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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. You could have smiled on that last pic on the beach:) But perhaps it was cold over there in Katwijk the model turned out as a piece of art. Hoping for the next one! Jan
  2. That will make a major difference to your model! Problem is: now you will be tempted to replace other white-metal parts as well.... Jan
  3. I did use it, but stopped using it. just plain PVA was far easier, and way cheaper..... Jan
  4. Hi Hans, This is a topic getting quite a lot of interest in the Vasa forum: Fred Hocker states that the frames are not vertical in that area of the ship, and that the gunport-sides are not coinciding with the frames. Besides: when looked at exactly at 90-degree, the aft gunports of Vasa are indeed not completely square, but it is the angle of the picture that suggests more than there actually s. Most of the gunports of Wasa are (almost perfectly) square and not trapezoid.... see this drawing (issued by the Wasa-museum) http://forum.game-labs.net/index.php?/topic/4220-wasa-1628-swedish-warship-with-plans/ Jan
  5. Goldleaf is always used on a red base coat, just for the same reasons. looking good, this coat of arms. jan
  6. There are some 17/18th century shipwreck on display in the Netherlands. The surviving hullplanks inthese wrecks show a large range of variation with respect to framing, planking, dropplanks (just ening in a sharp pointy end), placement of butt-joints, use of scarf-jounts etcetera. Almost none of these correspond to the existing witten texts on plaking from that era..... Lesson: shipbuilders tend to be pragmatic, and using their materials as economically as the customer would allow. It is mainly (English) navy that tended to adhere to strict rule (at least: on paper an din the dockyard models, no idea whether or not that extended to real ships as well.....) Jan
  7. Ah, well, getting blind, I guess....... Thanks anyhow
  8. There used to be a button 'report this post'. Am I overlooking it in the new lay-out, or has it vanished? (I was looking for it, as a Russian guy tries to sell us cannabis-seeds, which - as far as I'm concerned - has nothing to do with the core-business of this site) Jan
  9. You made it an alternative frame, sounds sensible
  10. Looking great (and large ) By the way: how did you solve the number-9 issue? Jan
  11. Nice truck! but the wood quality differs quite a lot, yes. I have this cross section on my wishlist, but I am looking for materiales that are to be handled without too many powertools, and that aren't not too expensive (I expect quite a lot redundancy, due tobeginners errors....) Jan
  12. I asked, while everyone keeps saying that basswood will never llok crisp. I just started to wonder, as these beams (at least in the pictures) look rather crisp to me jan
  13. Hi Drazen, Looks good. Next the keel, and sternpost, before attaching the last two (or three) planks. Planking almost done (for those who didn't realize: in these Dutch ships, all planks end in the rabbet in the sternpost, apart from the lower two (or three) that are running all the way to the aft end of the sternpost.) Jan
  14. your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values..... But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased: Jan
  15. Are you going to do furled sails, or sails that are partially taken in ( like in the original Heller version ) Jan
  16. There was no real progress over the last months. There will be none in th coming. As we are going to move over to a ne place, everything will be boxed up for the coming months. And no: the new place has no base,ent that could be turned into a wonderfull workshop Jan
  17. Photo's are lying yes, but most of the time I see things in my macro-pictures that aren't visible to the naked eye. So I tend to believe pictures. Still, I think you are doning a great job to the model! Jan
  18. Two tips from my own practice: Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank. Jan
  19. Two tips from my own practice: Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank. Jan
  20. Why only 'relatively happy', why not just unconditionally happy? From the pivctures it looks all fine. Jan
  21. Thanks, would never have figured out that one. Jan
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