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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. I used matt 65 sky blue for my hull and matt white 34 for the wheelhouse. The accomodation hatch and engine cover i used gloss 9- there is a pic on my gallery if that helps. Keith
  2. Nice job Frank- must must get back to my Billings Vic, but like you house renovations (and 1/35 armour!) getting in the way. Keith
  3. That is far more organised than my man cave Frank me olde mucker! Keith
  4. Nice job,i know your pain m8 -just re-lacquered the copper plates on my Vic as i didnt let them dry enough last summer and ruined the finish! hopefully after a few weeks drying time it will be back to work on her. Keith
  5. know the feeling Phil- due to gardening, D.I.Y. and WW2 german armour distractions havn't touched my Vic for a few months now! Nive work on the stern galleries there. Keith
  6. Looking very nice and ship shape Boyd. Nice size difference in builds there . Happy new year to you m8- must put me 1/35 german armour down and get back to my Victory! Keith
  7. looking nice there Frank m8y- a belated happy new year to you Keith
  8. Looking great Frank..... psst don't forget the flagstaff was removed when under sail Keith
  9. Belated birthday greetings Jesse- i drill into the hull and use brass pins held with super glue gel which sets faster than epoxy but doesnt need to be a tight fit like normal superglue. keith
  10. Ty Greg- cant believe its 12 months since i touched dreadnought due to my Vic taking priority through the summer and a distraction with 1/72 aircraft (darn airfix and their excellent new tooling!). The upgrade is designed for the trumpeter kit though so there are size issues if using it with the Zvezda kit. Keith
  11. don't know if its available in the states but i used spray on lacquer from a rattle can for my billings cutty sark and victory. I have seen untreated copper on ship models turning black after a couple of decades! Keith
  12. Havn't logged in for a while- you have been a busy bunny Boyd -looking great as always m8. Keith
  13. WB Frank- hope everything is o.k. now me olde mucker. Keith
  14. I think the lanyards look ok au natural Boyd keep up the good work (i always rig starting with the mizzen mast working forward as it is easier to rig the forestays without the shrouds of the mast infront getting in the way). Keith
  15. Bob i remasted a thirty odd year old model of victory for a friend and cleaned up the copper bottom which had oxidised black as it wasnt lacquered - this is why i always lacquer any copper plates on my ships. The pics of my cutty on completed kit built ships shows the copper after 18 years which while dulled i hope wont go black over time! Also beware fingertips are the most destructive element known to polished metal! Keith
  16. Coming along nice Dom- I hand painted the black on mine using thinned down coats of humbrol matt 33 as i was worried about black paint getting on the windows and other yellow painted areas i had already done, and it was shall we say interesting and i thiunk she should be black with yellow st stripes. Keith
  17. Hi Izzyi agree with Mark (mtaylor)- i am scratchbuilding a model of a 1927 built grab dredger which worked whitehaven harbour for over 70 years and remained coal fired to the end. I had to scratchbuild as no kit is available- however i still bought in ready made items like the handrail stanchions and engine room cowl vents. The anchor windlass was a "bashed caldercrat 1/48 kit, and the winch for the stern anchor was knocked together from several sources (including an 0 gauge loco kit) and some scratchbuilt items- really need to finish her one day- started it in 1998! If you google:- whitehaven harbour dredger clearway you will see loads of pics of the real thing on images. Keith
  18. Good point izzy- and why do people only put fastenings on the end of the planks as any boat i have been on has had fastenings were the plank crosses every beam
  19. Ty Lawrence, i have been seriously considering the Tamiya masking tape for some time now- i dont normally use it but my eyes are getting past painting long straight lines feehand these days - also thinking about delving into the world of airbrushing as opposed to hand painting and rattle cans. Keith.
  20. Ty for the likes and comments- the hull was first primed with white acrylic wood primer then sanded back slightly and halfords high build auto primer applied then sanded back then humbrol grey acrylic primer was used below the waterline. Above the waterline i applied a couple of coats of the main colour thinned down to act as a further priming coat. Keith
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