Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Well, other summer hobbies, kids, work, and life in general got in the way, but I'm back on my Pegasus. Even though I'm going to copper the hull and stain black the lower hull between the wales and the copper line, I figured I would try to plank at least the visible part of the planking using the planking pattern in TFFM. Not only does that involve spiling, but also the top six rows use top and butt planking (at least in the middle of the hull). Quite challenging, but it will give me practice for future builds. The rest I'll just go with the full walnut planks since they will be covered with the copper plates. The blue tape below marks the top six rows and the top 9 rows. I figured I would go with these for my planking bands because the top and butt planks are used in the top six rows, and the top nice rows fill out the line of planks to the stern counter. Haven't gotten too far yet, but did get one of the top and butt planks laid. Martin, if you're reading this, I haven't figured out how to use the chisels yet but hope to do so. This plank was pretty much straight, so an x-acto and a straight edge was all that i needed.
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A few models come to mind: - Model Expo's Constitution is 48" - AL's Surprise is 52" - Euromodel's Royal William is 46" - Billing Boats has a few I think that push 40+"
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Hey Martin, your Fly is coming along really nicely! I'm about to start the lower hull planking on my Pegasus. Did you end up working from the wales down to the keel? Did you spile your planks? It seems a little tricky to spile if you are going with a double planking approach. I'm thinking that I'll have to draw out the bulkhead ribs on the first planking to get some reference points. The good thing is that by coppering my hull, I really only have to be concerned with spiling the upper third portion of the lower hull. Hope all is well!
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Sorry, forgot to add the link to my post. I added it above, and here it is as well: https://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=5
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Great work Jason, coming along very nicely.
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Nice Daniel! Your thread is giving me a good kick in the pants to get started on my scratch SIB.
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I have this Panavise - it's very stable with the wide base and weight. With this Panavise, I've never had the need in this hobby to have a bench-mounted vise. https://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=5
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That's the one Charlie. For what it's worth, the Unicorn and the Lyme were members of the Lyme class and the first "true frigates" as has been said earlier. Ian, John and many other Unicorn kit builders and I have done quite a bit of research. I purchased the Lyme plans, and the plans in the Chapman book above for the Unicorn match up quite well. So, I think that the Chapman plans for the Unicorn are pretty accurate. Where I think the Corel kit fails is in the various details - particularly with the deck plan and the very narrow waist. Ian and others have suspected that Corel sorta merged the details of later period ships with the Lyme class, coming up with a model that is not particularly accurate. That being said, with a little research, I think the Corel kit can be improved to come up with a historically accurate Lyme class vessel.
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Looking really great Martin, very nice job! Good idea to test fit things. Cannons were the bane of my Badger build. I can't tell you how many times I popped them off the deck inadvertently. I'm probably going to do everything I can on the hull before adding them.
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Igor, that's incredibly beautiful work. The bottle is fantastic - those lines in the glass make for a really neat background. Well done! What material do you use for the sea? It has a very nice color and translucence to it that makes it look very realistic.
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Nice work Tom. Love the color of the hull. I built the Hannah SIB not too long ago - it makes for a nice model and introduction to ship-in-bottle building.
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Looking great Chris - nice set up you have. Welcome back
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Wow, that sounds fun. Cutting from a billet probably would be better than trying to bend the plank laterally. Good luck!
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I just fit the wales on my Pegasus in 2mm pear using top and butt planking. It took quite a bit of time, especially as I was cutting and fitting the planks by hand. I was thinking throughout the process "thankfully I'm not using ebony!" For most of the planks, I soaked them, pinned them to the hull, let them dry, and they were ready to go. The planks near the bow were a bit trickier and needed more bending, so I soaked and pre-fit them using the jig in the post below, before soaking them again and pinning them to the hull. I split a couple of the bow planks, until I realized that it really helped to soak the planks, then bend them by hand forward and backward to loosen the fibers in the wood before putting them in the jig. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=329358 Just thought I'd share, though I'm sure you have a better technique in mind
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Wow, the treenails look great Nigel. Glad you decided to take that approach. I might have to think about doing something similar on my builds. The ebony black strake looks fantastic. I'm sure it took a lot work to fit, but it looks really sharp against the boxwood.
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I like the look of tung oil on natural wood. On my Badger build, I thought it really brought out the walnut areas. I also used it on my tanganyika deck, where I used bamboo for the treenails. I thought the tung oil brought out the treenails a little better, though over time, my test pieces using tung oil and wipe on poly looked about the same. For the painted areas on my Badger, I used wipe-on poly. It's a very close second for me to tung oil in terms of finish. I bought some danish oil which I tried out on some test planking, and I noticed that it imparts a little more of a yellow color, particularly on lighter wood like maple. It might be good in certain circumstances, as I've seen others on here use danish oil to good effect. Redheart is another story. With the grain, tung oil gives the wood a gorgeous finish. End grain, however, turns very dark, almost black. For end grain, I found that varnish tends to keep the natural color of the wood: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=267828
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Looking really beautiful Ulises. The wales look fantastic with that stain - very nice touch.
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That's looking really great Martin. The spirketting versus the quickwork is a really nice touch. For the gunport linings, did you run the cranberry strips up to the edge of the plywood of the gunport patterns? A little further past it? I was wondering how thin and narrow these strips actually have to be. Speaking of which, how thin did you cut the sweep port linings? I bet that was a lot of fun
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Interesting, it does look very similar to the Unicorn of the Lyme class. Beautiful ship!
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Beautiful decorations Mark. I hope you plan to add them to your Licorne! The French ships are really gorgeous. The Corel Unicorn figurehead, while not exactly similar to the Licorne figurehead, should be a good model I would think.
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Yeah not sure I'd do it with ebony, but 2mm pear wasn't bad at all to work with
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Thanks Frank. Since I'm going to cut my planking out of pear sheets, I'm going to try spiling. Because I'm going to copper the bottom, I actually don't have to spile all that many rows of planks. It will also give me practice for my Lyme. I'm studying Chuck's tutorial and the Model Expo pamphlet on planking also. Thanks Per. I'm not going to be using paint at all on the build, at least that's my goal, but I will use stains and dyes for colors. I'm planning on staining the wales and planking under the wales down to the waterline in black. The planking above will be a mixture of pear stained a bit darker brown, pear or boxwood stained blue for the friezes background, and I'll be using redheart for the uppermost section of the hull planking. At least that's the idea right now
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