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mort stoll

NRG Member
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Everything posted by mort stoll

  1. Hi Mark, Meant to add that since there is cement on both the hull and plate there's no issue with the corners. Should a corner rise up I gently press it down.
  2. Hi Mark, I think I'm in the minority as I use contact cement when I copper a hull. I buy it in 3 ounce bottles, which keeps the fumes down and also apply it with the windows open. The bottle contains a small brush for application. I brush a thin covering onto the hull - a 3x3 or 4X4 area. I then apply it to each copper plate - yes it's time consuming. By then - approximately 15 minutes - the glue on the hull has begun to cure and I then copper the hull. I like contact cement because I have a few minutes to reposition the plates after I apply them if necessary, as opposed to Ca which instantly dries. If any cement does adhere to a plate I simply and easily peel/rub it off. Finally should it be necessary to slightly adjust or remove a plate after they completely dry I heat the plate with a soldering iron on low heat adjust or replace it. Any questions, don't hesitate. Keep up the great work. Hope this helps, Mort
  3. very nice. very, very nice. you're doing a wonderful job. keep up the great work. mort
  4. did you order the eyelets from cmb? keep up the great work it's very very nice. mort
  5. looks nice really nice. it's a delicate process but it's fine. i painted the preventer stays with elmers school glue - diluted white glue - and used a hair drier to accelerate the drying in order to make sure they stayed straight. keep up the great work. mort
  6. looking through the beakhead bulkhead door, one is transported back to the day....... great shot, great modeling. mort
  7. great job. if i didn't know, i would never know. keep up the great work. mort
  8. hi mark, i used adhesive cooper tape my mamoli connie which i completed about 10 years ago and it worked out fine. i first coated a portion of hull with contact cement and after a few minutes applied the tape - which i cut into individual plates before hand - and all was well. hope this helps, mort
  9. hi robert, a few years ago, another caldercraft victory builder - i don't remember who - on this forum in his build log posted that he with the aid of a computer program - sorry,i don't remember which one - reduced the ensign to the size where they would fit on the buckets. he then printed them on decal paper and was able to apply them to the buckets. hope this helps. please keep up the great work. mort
  10. hi michael, question. so i take it you did indeed trim parts #373 in order to get them flush with part# 270. thanks, mort
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