including anchors, rudder, pikes, oars etc. I admit I loathe making these little things, but I'm happy with the result! The launch will only temporarily sat on the model as it will be removed for the kit instructions and box art.

Now it's time to concentrate my efforts on the lower mast tops. These are different in size, so it's important not to get them mixed up, as I almost did!

All mast sections are now tapered, squared-off etc. and then test fitted. 

More woodwork as the yards and booms are made. When finished, all parts are coated with polyurethane varnish and then masked before areas are sprayed in Plastikote Black. A further coat of varnish is applied over the black areas so they have the same sheen as the bare timber. Mast bands etc. are added using black cartridge paper. The masts and yards can finally be fitted out with blocks.

Rigging begins with the bowsprit, spritsail boom and boomkins. This differs a lot to the Speedy kit. Note also there is no flying jibboom on Flirt. There are different, significant changes between Flirt as she's depicted in her early rigging style, and the later rig depicted in the Speedy kit. The masts are then drilled to accept the yard pins which will help keep everything in place whilst I rig. The yards are only temporarily fitted for this post. 

The masts are then glued into position, pending the shrouds being fitted.

Catch you when I've rigged her...

😆

Certainly a unique project. Following along.

Welcome to the best, busiest and most helpful model ship site around. Loads of knowledge, content and friendly souls here to share your work with and learn along with the rest of us. 

I would make sure your parts are thoroughly degreased before blackening them. A good way to do that is to wash them in acetone or ethanol etc. 

That 'might' be your issue. 

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The red looks ok to me. Easy enough to change though if you think otherwise.

5 minutes ago, ErnieL said:

I have some work ahead of me. 

It's all just common sense. Look at the thickness of stern post and asses that against first planking while you sand...taking into account the thickness of the pear.

such lovely, clean work. Following along 🍿

Please keep this forum area for site issues only, as clearly stated. 

Topic locked. 

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21 minutes ago, ErnieL said:

Thanks. I need to check the keel and see how much I need to thin it.  Honestly it never crossed my mind at all. 
I've been tapering the planks at the stern to make them less prone to having gaps when they’re sanded. 

As long as the keel at the sternpost area is around 1mm-2mm, you can always sand down the pear so it's flush (or doesn't step) with the 3mm sternpost/rudder post. If the stern was left at 3mm before second planking, then your sand away the pear at the stern to make things level. I know most of this area is coppered, but it's good practice to thin it beforehand. 

6 and 9, the wrong way round?

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Slow and steady is sure working. That is looking real neat.

Outstanding!!

I'm following this topic