clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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Ty Lawrence it's nice to see her starting to come together and looking more like Victory. Keith -
Thanks again for all the likes everyone. Added the seats of ease to the bow grating and a thin strip below the capping rail on the forecastle bulkhead cut from lime sheet which wasn't a part of the billings instructions. Applied thinned down "priming coats of Humbrol matt 33 black and gloss 14 blue - nice using a colour apart from black and yellow! Also made the galley chimney from some brass tubing i had spare- didn't have any 6mm tubing in the fittings which is listed in the destructions! Hopefully will have most of the bow detail added within the next few days depending how the painting goes. Keith
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Playing devils advocate here you could even include the hatches for the second run of steps as well! It scares you when the frames start going in and you realise exactley how big she is. Keith
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Ty Phil- i decided to just use the laser cut ply for some bits because you probably wont be able to tell the difference once painted. Some stuff is being replaced with proper wood like the posts for the pin rails. Keith
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Looking fantastic as always daniel
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Welcome back Bob- and yup that looks strong enuff!!! keith
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sometimes you need a break Frank- why i went and did german armour for four months- just needed a break from my victory Keith
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Bit more progress with the bow area and trial fitted the masts and bowsprit. Also made a start on the tops just for a break of routine Didn't use the ply from billings for the curved "heads" but used some offcuts of thin aero modellers ply i have in my scrap box- it is half the thickness of the billings ply. Keith
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good idea for cheap wood- i have everyone gathering coffee stirrer sticks for me! -though these arnt suitable for fine stuff as they splinter easy. Keith
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Tanks for the likes, if i ever tidy up properly i wont be able to find anything Boyd Keith
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Trial and error is sometimes what it is all about Boyd- glad you found the right look you are happy with. Steps look brill m8. Keith
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After what feels like a lifetime working on the stern and quarter galleries it's been nice doing some deck fittings and working on the bows for a change Keith
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ty for the likes everyone. Hi Frank, will be using the brass castings from mantua so trois feathers it is- though the casting is not really finely detailed it will do. Keith
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Looks ok to me Boyd- To mark the chainplates use a piece of dowel and mark where the top or crowsnest is the tie a piece of thread and run this from the makeshift mast and over the channel and mark off the drill point. Hope this makes sense! keith
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Painted the black panels on the stern and quarter galleries, and made a start on the binnacle cabinet and skylight as a break from the hull! the black rectangle under the skylight will be glued inside it when the clearfix and wood adhesive has had time to cure. The ladders were left over from another kit and will be used for the staircase from the main to middle gun deck. Keith
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Hi there Boyd- yep painting it all is a pain- sorta wished i had just varnished it all now! As regards weather wind been picking up all day and unuaually for Cumbria rain getting heavier as the evening progresses- mind you me Gran used to say about March "in like a lion- out like a lamb" heres hoping! Keith
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I often say "why do i do this to myself" Frank but the build is sure looking sweet. Keith
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Things moving slowly- need to finish stern before i can really get to work on the rest of the hull as i hold her amidships between my legs as i am working on the stern! Second coat of yellow on and some more decoration- still need to tidy up some of the edges. also need some nice weather so i can sand the lining for the un-lidded gunports back which deffo is not going to be this weekend by the looks of things outside! Keith
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Sounds good to me too- and the more time you think things through now will mean less isn't hindsight a wonderfull thing moments! Keith
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Your welcome Boyd glad to be of service. in the world of model railways Alan Gibson does some nice brass wire in different gauges but it is very "stiff" to work- normally used for handrails and brake rodding. I get mine from Mainly Trains. Keith
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Ty Frank all support appreciated on the ciggy front Boyd, if you are using brass wire you may not need to solder the joins as the brass is fairly stiff and will stand up to slight tension- i never solder any brass rings i have made to hold pulleys and rigging in place- though being an electronics technician and having studied engineering at least my soldering skills are O.K. if not always used. Best advise is make sure the surfaces to be soldered are spotless and if not using cored solder dont scrimp on the flux. As to quitting the cigs i was on 40 roll ups a day, but got myself out of the habit of sparking up as soon as i woke up and wouldn.t have a cig for a couple of hours and weaned back from then. The e-cigs helped but after a while just went cold turkey. Keith
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Ty all for the positive comments and likes. Done a little demo of the jig and a deadeye "stropped" in it for Boyd. Also applied a couple of coats of black to parts of the stern and quarter galleries and applied a thinned down coat of humbrol matt no.74 "linen"mixed 70/30 as a priming coat. Have decided to use this colour for the yellow on the hull. Hope these help explain what i mentioned earlier Boyd Below is a shot of the paint so far. When the paint has hardened enough will lightly file back any wood grain that is "furring" the paint. As an aside i haven't touched a cigarette for over 4 months now, but still get an urge after a session modelling, but for now i have beaten the evil weed- hopefully for good . Keith
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Hi Boyd, yes another billings victory builder on the forum. To make my chainplates i have designed a jig using three pieces rod- two fit in the deadeye the other is for the strop. I will wrap the wire around the deadeye and strop former then solder the join- i will be using tin coated copper wire, For the other links i will use a piece of dowel shaped into a former and wrap the wire a few turns around that as mentioned in your log. Best use the hull to take the strain of the rigging as opposed to the chainplates- you shouldn't have your shrouds so tight you pull the links apart. Hope this helps. Keith
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To make chain links boyd you can shape a piece of wood to the shape of the link then wrap your wire around it a few times then cut of links as needed if that makes sense. Also have posted a pic of the deadeye jig i mentioned and another with a stropped deadeye in place ready for soldering on my Vic log. Keith
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