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Tigersteve
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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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Some interesting updates to report. In what I call another placement reference photo, the gaff is rigged and the rope coil where the beads are threaded was made from black thread included with the kit. One additional tan rope coil needs to be added for the throat halyard before its final placement. The photo with the gaff in the vise shows the method I used for the seizing. I place a drop of CA where the knot will be located and then tighten the knot over the CA. Snip off the excess when the glue dries. The shroud pairs were seized around the mast using the method shown in the following photo. Final adjustments will be made before it's mounted permanently. Steve
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It's important to get off to a smooth start. Better than fighting with warped plywood. You can email them too. It's not always easy getting them on the phone. One man show over there. jgarcia@modelexpo-online.com
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Yes, sir. First build so I wanted to stick with as much of the kit supplied stock as possible. Steve
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It's been a while since I've redone something. So here it is- revised backstay pendents. Smaller seizings and a cleaner rope coil. Steve
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If it were me I would get replacements from them on all the sheets that are warped. I have this kit too in waiting. I'm sure there's other solutions. They are good with sending replacements. Might take a little time though. Steve
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Thank you, Per. I try not to use CA at all. Hate the stuff and it dries shiny, which is why I used it under the knot. I'm trying new things and learning a lot! Steve
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You will see a huge difference when that dries. Check other logs also of this build. Lots of useful tricks. Bob F has some impressive tutorials. Steve
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Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes. Shroud pairs are complete. Used a touch of CA on the rope and tightened the two overhand knots for each deadeye over the CA. This allowed me to work quickly and cut excess rope a little closer to the knot. I coated the assembly with diluted white glue. Again, the length of rope was taken from the rigging plan. They will be seized to the mast next. These photos show crazy detail, but it looks clean to the naked eye. Steve
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Looping myself in. Beautiful work. Steve
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Looks good! Steve
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It's coming along nicely. Steve
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Forestay deadeye is complete. Again, the length taken from the rigging plan. Two overhand knots were used for the seizing. I used mini clothspins for spacers. This will also be presented onboard in the rope coil shown in the photo. (It's much cleaner in person!) The remaining four deadeyes will be seized to the mast. Steve
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The backstay pendents make up the last of the blocks. I used brown rope for these, using the rigging plan to measure the length. These will be presented onboard the longboat in the rope coil you see in the photo. Roughly three hours of work. Steve
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That worked out nicely. Which parts of the build are maple? How is it working with the Maple? I would like to order some for my next project (English Pinnace). Steve
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Let's decide after she's planked;-) Forgive me- I haven't read all the previous posts thoroughly, but the waterline would be lower, correct? Just curious. If you do paint it, I think it would look better with the white starting lower. Not to debate anyone here. I really want to see it left unpainted though. Steve
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Thomas- you are setting the bar very high for anyone's Syren build. I'll say again that I'm really enjoying this log. Steve
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Erik- thanks again for sharing your methods. Nice jig! Steve
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If the planking turns out clean, which I think it will be in your case, I would like to see it left unpainted. Just my thoughts. Wish you well health wise. Steve
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Since you did light it, it would make sense to add a hidden motor to the wheel so it rotates. I know that takes pre planning, but if it's doable, that would be a cool feature. Either way it's awesome. Steve
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