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texxn5

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Everything posted by texxn5

  1. texxn5
    Hi MIke, I'm not real sure, but you might try sanding it rather than stripping. I'm not too sure you can strip acrylic with making a huge mess. Sanding might smooth it the way you want, and then you can repaint it to cover up the sanding marks. Might be worth a try. John
  2. texxn5
    Very interesting thread. The thing I used the most throughout the build was a good set of digital calipers and a steel cork bottomed ruler that reads both metric and inches. Secondly, as my model (Charles W Morgan) progressed I found needs for a good versatile small vise and at least a very good tight tolerance drill press or mill. A miniature wood lathe and accessories were used once the planking was done. PM me when you think you might need some power tools and I'll make you a good price. Great ship model choice, one I've dreamed about building but have no room. Enjoy John PS, sorry, I'm a Proxxon Dealer, click on my link if interested
  3. texxn5
    Frustration with all of this is real and it sucks, but the end result and reward will be worth any of this. It won't be long before everything will be scratch built and you won't have to deal with this petty stuff that drives you nuts. Just plan ahead and make sure you have sufficient parts and aren't missing anything else so that you don't have to deal with MS anymore. I had problems but they eventually got resolved, it's just those 3-4 week delays that frustrate you. Glad you're hangin' in Mate, John
  4. texxn5
    Looking good Mike. Havin' fun yet?? She's shaping up...
  5. texxn5
    jOE PLEASE DON'T GIVE UP. Joe, please don't give up. These parts appear to be the Plankshear. Use them for spacing of your stanchions, but please look at my Build Log Part I to see how I handled the Plankshear when I didn't like how it turned out. It is easily corrected. As Commodore Perry said: Don't Give Up the Ship! My website shows how to deal with this problem, and it really doesn't matter that it is broken. Just my two cents...but you have too much invested and this is not really a problem. John
  6. texxn5
    Hi Joe, man that sucks. Sorry to see that - not much of an excuse is it? You could probably make those work, but it's your choice - don't let that discourage you since about 95% of this build is by scratch. You can probably glue the pieces together and really not know the difference. It get's real discouraging, and unfortunately reflects back on the company MS, not only time but frustration. Good luck with your choices on what to do next. Sorry again to see this... John
  7. texxn5
    What's your scale?
  8. texxn5
    Happy Birthday Bruce.....many, many more!
  9. texxn5
    Hello, should you continue to have problems please contact me as I am a Proxxon Distributor and I can arrange for it to be returned for warranty service. Just let me know. John
  10. texxn5
    Yeah, it's in a blue can comes in quarts. I was mistaken about the manufacturer - pulled it off the top of my head - should know better. I just found the can and my apologies again, it looks about the same as your finished product, however it is called "Water-borne, Polystain - Stain and Polyurethane All in One"..... it's color is Maple Satin Finish 8261. Sorry 'bout that. It still worked very well for me.
  11. texxn5
    Nice build, I look forward to following along on this one. Should be a very rewarding build.
  12. texxn5
    Yeah, I used an acrylic natural stain with the acrylic satin varnish combined in the same can (came that way) on the deck of my Morgan. It's by Minwax, and I loved it as well as it looked good. Good choice and good job. John
  13. texxn5
    The "Natural" colored stains really reflect a nice finish especially with a satin finish clear varnish. Looks really good Mike, you're moving right along.
  14. texxn5
    Technology - what a difference 20-30 years make
  15. texxn5
    Looking really good. Moving right along with this.
  16. texxn5
    Looks like a fun project...very nice Nigel
  17. texxn5
    Luck always trumps skill....glad you got the result you wanted and that you're happy - Capn' happy crew happy!....sorry you didn't get an answer, probably the weekend traffic being low.. John
  18. texxn5
    Such a magnificent ship, and you're making her look majestic and gorgeous. Beautiful job. John
  19. texxn5
    Hello Art, this is a very good question. I have investigated both models, and recently finished the Charles W Morgan which has 7 whaleboats. I have a good library on whaleboats. There were many variations of these boats as they were basically expendable. The Model Shipways to me seems to be the best choice, and the details are up to you as to how detailed you want to build it. I have a section on whaleboats on my website with a page called "New Bedford Whaleboats" and also a build log from another modeler who is building the MS model. Personally, I would go with the Model Shipways, and it is built in the USA. Check my website: http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com John
  20. texxn5
    I love the Victory, and you are representing her very well here. I'll be following along for the rest of the build. Keep it u[ - outstanding! John
  21. texxn5
    Wow Glenn, very impressive. I'd love to be able to handle the machine tools for building something like this. Is it possible to stop by some time and view this magnificent build? I live about 30 minutes from College Station, and sometimes the Admiral and I venture up there to see an old friend (former Aggie 102 years old). He was a Petroleum Engr., and I think even has a building named for him - name is Mike Dillingham. We also like Abuelo's which is main reason we go there. It gives us a chance to take the little red car for an afternoon venture. I'll be following this log...great! John
  22. texxn5
    Hello Nenad, our sympathies and prayers go out to you and your family as well. John
  23. texxn5
    Looks good Mike, things are shaping up. I returned your PM earlier, let me hear from you and I can get some things together for you. John
  24. texxn5
    Great job - congrats John
  25. texxn5
    Fortunately, I needed very little filler. Where I did, I used Testor's Contour Putty (gray tube). It dried fast and sanded easy. The other thing was that MS Primer was extremely thick. So when I primed the area, it filled the gaps nicely and retained the plank shapes defining them nicely. It also sanded easily. My only problem was that MS's paints do leave brush marks, and the primer wasn't that easy to completely cover sometimes taking 3 coats, but overall I was pleased with the outcome. John

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