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Baker

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  1. Baker
    Between the main and mizzen masts on the upper deck is a good place. red bay.pdf ( if the link doesn't work , page 11 of the Pelican build)
  2. Baker
    The Billings Vasa has its shortcomings, but you will enjoy building it. These links are very helpful http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html https://sites.google.com/site/clayton707/vasa1628
  3. Baker
    Great work on this small scale. Ever thought of making the eyebolts yourself?
  4. Baker
    Indeed, beautiful work 👍
  5. Baker
    Great start.
  6. Baker
    A galleon made by Luponero. I follow with great interest 👍
  7. Baker
    Nice work
  8. Baker
    Next try Sewn sails are indeed out of scale at 1/110. Back to the 1st method with paper tissue. This time not kept in shape with CA glue but with diluted PVA glue. And the furled sails are easier than the cluwed sails First footropes were applied. A metal wire first folded into shape Then the sail and the ropes. i think this methode looks better and fits more this scale. Maybe these should be cut shorter The "how to build" will follow later (if it becomes this method). Constructive ideas are still welcome. And, if someting is not right, please say so. Military modeling : years of experience. Sails, furled or cluwed, are unexplored territory for me.
  9. Baker
    I found this technique on you tube. This is the first test of the third attempt. The intention is to think about necessary improvements. And yes, the thread is indeed too thick. And now i know what clewed up sails are 👍
  10. Baker
    A small update on the furled sails. Attempt 1 (and 2) with different paper tissue and CA glue. Wasn't what it was supposed to be. I got good results with it in military modeling, but for furled sails, unsuitable. Also discovered that the brown color of the yards did not match this model, so they are painted black now. Attempt 3 sails sewn from cloth. 1 test model done. This attempt has worked out reasonably well, but not quite what it should be. To be continued, thanks for following.
  11. Baker
    Perhaps the Vasa model is a good example of this setup. I think : If the fore mast is far enough back then the bowsprit can be placed in the center and therefore also rest on the stempost http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html http://www.wasadream.com/photoswasa/154.jpg
  12. Baker
  13. Baker
    Welcome to MSW
  14. Baker
    Actually, yes and no. On almost all ships with the fore mast in front of the fore castle it is attached to the bow (in a hole in the beakhead knee). On ships with the fore mast in the fore castle you see all the possibilities. Rules, habits, or maybe they had the same problem at the shipyard every now and then and they just did what suited them best. In this era, information is sometimes unclear. But When the fore mast is so far forward, she has less support in the ship than when she is in the fore castle. Perhaps the strength of the fore mast was not trusted to absorb the extra forces of the forestay of the main mast. If I still got my lessons in mechanics right The setup with the foremast in front of the fore castle can only absorb forces in the forward direction (2 support points). The setup with the foremast in the castle can (should) absorb forces in both directions (multiple support points). Who knows??
  15. Baker
    This resulted in the same problem. But the solution is near. not completely in order yet but on the right track.
  16. Baker
    Great work. I made this model years ago and still have it. was fun to build.
  17. Baker
    We do have a colorful language. Just search for "kinderkopjes" (heads of little childs) on google... Continue with the upper part of the main mast. Building the top of the mast (not the "mast top" ) glued in place and sanded And a test fit. It should become something like this. Someone (I) forgot that the mast must also have a support on the lower deck. So I drilled a hole in this deck and hammered a nail in it And drilled a hole in the mast. plan B but effective And discovered my first rigging problem. Long time ago a modeller had the same problem. Beautifully solved by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship. to be continued
  18. Baker
    Impressive model and crew.
  19. Baker
    Great work on a beautiful model
  20. Baker
    Congrats, again 2 beautiful models built
  21. Baker
    Thanks, First I will try to finish my Bounty project. Thanks Thanks, I once built about 60 of these models a year and had always about 100 kits in stock. After years and years, I felt like Charlie Chaplin on the assembly line in his movie Modern Times Said to myself: Backer, what are you doing, this is no longer a hobby. So, did a big clean up of all these models and made new cabinets to place them ( this took me 2 years...) And, start building something else. Now i build boats and a few military models.
  22. Baker
    Years ago I found some old ammunition in the ground (this is normal in this part of the world...) I tried to make the copper on my plastic Bounty look like this. (page 2 on the Bounty build)
  23. Baker
    Here we go again. The Bounty build is restarted, If everything goes according to plan, she will be ready this winter The yards are painted. And now i can start with the rigging. I had the idea of adding sails. But since my base plate looks like the bottom of some kind of dry dock this is not really appropriate. A ship with full sails in dry dock ... not good. So no sails or maybe furled sails. Welcome back
  24. Baker
    That's not good Fortunately, most tomatoes survived 🍅 And indeed, more wood for ship models
  25. Baker
    Finished Apply the decals Final painting job Glued on the base and a wash of diluted mat black Numbered The Stoewer Einheits Pkw. family. The 2 on the left are from the French company Al-by (resin) Looking at the numbers, these were built at least 25 years ago An ancestor of previous vehicles : The Stoewer M12 (build from parts of Hasegawa, Airfix and Esci) Basically a normal car "sawn" in 2 and extended Thanks for following, comments and likes.

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