patrickmil
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Everything posted by patrickmil
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When I put these together I only soldered the posts on the end. I made a little contraption similar to a press that allowed me to create every stanchion exactly in the same shape. On the end stanchions (fore, aft and at the stairs) I soldered a pin to the bottom of them that I was able to place in a locator holes on the rails. The stanchions in between were just glued down without the locating pins. I did the wooden rails that ride the stancions by measuring on the wooden rails where the stancions would come in contact with them and cutting a slot on the bottom of them to seat them down on the ends of the stanchions and used black paper to simulate the little holders (I know... it's cheating, but it looks ok). I'm sure there are other ways that are better or more correct, but I figured I'd share what worked for me. -
Awesome pictures Rich. You are moving right along with these fiddly bits. Everything looks very clean.
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Steven, what I did with the nibbing strake was to take a 5/16 x 1/16 strip and soak it in water for a good half an hour. Once the wood was wet I was able to bend it to shape and let it dry. I then glued it in place on the deck up against the waterway. As I added the rest of the deck's planking I'd cut the prominent notches into the nibbing strake with each plank as it was added. I did this by shaping the end of the plank where it butts into the nibbing strake and then tracing the end of the plank onto the nibbing strake and then cut out the traced portion. The deck plank then fit like a puzzle piece into the nibbing strake. There are many more methods out there though and I'm sure my method is not the best by far. You can paint the bulwarks and ceiling planking prior to deck planking or you can do so afterwards. There is not one way that is always the 'go-to' method unfortunately and I think all of our members have had success with one way or the other. I am favoring painting the bulwarks prior to deck planking though.
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Sjors, I see some ratlines in your near future for this ship as well. Great work with your progress.
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Steven, let me add my welcome to the Niagara club. I'm sorry to hear about your father's passing. It looks as though some of the more difficult work has already been completed and it looks great. When I did my decking, I placed a full plank around the inside of the bulwarks and as I added the planks that butted up to the 'nibbing strake' I cut the notches into the full plank. I hope you enjoy finishing this ship model and think that it may spur you on to start your own ship model from the keel up one of these days.
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Bob, your planking is outstanding. Are you planning on putting any paint or stain on the Essex?
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Rich, that's terrific news. I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures of your Niagara.
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AJ, It's good to see some pictures. I think you are off to a good start as well. We're looking forward to seeing more progress on your Niagara.
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Ed, I really enjoy watching your builds in progress. Your explanation on all of your steps brings to life the processes you use and makes it feel as though your skill in this hobby is within reach of everyone. I didn't have an appreciation of how large this model is going to be until that very last photo.
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- young america
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I'm wondering if that door was added later on when Victory wasn't being used as a warship for easy entry? I read the Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Victory and noticed this particular paragraph: In 1889, Victory was fitted up as a Naval School of Telegraphy. She soon became a proper Signal School, and signal ratings from ships paying off were sent to Victory, instead of the barracks, for a two-month training course. The School remained on Victory until 1904, when training was transferred temporarily to HMS Hercules, and in 1906 the whole School was moved to a permanent establishment at the Chatham Royal Naval Barracks.[38] I would guess that they added the door at that time as Victory wasn't expecting to be put to sea ever again. Those are just my thoughts on the matter.
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This looks pretty sharp! I wonder if they also make a kit for the stern.
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Welcome to our Niagara club! I'm sure we're all looking forward to seeing some pictures of your work in progress.
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Those are great pics!
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Wes, you're Connie is looking sweet! Are you considering putting in any planking for the sub deck for looking down through the gratings?
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I like the Hobbylite stuff myself better than the Elmer's. With the Elmer's I feel that it leaves a residue on the surfaces around what you're filling unless you are perfect at only applying it to just the hole. Just my two cents...
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- confederacy
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Popeye, the stain looks great on her! I like the color and didn't realize that Billings had a line of stains also.
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Augie, great work! It looks like you are competing with Mobbsie for fastest builder on this forum. I'm anxious to use that exact same method of treenailing. It appears that it's a lot of tedious work but in the end I like the look of it.
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Hey Sjors, I'm glad to see an update on this ship. She is looking beautiful. I'm guessing that you are taking a well deserved break from rigging your Mirage?
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Mobbsie, those are great little ship's boats. As always, your work is very clean and looks great.
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- agamemnon
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I will have to echo Rich's statements for my post. Your gunports look especially clean and neat.
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Nice progress! We're starting to see the light at the end of your tunnel.
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Hey Popeye, I'm glad to see you making some headway with your Syborn. I like the colors you have on her so far. This is going to be real sharp when you are finished with it.
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Sjors, I'm glad you are finished with ratlines for a while. Your Mirage looks very sharp and is really coming alive.
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Daniel, that is a sharp little kit. Too bad they don't make these in a way to put in one of your bottles.
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- metal earth
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