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garyshipwright

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Posts posted by garyshipwright

  1. Thank you sir. Well long story short, on the draft, they can't print out any thing bigger then A4 and being that the ship draft is  a whole lot longer. They said I could get a computer print HD which I would have to down loaded and take it to the printers to blow it back up. That part is ok until they told me it was a 176 dollar's for the scan. I just cancel the order  think I just take the misses out for dinner. O well. Gary

  2. Hi Chuck. Have a couple of question on the stern timber's. Do you know what the round aft of those timbers are post to be and is all of the stern timber's at the bottom of them the same height where the go in to frame 29? I read through chapter 1 and couldn't find a answer so hoping some of the good folks along with your self may just have a answer to this. Looking for answer and is a whole lot easier adjusting  and fine turning them while they are lose.  In the mean time will look through some really good log's for answer's.  Thanks good sir. Gary

  3. Guys am selling my hog made by Vanda Lay. Run's like a champ and work's like a clock. Figure it was time for a up grade to the Byrnes thickness sander which has a 6 inch table and the hog only has a three inch table. If your interested send me a PM and we can talk about the price and shipping. Probably should have cleaned it up and that will be done if it finds a new home. Interest party's only please. Gary

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  4. Kurtis you can get the Anatomy of the ship Bellona from Abe books for about $30.  It says that it's used but looks to be in good shape.  A lot of those measurements come's from A book that Sea Watch has called Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805 by Allan Yedlinsky who is a member here on the site. Cost about $45. You might even see a few other books that could help you with your build. If you really want to get in to the how Vol one and two of the fully framed model HMN swan Class. Even through its a Sloops it breaks down all of the parts and pieces, giving the names of the timber's which will help you figure out your 74 and even show's how to figure out the head rails. Can't have enough info when it comes to those rail's. I could draw you a drawing of the head if need be and attached the measurements to it. Let me know. 

  5. well good sir it's a bit complicated, It seems to have taken me three tries making the  barrel, didn't like the darker color wood and then the next one my measurment were way off, don't know how that happen, guess I zigged insteads of zagging. For me it was the whelp's because they not only taper going up but taper going back. The other thing with them is trying to get the scores on the sides of them to line up with each other.  Then again I just might of made it complicated.  

  6. Hi Kurtis. The part that you talk about the runs completed through the ship is the keel. It did in fact taper from the middle to both ends being 18 inches squared in the middle,14" at the gripe and 12 1/2" at the forward edge of the rudder. The area where the crew took care of their business was a small deck which had seat's of ease, better known as toilets, and was called the beakhead . As far as finding out what the gripe in todays  dictionary, does not exist so what you need is a dictionary from the 18th century like Falconer Universal Dictionary of the Marine. Can't remember other one's but there out there.  I took a picture of the 74 gun ship Bellona which shows the parts of the knee of the head along with the other parts that make up the knee. Some thing about figure B3/2 at the top is the stem at it widest at the top and shows that it also get's tapered going down to the keel(item 1) . In front of the stem is the  knee of the head once it has been tapered.  Photo B3/2 show's a head on view of the taper from the stem- (item 3) to the  seat of the figure head ( item 16) . the taper also goes from the Gripe (Item 6) at the bottom of the knee  to the seat of the figure head( item 16)  I also added  another couple of photo's showing how the rail's was done. The photo's should help you and if you need any more info or just what a word means just let me know. When I started building them the biggest hurdle was figuring out what word went with what item of the ship. Thought I was going to go bonkers trying to figure them out. Gary

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  7. Hi Kurtis. Am not sure what information you have on the knee of the head but the place where the figure head set's is only 5". It tapers from the stem which is 1' 4 1/2" down to the 5 inch's. It also tapers from  the Gripe which is a part of the whole knee and is the lowest part which is attach to the front of the  keel  and is taper going up from 14"down to  5 inches where the figure head sit. If you don't show the taper it probably throw off the placement of the rail's. Hope am not stepping on any one toes but just wanting to help were I can. She looks great and wish I could do this type of work on the computer but am sort of the drafting table type guy. Do hope this is some help to you. Gary

  8. Well hello Mike. Been a while since we last talk and wonder what you been up to. You know you been working on Agamemnon as long as I can remember. Hoping with Chuck making a lot of the part's maybe just maybe I just might get her finish in a couple of years. Of course that also depends on the time  invested in working on Montague which may take just a little bit  longer. Have been keeping a eye on this build, waiting for Chuck to get far enough a head and a lot of the bug's worked out.  I must say he has done a heck of a job on this ship. Am sure that there are really great kits to build out there but have settled on this one. Another thing is the price of the build is broken down over time which makes it a lot easier to pay for with out the misses making me walk the plank. It's like  comparing it to  buying a set of expensive plans, cost a lot but when you break them down for the amount of time it take's you to build it it like pennies on the dollar,  It should be interesting and  lot of fun to build.

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