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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. gjdale
    You could use a drop of glue to simulate the rivets Jay. You could even add colour to the glue before applying. I've seen this technique used to great effect.
  2. gjdale
    Nice to see some pictures there John. I agree with you about the skylight. If you're going to rebuild it, you may wish to have a close look at some source photos to check the number of panes on the roof, sides and ends. I can provide you with some photos if you need/want them. Interestingly, it was re-building the skylight that marked my own entry to MSW 1.0 - so it's definitely not too late to start a build log (hint, hint).
  3. gjdale
    Simply wonderful Doris. Just stunning work all round. Thank you so much for sharing your talent with us.
  4. gjdale
    Very nice work on the deck houses Marc.
  5. gjdale
    Don't know if it's just me John, but I'm not seeing the pics - only the file names. And yes, a flogging followed by a keel hauling is in order for not maintaining a build log!
  6. gjdale
    Jerry, You might want to have a look at the Krylon brand "foil" paints. I emphasise the "foil" in the name of the paint. They are a spray can. Although i have recently acquired some, I have not used them yet myself, but fellow MSW member Ken Foran ("xken") has used them extensively in his exquisite brass model building (check out his book on this subject too). You will find a link to his book in his build log for Niagara. You might also wish to PM him for further advice. Ken is also the kit designer for the Model Expo model of the Allerton Steam Pumper. Hope this helps.
  7. gjdale
    George, Have you tried art-supplies shops? That's where I get mine over here. They are expensive, but I think they are worth the investment.
  8. gjdale
    I like your wood clamping idea Jay and will also "borrow" it. Just this last weekend I ran into that exact problem and could have used this method instead of marking my pieces with the steel clamps.
  9. gjdale
    Per, Sounds to me like your problem is priorities, not $$$ :)
  10. gjdale
    Steve, It's all in the camera angle!
  11. gjdale
    Love it Alan - thanks!
  12. gjdale
    It seems to have been a long time since my last post, so just to show proof of life here is a quick update. Upper Deck Framing These last few weeks have been a very busy time since returning to work, and so visits to the shipyard have been few and far between. As the opportunity has arisen, I have kept plugging away at making the various knees, Carlings and Ledges. Preparation of the Carlings was very similar to that for the Deck Beams, with notches cut on the mill and finished by hand with a chisel. Knees and Beam Arms were all cut on the scroll saw and finished on the Spindle and Disc Sanders. Unfortunately, despite the care that I took in aligning the Deck Beams, Beam No.2 is slightly out, meaning that the Carlings between Beams 1 and 2, and between Beams 2 and 3, are also slightly out of alignment. Here is an overall shot to show progress to date – of course the angle was carefully selected to hide as many imperfections as possible! This shot was taken immediately after sanding, so some clean-up is still required. The side that will not be planked will also receive a coat or two of Wipe-on Poly in due course.
  13. gjdale
    Great to see your new log started Bob. I'll be following your progress with interest.
  14. gjdale
    Boyd, I could have sworn I posted something here yesterday, but it seems to have been lost in the ether. If the knots on the rings are what is bothering you, try using a fake "splice". They are not hard to do and look convincing.
  15. gjdale
    I don't think "luck" has anything to do with it Nils - just your very well thought out approach and excellent skill in execution.
  16. gjdale
    Chris, The nature of these products make it unlikely that you'll find them at one place. It's only us weird folk called model builders who need the two items in our workshop together.
  17. gjdale
    Congratulations Bob. It's all been said by others already, so I'll just echo all of their comments. A truly outstanding build - well done Sir!
  18. gjdale
    Very impressive stove Alex!
  19. gjdale
    Great work Mobbsie. Okay, I took the hint.........it's been a busy few weeks back at work.......hopefully the shipyard will re-open this weekend and I can start playing catch-up again!
  20. gjdale
    Very interesting review Mark, thanks for posting.
  21. gjdale
    Chris, Here's a link for Birchwood Casey Brass Black: http://westernfirearms.com.au/cleaning-gun-care-bluing-wood-metal-care-brass-black-p-1599.html You can get some solder in a syringe through Micromark. There are other suppliers, but I seem to have lost the links. Hope this helps.
  22. gjdale
    John, Like Mark, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking about. If it is brass rings, making your own should be pretty straight forward. Otherwise, have you tried looking at Cornwall Model Boats online? They seem to carry a pretty comprehensive range of parts and fittings.
  23. gjdale
    Hi Harvey, Glad to have been of help. You're right about the drawings being the wrong way around in the AOTS book. I'm pretty certain that the Sea Cutters are 25ft though. Not sure of my source - I'm still away from home.
  24. gjdale
    Harvey, My recollection (from reading AOTS notes (I think the drawings were slightly out from the notes) and I think the AOTS notes are supported by Longridge, though I'm away from home at the moment and can't check): Launch - 34ft Barge - 32ft Pinnace - 28ft Jolly Boat - 18ft Cutters (x2) - 25ft (these being the ones carried on the quarter davits and clinker planked). As for scaling, the math is fairly straight forward. If "X" is the actual size in feet, then to convert to mm at 1:98 scale: "X"ft x 12 (inches per foot) x 25.4 (mm per inch) / 98 or, more simply: "X" ft at 1:98 scale = "X" x 3.11 mm So: 34ft = 105.74mm 32ft = 99.52mm 28ft = 87.08mm 25ft = 77.75mm 18ft = 55.98mm Hope that is helpful.
  25. gjdale
    Very nice progress David.

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