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gjdale
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Everything posted by gjdale
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Lovely work Rob. -
Gotta agree with Mark on this one Ben. That looks like my work area AFTER I've cleaned it up.
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Hi Alan, I have both of these, as well as the saw. They do completely different jobs. I would say without a doubt that I would place the disc sander ahead in terms of versatility and overall use. The thickness sander will come into its own if you plan on milling your own timber. If you buy your timber already thicknessed, then it has less of an impact. As we are both in Canberra, if you'd like to come over and play with both you'd be most welcome. Then you can make an informed decision after using both machines. Just drop me a PM if you'd like to come play.
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Thank you Sherry. Having seen what you have achieved so far with your gorgeous San Felipe though, I somehow don't think you'll be needing much help with your ships boats!
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Then you seem to have learned well Sjors! Looking good.
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Thanks Mobbsie, The boats will all be painted, in keeping with the "mother ship", so filler won't be a problem.
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Thanks B.E. and Alan. In my last post I commented on the difference between the Dremel and the Marathon Micro Motor rotary tools. Here is a pic to show the relative size. Not only is the Dremel considerably larger, it is much bulkier to handle, heavier, and has no effective speed control (despite it being nominally variable speed). Ship's Boats continued: I finished the planking the Pinnace today, along with an initial (rough) sanding. As this hull will be painted, I could afford to take a few liberties with planking technique. So while it is not absolutely correct, it does provide a good foundation. I will be applying a little filler using a new (to me) product next, to achieve a nice smooth hull surface. I am inclined to do this prior to separating the hull from the build board. In the meantime, here are a few pics of the progress to date:
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Thanks Augie and Keith (and also all of the "likes"). Keith - I totally agree with you on micro motor vs Dremel. I might take a picture of them side by side to show the difference in hand piece size. The Dremel is huge by comparison. To answer your question, I will probably lay the garboard plank as the second to last on each side with this boat. On the Cutters, it will be first (for obvious reasons).
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Nice job thinking ahead again there Bob, in tying off the fore lower sheets. This is developing into a really superb model.
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I'll agree with Bob, who agreed with Chris...... subtle is better in this case. It looks fabulous Remco.
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Thanks very much indeed B.E. and Bob. B.E. - it's actually a whopping 95mm (rounded) long (not 68) The cutters will be shorter at 85mm, but wider in the beam. The challenge with them will be the clinker planking.
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Ship's Boats continued: With the Hawse timbers completed, it's time to start planking. I'm using 1/64" x 1/16" Holly for the planking. The first plank to be installed is the Sheer plank. All planks are soaked briefly in water, then pre-bent using a small travel steam iron. I find the steam iron gives me good control of the bends - especially the tighter ones. The gap mentioned in the last post comes into play here as it seats the forward end of the plank neatly while it bends around the bow. The second photo below shows a close-up of this. The next plank is the Rubbing Rail. This is thicker, but narrower plank, and I used 1/32" x 1/32" Costello Boxwood plank for this. Again, pre-bending with the steam iron is essential. The next plank is the first of the tapered planks. There is not a lot of science applied here. While it would be nice to do this the "proper" way, the scale and size of the actual materials make this impractical - at least for this apprentice shipwright. in this case, I have simply tapered the plank to half it's original width at the bow, starting from about the fourth frame back. More planking to come. It will take another 7 or 8 strakes of planking to complete the hull. Hopefully, I'll get to finish that tomorrow. The beauty of these little boats is that while they are fiddly and delicate, they do come together quite quickly.
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Ship's Boats continued: Back home for the weekend and have managed to get a little bit more done on the Pinnace. First up was trimming and shaping the hawse timbers. The weapon of choice for this task was the micro motor dental polishing unit that Janos had put me onto some time ago: While it looks large in comparison to the task at hand, using the polishing stone tip makes this task controlled and quite easy. The unit has a variable speed foot control that I am growing to love very quickly. I can see the Dremel being relegated to the "used technology drawer" in the near future. In the last photo above, you can just see a small gap between the Stem and the Hawse timbers at about the junction with the build board. This is important and the reason will become apparent in the next post............
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Wow! And here I was thinking that one Optivisor was the answer to my needs!
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Fascinating, educational, and beautiful, all at the same time Ed.
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This could get REAL interesting................ Don't forget to take the camera! Incriminating evidence to be enjoyed discretely among just the 11,000 or so MSW members.
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Glad to see you remembered the camera at last John! She's looking very nice indeed. And certainly easier to fix some frames that are a little too long, than a little too short!
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Congratulations on completing an excellent build Mike. You can and should be very proud of your achievement.
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Thanks, Mobbsie, Andy, Augie, Sjors and Keith. Your comments and encouragement are always appreciated. Keith - the hawse timbers are glued to the top surface of the build board. Andy - a ship-in-a-bottle is on my "one day" list, but I don't think it will a fully framed one! Not even I am that mad!!!
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Fantastic detail addition Johann. I love your "test bed" approach using the section model, which is proving to be a work of art in itself.
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Thanks Mark, Keith and Danny, and once again, all the "likes". Just a brief update. I've had to head off to Sydney again on family business, but did manage to take a couple of pics of progress on the Pinnace before leaving. Now I've had a chance to upload these Having fitted all the frames in place, the next stage was to install the Stemson. I used some 1/32" x 3/64" castello box for this. It is simply bent (with the aid of a small travel steam iron) to follow the curvature of the keel/apron: Next was the creation of the Hawse Timbers. The same 1/32" x 3/64"stock was used for these, and again they were simply bent to follow the shape of the Stemson. Here are the first pair of Hawse timbers going in - they have yet to be trimmed to shape: The remaining Hawse timbers were then created in similar fashion, following the curve of the last piece and stepping back along the curve of the bow, to eventually fill in the space between the keel/stem and the first frame. They are yet to be trimmed to length and faired in. Next job will be to trim the ends of these to match the shape of the first frame, and then fair them to form a smooth, solid surface around the bow. This will provide a good foundation for the planking at the bow. Sounds easy enough - what could possibly go wrong?
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When you do get to the great cabin Augie, you will need to refer to Doris's log for the correct way to outfit it. Now that the "standard" has been set, we expect no less from you!
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casting metal parts including cannon
gjdale replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
That's some impressive work there John! -
Congratulations Gary, planking looks great.
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