gjdale

Thanks Mark - was back in the shop today, but worked on the Runabout instead. I'm finding it useful to have the two, totally different, builds underway. When I need a break, or some thinking time, I just switch over and let things settle for a while. I don't think the problem is a plans error. Probably one of those accumulated micro errors things. It would have been fine had I not pre-cut the gun ports/sweep ports. I'll start the "fix" tomorrow.

Thanks Mobbise, Mark and Ben. A minor update tonight...... Construction: Gauges continued Continuing development of the gauges, I came across another idea from the RC Forum – instant domed gauge glasses! Yes, they’re “googly eyes”. A few minutes on the sanding block to remove the backing and reduce the diameter to just fit the gauges and you have: The plastic is not quite as clear as I would like, so not sure yet whether I’ll go with this in the end. I have another alternate method to try yet……..

Sean, This is one of those cases where you've got to look at the instructions, read them carefully, study the ship, read the instructions again, look at the plans, read the instructions again, and then throw them away!!!! Then go ahead and plank the quarterdeck. The fitting of the poop deck is the biggest "paint you into a corner" in these instructions for this kit. See also my note in post (#8) on page 1 of your log re fitting of cannons to the quarterdeck BEFORE you fit the poop deck.

Thanks very much Richard, Jack (P), Aldo (great to see you back my friend), Ben, Marc, and Jack12477 (welcome aboard Jack). Well, the first really serious hurdle has hit. Despite the care taken with cutting the gunport / sweep port cutouts, when I went to install the lower sills it became evident that a certain amount of adjustment was required. I decided to re-mark all of the heights based on the waterline (set by the height of the top of the jig - and yes, that was checked all round first). On one side of the ship all of the ports need to move up a little, and the other side they need to move down a little. That in itself is no big deal - I just adjusted for each port as I installed all of the lower sills. The problem is that where sills have been lowered, there is then some of the cutout in the side of the frame that would still show, even after planking. And of course, for the side where the lower sills were raised, although this is not a problem here, it will be for the upper sills on that side. After consulting with my chief co-conspirator (Mobbsie) via Skype, I discovered that he had found the same problem. We chewed it over for a while and have decided that the "fix" for this is either (1) start over completely; or (2) remove some of the vertical part of the frame and insert a filling piece that will not be noticeable once the planking is in place later on. While I have to confess to seriously considering Option 1, I decided to go with Option 2 (as has Mobbsie). I haven't started that process as yet as I've just had to have some minor surgery and discovered long ago that serious pain meds and ship modelling do not mix well. I'll probably start on that process this weekend. No pics until the theory is proved! Oh, and in the spirit of good sportsmanship, we decided that we would indeed warn Jack P of this particular pitfall BEFORE he got to that stage. It was tempting though Jack...............................

Yup, wot they said! Looks great Mark.

Gotta agree with the others Augie - very nice work!

Great work on the sails again Jesse - they look fabulous!

Nice work Sean. You'll be pleased to be moving on to something a bit different now.

Just stunning, as usual, Remco.

Nice to hear from you Robbyn and glad that things are okay with you. We'll be here, waiting patiently, when you you're ready to resume building.

Great job on the wheel Marc, it looks fantastic!

Welcome to the forum Brian. That's a really excellent looking little lantern. Lucky you had such high tech equipment to make it with too!

Up to your usual high standard I see Bob.

Great work Mobbsie - you're really powering ahead now. It's all looking "shipshape".

Thank you very much Brian, Mobbsie, Bob, Rusty, Jerry and Sy, and of course, all of the likes. I am constantly in awe of the generosity of spirit of the modelling community and would like to pay tribute to two special gentlemen. Firstly, our very own Rusty, who PM'd me recently to offer to send me his copy of the Dumas DVD on finishing techniques. An offer that I might add, I accepted with grateful alacrity - it might just get me through the fibreglassing stage! Thanks ever so much Rusty! The second acknowledgement I'd like to make is to someone who, to my knowledge, is not even a member of this Forum. That gentleman's name is Mr Ken Foran. Ken is an expert modeller and is the designer of the Model Expo Allerton Steam Pumper kit. A little while ago, I bought this kit when ME had one of their 40% off sales (I know, I'm weak, I couldn't help myself). When I sent a query to ME Customer Service regarding something in the instructions, they kindly put me in touch with the kit designer, Ken. I have since had an ongoing email dialogue with Ken, who it turns out has also written a book "Model Building with Brass". This book is an absolute beauty! Not only does it provide lots of tips and techniques that are applicable to model ship building, but it is packed with beautiful colour photographs of Ken's work - a great coffee table book as well as a must-have reference book. Anyway, it was reading his book that prompted me to have a go at the instrument gauges for this build and Ken has patiently answered my (several) email questions about how to go about this, including tips on cutting techniques and achieving a highly polished effect. Thanks Ken! Right - on with the show..... Construction: Gauges Having successfully competed the “proof of concept” for the gauges, I went back and turned up the final versions, adding a few improvements as I went. In particular, I made the “undercut” behind the gauge more substantial to help with mounting, and I put a bevel on both the inside and outside of the outer ring. Before parting off from the lathe, I used a succession of finer grit sanding pads, and finally some metal polish to achieve an almost “chrome” finish. In the pics below, I've included the original "proof of concept" test to show the difference in finish achievable: Browsing the RC Forum, I came across a set of gauge faces that someone had drawn up and posted, so I “borrowed” these rather than re-inventing the wheel. After a little trial and error to get the sizing right, I printed them up and have just temporarily placed them in the gauge faces for a “test fit”. At the moment they are just printed on plain paper. In the final version I may print them on photographic paper. Further testing to be done yet. Given that the larger of the dials is just 10mm in diameter, I think these look acceptable. I have a plan for the gauge "glass" - coming to a forum near you soon........................

Yep, well done on the bulkhead Sjors. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the fit out now.

Flying Dutchman brand are also very good.

They look pretty good from this distance Bob!

Thanks David, Mobbsie, Dave, Canute, Rusty and Jeff, and all the "likes". As everyone seems to agree that things look good to proceed, I've glued the first frame in place. This will be a fairly slow process as I will be installing some filler/spacer blocks as I go and waiting for each frame to set properly before moving on to the next. I'll post more pics when we get there. Jeff - it's nice to have you looking in on all of us. Your drawings are a joy to work with.

Great job Mike - bravo!

Great work Augie. She's looking more beautiful every day!

Thanks Augie, Jack, Mobbsie, David (Scratch) and Mike, and all of the "likes". Well, the frames are finally complete. Here they are prior to having the WOP finish applied: All of the gunport and sweep port sills have been pre-cut, again thanks to Mobbsie for showing me the method for this: And here are all the frames test-fit in the jig: All appears to be in order. I marked all the reference lines from the frame drawings on the individual frames, and they seem to be fairly well aligned and in roughly the right place, so I think I'm good to glue up. If anyone spots any glaring errors, please let me know before I break out the glue!!!

Introduction I bought this kit about two years ago, having been enamoured by the excellent build log of Rusty on MSW 1. Sadly, that build log disappeared with the “great crash”, although Rusty did re-instate the photo sequence from his build. This kit represents a couple of “firsts” for me. First up, I’ve opted to go with making this a working radio controlled model – something I’ve never done before, but the Admiral thought it might be a bit of fun and so in a way this is “her” boat. We have a pond/lake nearby and some grand kids that might also enjoy taking her for a spin (if they can wrest the controls from the Admiral, that is!) Secondly, the building of this boat calls for the use of fibreglass – something else I have never done before. What's in the box? The kit contents are interesting and appear to be generally high quality. There is a mixture of die cut and laser cut parts, Mahogany strip wood, cast metal fittings (with what appears to be nickel plating), a type of plastic board (which forms the hull below the waterline), some aluminium strip (for the trim), and some styrene strips (that form the “caulking” for the deck planks). The kit also contains all of the running gear required to make the boat operational, minus the motor, battery and RC units. These I bought separately at the time that I bought the kit. The propeller supplied is a two-bladed plastic one, so straight up I opted to purchase a replacement three-bladed brass one (you can just see this in the centre of the photo below). A set of decals, a full size plan sheet, a collection of building diagrams and what appears to be a fairly comprehensive instruction manual complete the contents. I had also come across a book titled “Mahogany in Scale” by Patrick Matthews, which is meant as a generic guide for modelling this style of boat, but uses this exact kit as the example throughout. Having read it from cover to cover (twice), it will be a great reference throughout the build. Construction - First Steps I also found a number of build logs of this kit on an RC forum (including one by Pat Matthews) and have already come across some interesting ideas for modification. A common complaint among other builders has been the use of a decal strip for the instrument panel. I have already decided that I will replace this by making my own instrument gauges. So oddly enough, having cut out a build board to commence the project, I decided to start the build by doing a “proof of concept” for the instrument gauges. It took a little trial and error with the lathe, but here is a sample of what they might look like. I forgot to add a scale reference, but this is one of two smaller gauges that will be about 12mm external diameter. I have bored out an inner section to a 10mm diameter, into which a gauge face will be glued, and I have cut a shoulder and bezel to allow it to be mounted through the dash board. The one larger gauge will have a 16mm external diameter with 13mm inner section. I have found a few pictures of appropriate gauge faces on the web, and will probably draw my own in CAD based on these. Of course, my mate Mobbsie is now trying to convince me to add LED lighting to these……………..

Likewise Jesse, hope you're feeling better soon and able to move on with this - the finish line looms ever closer!

I'm stickin' with WOW!!! and OMG!!! Just beautiful Ed. I too am intrigued by this sculpting epoxy......