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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Fill does wonders, if you plan to paint later. Consider using sanding sealer to fill in the wood grain as well.
- 65 replies
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- ballahoo
- caldercraft
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Hey, Kurt. In the reply pane, about halfway across the top bar is the link icon -- looks like several links of chain. Click and drag to highlight the text in your reply that you want the link to be embedded in, then click the link icon, copy and paste the URL in the appropriate line, and you're off to the races.
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Good start, Bob. It's good to see another example of this model being built and putting Clay's practicum back in the spotlight. I have changed the title to use the more appropriate term "semi-kit", which implies that many (or in this case, most) of the usual kit elements are not included. "Mini-kit" sounds more indicative of size, e.g. Mini-Mamoli, which this obviously isn't. Cheers!
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I was in the middle of building Mogami in 1/700 scale when my modeling mojo up and took a vacation for 18 years. I got into wooden ships when it came back around.
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I finished another oar yesterday. That makes three now -- only thirteen more to go. In between numbers two and three I had to condense two closets worth of stored "stuff" down to one and move my modeling space to a different room. Whew!! BTW, did I mention that I really don't like filing/sanding oars from laser-cut sheet stock?
- 116 replies
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That's debatable. My small house is running extremely short of 50-100 cm potential display spaces -- at least ones that the Admiral would be okay with.
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Model Shipways offers the gunboat Philadelpia, and Amati offer the Arrow, which is based from a plan that was never actually built.
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Mantua 1:78 Mantua 1:98 Mantua 1:200 Panart 1:78 Heller 1:100 Billing Boats 1:75 Model Space 1:84 Constructo 1:94 Revell 1:450 Revell 1:225 Mamoli 1:90 Mini-Mamoli 1:325 Artesania Latina 1:84 Airfix 1:100 Airfix 1/180 Airfix Series 1 (no scale) Lindberg 1:500 Shipyard 1:96 (card) Imai 1/150 Deagostini 1/84 Aeropiccola 1:170 Mikrostocznia 1:1200 And this doesn't include sectional models or Chinese knock-offs.
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Those kits are all currently in production, so you can find the MSRPs at each manufacturer's website. Take note, though, that Mamoli kits are now made by Dusek Ship Models. Also keep in mind that most retailers will mark down their prices some percentage from MSRP, and that a second-hand example of a kit that's still in production will not be worth as much to a buyer as a new kit. Kind regards,
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Looking for tips before beginning Charles W Morgan
ccoyle replied to spars's topic in Wood ship model kits
David, is this going to be an actual build log, or are you just soliciting some pointers? I believe we have a few completed examples in the gallery that you might find helpful. You can find them fairly easily with the search function. Cheers! -
Fabulous, Vince! And she compliments the bobblehead on the window sill nicely. 😉
- 593 replies
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- royal william
- euromodels
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Can't always trust display models as indicators of kit quality. We have many examples here at MSW of finished models that look far better than the ones shown in their kits' box illustrations.
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And now, many people will realize why Halinski are considered the "gold standard" of card models. Basically, ALL Halinski models have this level of detail and degree of difficulty -- they don't do beginner or intermediate models. I have only completed one Halinski model successfully, and the other got the better of me and ended up being binned. Finishing one is kind of a badge of honor in the card modeling world.
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New Ship Builder Old retired concrete buider
ccoyle replied to jimbobuild's topic in New member Introductions
Ferrocement is actually a fairly common boat building material. I remember as a kid in Northern California (the real Northern California, not the Bay Area wannabe kind 😛) that one of the yards on Humboldt Bay produced ferrocement hulls. -
That's very kind of you to take on this project for your brother. You're off to a good start, but I hope you took a couple of things into consideration. First, did you check whether your markers are water-based? I dip in the pond is not good for water-based markers, for obvious reasons. Second, did you give any thought to ballasting? With no ballast, your model will ride too high in the water and be top-heavy. Good luck with the rest of your project!
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Hola, Paco. ¡Bienvenido a nuestro grupo! Nos complace que participe con nosotros, pero todas las notificaciones deben hacerse en inglés. Puede usar un servicio de traducción de Internet (que es lo que también debo hacer): produce una representación aceptable y su significado es claro la mayor parte del tiempo. Cheers!
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There's a good chance that the parts you need are off-the-shelf fittings, which you can obtain from a number of U.S. retailers, e.g. BlueJacket or Model Expo.
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