Jump to content
HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (Only 13 donations so far - C'mon guys!) ×

Baker

Members
  • Posts

    4,234
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Baker

  1. Installing the tracks and side skirts. Cutting the axes that are too long (And didn't cut my fingers this time ) The tracks are too short (longer chassis) They are now joined with staples (Cheating) Removing some track teeth So that they slide on the idler wheel ( again cheating) Tracks in place Cheating (3th time) with a tooth pick) The side skirts Turret and antennas glued Ready for painting Thanks for following
  2. Small update. Installing the mastfeet (mastfoot) I first had the idea to replace some of the bolts of the mast feet with eye bolts. But later decided not to do this, just bolts. The fore and bowsprit foot was a bit complicated, and i needed three parts for this. Mizzen mast Main mast, with pumps installed Fore mast and bowsprit (pumps are not glued here) Thanks for following
  3. I also wondered why the wale has this shape. The only reason i can think of : Is the position between the capstan (normally stands on the deck behind the main mast) Only if the deck follows the shape of the wale. Then the capstan can be used for lifting the anchor and the yards of the main and fore mast. In a very simple drawing explained
  4. Maybe this was an early form of seats of ease (seats of "not so" ease 😉)
  5. Yes and no. I don't know yet when I'll start on them. They can be left "on the shelf" for years to come Thanks for the offer
  6. They seem to be quite correct. Only the one on the right is upside down
  7. The wheels tracks and side skirts. Extending the kit's side skirts was not a good idea. So new are made. All parts are prepainted. Because the model has side skirts there will be little visible of the wheels, suspension, tracks etc. The return rollers are certainly hard to see. So I don't pay much attention to them. All "axes" have different lengths. Will be adjusted later after drying The sprocket need to be adjusted So that all wheels are in line. A few drops of CA glue. This significantly shortens the drying time. With these old stiff tracks you would otherwise have to wait days for all the glue between axles and wheels to harden. Ready for track mounting and clean up the axes. The tracks are of course too short because the hull has been extended ... ( No worries ) And, i invested in some mobile artillery. And some sheet and round strip Thanks for following
  8. Only one original mast top from the 16th century exists, and that's that of the Mary Rose. (Replicas of 16th century ships are not really reliable for information) I solved the problem like this (post 546).
  9. My first idea was also a Panzerbuchse. And it took me a while to figure out what it actually was.
  10. Kettenkrad and 10.5 cm Leichtgeschütz 40 (probably Russia, summer 1942 ) Couldn't resist, sorry 😇
  11. Congrats with your Panther One tank built, many others left to build also?😉
  12. beautiful models.
  13. kit parts replaced by own work That is the modeling microbe That strikes you 😉
  14. Well done for your first wooden ship. Congrats.
  15. I do more WWII modeling then modern . so, no idea if they are correct 😳
  16. Welcome back Nice collection of ship models.
  17. would it be acceptable to have the 251 towing a 7.5 cm anti tank gun? If not what vehicle should I get? This is possible. but it is rare, then you build a Sd.Kfz 251/4. Normally this version was intended to pull a 7.5cm artillery gun. But 7.5 Pak40 is certainly not wrong Becourse the 251 was an expensive vehicle, these were very rare. Which vehicle to tow a PAK40 Normally an Sd.Kfz11 (the unarmed version of the 251) or a Steyr Raufenschleffer Ost (There may be more vehicles i think) As the war progressed: Almost anything heavy enough to tow a PAK 40 Examples: A Steyr 1500 , trucks all types: opel, Ford, Mercedes, etc. Ps, One of the final versions was the 251/22 You never guess .... a Pak 40 mounted on a 251
×
×
  • Create New...