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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. gjdale
    Mark, I think Carl summed it up perfectly. Good job!
  2. gjdale
    Thanks Mike, I'll have another update soon but when I went to upload some photos today, I discovered that our hard drive is full (of downloaded movies). Will have to do some cleanup before posting - most likely next weekend.
  3. gjdale
    Another excellent video Paul. Thank you for taking the time and effort to produce and share these - they are an excellent reference source and I have bookmarked all of them.
  4. gjdale
    Excellent smithing there Danny. And another great mini tutorial too!
  5. gjdale
    The correctness of your decision on the planking is summed up beautifully in your statement: "Mrs Cathead likes it". What higher authority could there be?
  6. gjdale
    Your planking is looking very sharp there Bob.
  7. gjdale
    Looks like another fascinating project Dan - I'll follow along too.
  8. gjdale
    Great to see you back in the shipyard Augie. She's looking mighty impressive.
  9. gjdale
    Looking good Mobbsie. I'm glad you took a few progress shots here 'cause I forgot to!
  10. gjdale
    Great job on the hull Nils, and congratulations on reaching the milestone of removing her from the board.
  11. gjdale
    For Brass, try Birchwood Casey Brass Black - usually available through gunsmith type shops and very good for brass. Or you might try Jax Pewter Black - usually available through jewellery supplies shops. The latter seems to be suitable for a wider range of metals, including white metal castings. I've just started using it and have been pretty happy with it. For Copper, try Liver of Sulfur (LoS) - get the gel version. The advantage of LoS is that it can be used in situ, without straining the surrounding timber.
  12. gjdale
    That looks good Kevin, and accurate. I'd stay with this method.
  13. gjdale
    Great to see the repair job underway Mobbsie. It's a shame that it was needed, but as you say, an opportunity to improve on the original build. Love the new stand too!
  14. gjdale
    Lovely work John, as always.
  15. gjdale
    Good catch Mike. Looking superb.
  16. gjdale
    Thank you very much Larry, George and Christian.
  17. gjdale
    Great work Danny. Glad to know the Jax Pewter Black arrived safely and seems to have worked very well for you.
  18. gjdale
    Great to see you back Kevin and making some progress on your lovely Miss Vicky.
  19. gjdale
    Thanks folks. Carl - I have no idea of the answer to that question. Perhaps one of our more knowledgeable brethren can answer that for us both.
  20. gjdale
    Thanks once again for all the kind words folks and to all those who hit the "like" button. The Main Hatch The main hatch was a fairly simple construction using Redheart for the Coamings and Head Ledges, and Walnut for the Hatch Cover Boards. Templates were made from the drawings to assist with the lap joints and round up. Once the timber components of the hatch had been completed, two coats of Wipe-On Poly were applied to the Hatch, the Mortar Pit Housing and the deck frames on the Starboard side (which will not be planked). Lifting rings for both Mortar Pit Housing and the Main Hatch were made from brass wire formed around a drill bit, cut off with a rotary cutting disc and then soldered closed (I cheated and used a lead/tin soft solder). These were blackened chemically using a new (for me) product called Jax Pewter Black. Its claim is that it blackens all sorts of metals, including solder. After a bit of experimentation, I settled on diluting the solution 50/50 with distilled water, and after the usual cleaning process with vinegar and acetone beforehand, it seems to work fairly well. The same process was used to install lifting rings in the mortar pit housing. The Waterways were next to be tackled. These are made from boxwood and have two angled faces on the top side, which are not even. I thought about how to mill these for quite some time. After a tip from Danny, I tried to follow his technique of making a scraper from an old exacto chisel blade. Although I managed to make a reasonable shape for one angle, I couldn’t get an edge on it sufficient to scrape the timber. After some more thought, I marked out the profile along the length of the timber, and then used a couple of very small planes – one Veritas squirrel tail palm plane, and one even smaller Japanese finger plane. These worked a treat and the job turned out to be much easier than I had expected. Here’s a couple of pictures showing the current state of play.
  21. gjdale
    Nice to see another of your Woody Joe kits Clare. I like the look of these.
  22. gjdale
    Lovely work Sherry and nice to see you back and posting again.
  23. gjdale
    Thanks Danny for the much needed guidance. Keith - sorry for hijacking your thread. Let's now resume normal programming.
  24. gjdale
    Thanks guys, I also have Ken's book and I've had private correspondence with him before as well - he is a very helpful gentleman as well as an extraordinarily talented modeller. I was thinking of using aluminium for the splinter, but I guess copper or brass would work equally well and as you say is readily available in a number of thicknesses.
  25. gjdale
    Richard, Good questions - to which I have no answers! I might have mentioned that I am not an engineer , and I have very little experience in soldering. My plan was to experiment and see what worked. My current thinking is that it doesn't need to be terribly strong as it shouldn't be taking a lot of direct force. I envisage that most of the soldering would be from underneath so as not to impede the passage of the timber. I would be most grateful for any advice from more experienced/qualified folks here.

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