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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
ccoyle replied to mati's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
All of us are modelers, but a few of us are artists. You, sir, are an artist! 🏆 -
I missed the start of this model, to my regret. I recently saw a finished example of this kit on another forum -- it builds into quite an attractive model.
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- Santa Leocadia
- Shipyard
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Yep, masthead lights. The bridge navigation lights will wait until the railings are done. The ensign probably should've waited until then, too, but I couldn't resist.
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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Thank you! I moistened the original part so that I could remove most of the paper layers before folding (not draping) and gluing. To do the actual draping, I use a scribing tool and just try to imagine how the cloth would fold over on itself if it were hanging.
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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Well, I only made a tiny bit of progress on Sunday. If you can spot the additions, then you have a keen eye for detail!
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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So here's tonight's progress. The biggest remaining task will be the railings, which I will again be making from thread. Other than that there are just a few bits left.
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- Tijger
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I just now saw that the display model at Paper Shipwright has the boats switched around in the manner I described above, so I guess that's the way to do it.
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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Okay, now I have an issue. There are four boats; the kit refers to the larger boats as "lifeboats," and they are supposed to on the amidship chocks. The smaller boats, a whaler and a cutter, are supposed to go aft. The issue is, if the boats are placed in those locations, then the shrouds leave insufficient room for the lifeboats -- they're too big for those spots. However, I can move the lifeboats aft, as shown in the photo, and everything will fit. The question is, will I be violating some sacred Dutch naval protocol if I swap the boats around in this manner? BTW, the rigging was a complete pain in the Tuchus! I did not attempt to make the masts from the supplied paper parts. I replaced them with turned plastic rod.
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- Tijger
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I've done so on prior pojects, but then the resulting part is very flimsy and difficult to get mated to the boat's hull correctly. One has to carefully choose one's paper battles! (And yes -- Dan was a master, and he's missed.)
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- Tijger
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I did the port-side boat supports last night and finished up the starboard side tonight, then did the first two boats (not glued in at this point). I usually have quite a struggle with the boats, but these turned out nice, probably because I opted to forego cutting out the spaces between the thwarts and adding the optional internal detailing. That produces boats that are less 3-D, but they're also much easier to build. BTW, the secret to those spindly little support columns is to wick some CA into the cut edges before doing the edge coloring -- makes a big difference.
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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Many, if not most or even all, warships have redundant steering systems in case one is put out of commission during an action. I'd bet dollars to donuts that Tijger has an internal steering station somewhere.
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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Bollards, anchors, chain, anchor davits. The chain is a bit over-scale, but it was the smallest I could find at Hobby Lobby. I had to individually pinch each link with pliers to get the chain to pass through the chain stoppers and hawse holes. Boat supports are next.
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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That is a lot of castings to clean up. 😳 But, on the other hand, I've always thought that some of those Caldercraft kits looked pretty handsome when completed.
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- Marie Felling
- tug
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Well, I wasn't going to add a picture today, because all the bits I added today are quite small, but since you asked ... Here's an over-all glimpse. The additions are the fairleads (8), ship's wheel, and compass. And a close-up of the wheel (10 parts) and compass (5 parts), along with some scallywag's finger for size comparison (I'm fresh out of matchsticks and Tic-Tacs). Thanks for looking in! EDIT: There's also a new cowl vent in front of the stack. You'll notice it points upward at an awkward angle. I can't get the cowl vents in these kits right if my life depended on it. We'll just call them "Coyle-style cowls" -- or maybe just "Coywles." 🙄
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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Ugh ... this next step looks simple, but it was a real booger. First of all, the stack is not a simple cylinder -- it is oval in cross-section, and these are twice as hard to do nicely as just a plain tube. The second difficulty was the guy wires. These are made from EZ Line, and it is not "EZ" to work with at this scale. The anchoring points are tiny, which makes getting glue everywhere a real issue, and the line itself is so light that the slightest puff of air -- like when the AC cycles on -- makes the stuff want to flutter and fly away. I may have needed "special words" for this part. 😬 But at least it is done.
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- Tijger
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Another day's progress. Hawse pipes, capstan, bitts, chain stoppers. Forward superstructure deck and support columns. Skylights. Meer zal volgen, maar niet vanavond!
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- Tijger
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The amount of enjoyment you may or may not miss out on depends solely on the builder. Some are happy using whatever materials come in the box, others go all-out to super-detail their models, and many fall somewhere in between those two extremes. Anyways, as to replacement blocks, there are several suppliers in the US. Model Expo is the place if you want to get the usual kit-grade blocks. If you want to up your game, you can try boxwood blocks from Syren Ship Model Company. There are more options from overseas suppliers, but check out these two first. Cheers!
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Welcome and good luck on your project!
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Forward superstructure dry fit -- can't glue it down until some fiddly bits that go beneath it are finished (parts in the background).
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- Tijger
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- Tijger
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