James H

STAGE 76: FURTHER COMPONENTS FOR THE LEFT UPPER ARM

Again, another liner is pushed into the socket on this left arm part, and then the shoulder joint is added.

Biceps and triceps now laid in place over the assembly.

Both left upper arm parts re now sandwiched together, and screws used to secure the muscles. I found I needed to use a rubber tip hammer to tap the main arm parts together at the shoulder joint, but they did fit nicely after that.

STAGE 75: FURTHER PARTS FOR THE LEFT UPPER ARM

This is probably the easiest and shortest stage of this pack, taking a whole 10 seconds to build! The socket liner is simply pushed into the left upper arm!

STAGE 74: TRICEP MUSCLE OF THE LEFT ARM

...and now the tricep, built exactly the same as the previous bicep.

STAGE 73: FIT COMPONENTS FOR THE LEFT SHOULDER AND ARM

First, the shoulder joint is assembled. 

The the piston shafts are built. These shouldn't be tightened too much as they'll not fit into the piston bodies, otherwise.

STAGE 72: THE FIRST PARTS FOR THE LEFT ARM

We are onto the bicep for the left upper arm. This is simply a piston body which connects to the shoulder joint and will eventually terminate at the elbow. 

PACK 8

STAGE 71: ASSEMBLING FOOT PARTS AND ATTACHING THEM TO THE RIGHT LEG

This pack is a continuation of the right foot, and also sees it complete. It really is very important that the photos are studied and the orientation and numbers of the parts. There are 2 rods per toe and some of these have a slight kink in them to accommodate the lie of the toes as they sit on the foot. These are assembled as before, and also using some thread lock on the grub screws. Care is also needed in orientation in fixing these to the feet too.

17 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

Is there any long term issues with this method? The results are awesome - is there a link to how/why this works?

Nope, none whatsoever!

Just add some to a small brush and brush the area you want to add PE to. Properly wet the area, then add the PE. Use a dry brush to wick away any excess and leave to dry. Seal with another brushing of Klear/future.

1 hour ago, Rustyj said:

😂. Thanks Jim. One question. When you attached the PE details to the out side of the hull what did you use? It's so clean and no glue marks.

 

Thanks Glenn, Yes I used Tamiya tape and then regular painters tape over that. 

 

Thanks for all the likes too!

I used Johnsons Klear (Future) floor polish. 

Just brush some in there and plop the PE into position. Wick away any excess and leave to dry for 30 mins. I then brushed some extra over the top. No glue and it's settled solidly into place with no glue marks. 

As for using Tamiya tape....don't waste your money. Buy Tesa Tape. Same stuff and a fraction of the price for the quantity. 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/masking-tapes/9139532/

Same grade. Same tack. Exactly the same, I promise.

I'm having Déjà vu !!!

Looking real good and that white area looks flawless.

Wishing you all the best for 2021 too, and for everyone here. Let's hope that in the real world, it's a darn sight better than 2020! 😆

That really does look very pretty. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

40 minutes ago, BigDan said:

Sorry for the intrusion that got you so upset. It was my first time posting something on MSW and I hadn't figured out how it all worked. Again I apologize, I am slowly getting the hang of it. Thank you to the administrator for sorting it out by "splitting" away my post from PJG's.

No worries!

Your build deserves to have its own log so it can be referenced. If you've any more photos, please feel free to add to your log. 

2 hours ago, PJG said:

You know you haven't been keeping up on your build when you return to find that someone else's model has taken over your log 😂😮!

Not that I don't think BigDan did a great job on his Fifie (I do), I'm just not sure the middle of my build log is the right place for it.

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

It certainly confuses the issue, I did a double take when I first saw the post I thought blimey he's moved quick, he's reinstalled the hull and finished off the model.😀

 

It is bad manners tho' to invade another modellers log, I see James has tried to give a large hint, to which Dan seemed oblivious.🙄

 

B.E.

Ok, I've split those photos into a separate build log.

Split from another build log to create one for @BigDan

Lady Nelson is a perfect model to build when starting out. Only one mast and limited ratlines to tie.

3 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

As in I don’t relish making one let alone multiples. Those little things are tough to build🤣🤪

Wait until you’ve done 9 or 10 in a row. They’re like falling off a log by then 😆

17 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I think maybe 2 or 3 of my Sphinx’s boats will have been lost in a storm 🤪😂🤣

Not at all!!!

These are for Sphinx:

24ft Launch

28ft Pinnace

22ft Yawl

That looks so exacting. Loving the photos too. Very clear to follow.

16 minutes ago, reklein said:

I'm currently building Trumpeters 1-350 Intrepid. The deck requires extensive decaling. I have applied  the base coats and am now ready for decals. Is it recommended to clear gloss coat the whole deck before decaling and then flat coating after? I see a lot of plastic  or any modelers doing that before decals.

 

Bill

You're always best glossing before decals, and if there's lots of moulded details on the deck, consider using a decal setting solution too. Once your decals are down, gloss over them before any weathering and a flat coat.

She is looking smart. You started painting the bulwarks yet?

6 minutes ago, FlyingFish said:

James, yes it was a great picture to take your date too - lots of opportunities for a reassuring arm on the shoulder!

Robert Shaw came from a town a couple miles from me too. (Westhoughton). There's a pub named after him. Quite ironic when you consider his predilection for booze!

That looks great! That pear came out real nice 😁

I think I was 7yrs old when I saw this film. Scared the cr@p out of me.

Looking forward to watching this.

She's looking real purdy 😍

There's not too much bare pear can be seen above the waterline, so it should be easy to sort a few of identical shade. I know my poly varnish did sort of level the colour across the ones I chose.

A good degreaser is acetone or nail varnish remover. There should be no need to wash afterwards, but you can just rinse them in water.