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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. I agree with George, Marc - having the right tool for the job brings a whole new degree of satisfaction to the work.
  2. Glad to hear your mojo is back in residence Kevin. Nice start to the shrouds.
  3. I've been away all week with work, but in my absence the Admiral very kindly cleaned up the hard disk so that I could upload my photos. So here is a slightly overdue update. Upper Deck Planking and Bulwark Lining The upper deck was next to be installed. Once again 3/16” x 1/16” Holly was used for the deck planks, with one edge darkened with a 2B pencil to simulate the caulking. I prefer the more subtle effect the pencil caulking gives. Treenails were fitted using the drill and fill method. The only issue here was that having done lots of testing for treenail filler earlier in the build I was a bit tired and was therefore too lazy to check back through the log to ensure I was using the right one, trusting to memory instead – big mistake! I subsequently used the wrong compound, and then had to re-drill before checking and then using the correct compound. I gave the deck a coat of Wipe-on-Poly to protect it from the inevitable “pink dust” that was about to be created with the Bulwark liner installation. Redheart was used for the Spirkiting and the Bulwark liner. The two strakes of spirkiting are 1/16” thick and the lower strake needs to be shaped to fit against the angled waterway. This was achieved in the same way as the waterway angle, by using a small hand plane. The upper strake was also angled to provide a smooth transition to the 1/32” thick bulwark lining. This upper strake also had to be cut to fit around the lower edges of gunports and sweep ports. After some consideration and discussion with my build buddy (Mobbsie), I decided to install “iron bolts/nails” in the Spirkiting/Lining using the same method of copper nails, blackened with Liver of Sulphur, as shown previously. Here is a picture showing the completed deck and the spirkiting/lining drilled and ready to accept the iron bolts. Once the bolts were installed and blackened, the sprikiting/lining was given two coats of Wipe-on-Poly. The following photos were taken after the first coat had been applied. The lighting conditions don’t really do it justice – it does look a little more red to the naked eye.
  4. You could always ask that 9-yr old to come back and advise you on the "correct" way to do it John!
  5. John, Liver of Sulfer (LoS) will not blacken Brass. It will however blacken Copper. If you use Copper in lieu of Brass, then use the LoS and yes, you can use it in situ without any ill effect to the surrounding timber. It is a good idea to wash of any excess with plain water though. You can see some examples where I've used it on my Bomb Vessel Cross Section build. Birchwood Casey Brass Black is good for blackening Brass, but must be rinsed thoroughly after use. It should NOT be used in situ.
  6. Thanks Carl - been there, done that with a laptop once before. I have no desire to repeat the experience!
  7. Mark - the bowsprit is not the scariest part of that photo!
  8. We have an external hard drive, bought specifically for this purpose. Just need to convince the Admiral that she needs to move more of her movie collection to it.............. Yeah, I know, good luck with that!
  9. Thanks Mike, I'll have another update soon but when I went to upload some photos today, I discovered that our hard drive is full (of downloaded movies). Will have to do some cleanup before posting - most likely next weekend.
  10. Another excellent video Paul. Thank you for taking the time and effort to produce and share these - they are an excellent reference source and I have bookmarked all of them.
  11. The correctness of your decision on the planking is summed up beautifully in your statement: "Mrs Cathead likes it". What higher authority could there be?
  12. Looks like another fascinating project Dan - I'll follow along too.
  13. Great to see you back in the shipyard Augie. She's looking mighty impressive.
  14. Looking good Mobbsie. I'm glad you took a few progress shots here 'cause I forgot to!
  15. For Brass, try Birchwood Casey Brass Black - usually available through gunsmith type shops and very good for brass. Or you might try Jax Pewter Black - usually available through jewellery supplies shops. The latter seems to be suitable for a wider range of metals, including white metal castings. I've just started using it and have been pretty happy with it. For Copper, try Liver of Sulfur (LoS) - get the gel version. The advantage of LoS is that it can be used in situ, without straining the surrounding timber.
  16. That looks good Kevin, and accurate. I'd stay with this method.
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