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Everything posted by gjdale
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Mike, I agree with others who have said that using the tick strip method, you should be using a different strip for each bulkhead. Each strip is the total length for that bulkhead divided by the number of planks for that bulkhead. Clearly then at the bow there will be at least one fewer planks. The planking fan / grid helps you get the spacing of the tick marks for each bulkhead, and this is what will produce the taper. The general rule for tapering is to taper to no less than half the original plank width. That is when drop planks come into play, although from the logs I've seen for this kit, that shouldn't be necessary in this case. Hope this helps.
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Nice Ben! That simple jig really is a great solution to a tricky problem. Thanks for showing us the detail of both it's construction and use.
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HMS Druid by Krug - FINISHED - 1:48 - Hahn
gjdale replied to kruginmi's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hi Mark, Interesting choices for your display. I'm also going with a seamless case. As for angle, while I like the idea of a slipway to provide some angle, my gut is telling me that anything more extreme would look a little odd. It would certainly be unique though! As they say, "Catain's Choice", (with the Admiral's permission). -
Congratulations on finishing the guns Bob - quite a milestone. The capstan looks terrific too - your usual impressively high standard.
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Rope making machines
gjdale replied to Daryl's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
Daryl, You will find several in the Articles and Downloads sections of this site. Here's a link to the relevant page: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php -
That's a very handy tip and your photo Ben, makes it that much clearer for those of us who are "spatially challenged"!
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Hi Alan, While EdT's setup may be OTT for this build, I just noticed your comment about the cost of importing the Rockler T-Track system. I know next to nothing about this topic, but did notice that Carbatec here in Australia stocks the Rockler system. They also have a Veritas system that might be similar. Could be worth checking out for the future.
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Nice to see the baby emerge from the crib Michael. I hope your gunport issue gets resolved to your satisfaction.
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Very nice Augie. Enjoy the fishing and beware the Moose!
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Wonderful work Ed, and amazing photos. Alan is right - you're costing me a small fortune!
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Where to purchase models kits in Melbourne
gjdale replied to richardpepi's topic in Wood ship model kits
Richard, I hate to say it because I would rather support local businesses here in Australia, but in my experience you will pay a significant premium buying through an Australian distributor. My advice would be to check out overseas suppliers. Even with the cost of postage, you will likely come out in front. Cornwall Model Boats in the UK are very good to deal with and reasonably priced (in my opinion). They carry all the major kit brands. I did a comparison just the other day, and I could buy an identical kit (same manufacturer) from Cornwall Model Boats, delivered to my front door, for 2/3 the cost for the same kit from an Australian distributor. And that difference was over $200! Be aware though, that if the value (including postage) exceeds AUD $1,000 then you will be hit for GST on arrival in Australia. It will still be cheaper! But please make sure you do your homework first. Good luck. -
Thank you Lawrence, Ben, Mark and Jesse, and also to all of the "likes". Minor update this weekend - not a lot of time in the shipyard after another week away. Did manage to find time to host a visit from fellow Canberra modeller Leanne (Moo) - always nice to make personal contact with other members of this great community! Ship's Boats continued: I applied some filler to the Pinnace hull, using a product recommended in my Warrior practicum - Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty (that's a 4 pound (1.8 kg) can in the photo: It comes in powered form which you then mix with water to a consistency of softened butter or 'soft cooked cereal'. It is then applied using a small stiff flat brush, left to harden for a couple of hours and then sanded off. It claims to never shrink. Clean up was easy (using only water). Sanding was also pretty easy, and the putty sands off in a dust form, similar in consistency to talcum powder. This product is not readily available in Australia, so as usual I let my fingers do the walking and found some on-line. The postage cost more than the product, but all in all not expensive. Having used it, I can say that I like it - and I now have a "lifetime supply". It is much easier to use than regular wood filler, especially on the extremely fragile boat. I suspect similar results could be obtained with Spakfilla (for the Aussies reading this). I then released the boat from the build board. I was a little too enthusiastic with this and damaged a few frames in the process. Managed to repair them all without too much fuss. Still a bit of cleaning up do do, but here is how she looks now: And just as a reminder of the scale of this little one: I've also finished the first part of cutting out the frames for the two Cutters, so should have them in the build boards next weekend, as well as progressing with the Pinnace.
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The most silent disk sander
gjdale replied to Mike Y's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Mike, I have nothing against Proxxon tools - I believe they are good quality. However, I have the Jim Byrnes disc sander (along with most of his other products), and I can tell you without hesitation that you won't find a better, or quieter, machine anywhere. It is beautifully constructed and near silent in operation. Like all his tools, it is an absolute joy to use. -
Nice to see you back in the shipyard Mobbsie. Now that you've finished correcting the mistakes of the so-called "tradesmen" in the kitchen, you can return to the important things in life!
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Nice start Danny. So glad to hear your health has improved and with a good prognosis.
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