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cog

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Everything posted by cog

  1. cog
    de nada
  2. cog
    A so you are building/printing the new version RGL, Popeye, and me are building ... Glad I haven't missed a lot, the printer isn't as fast I my slow displacement Interesting build though. Never thought about replacing parts of a resin build to either improve or build another model.
  3. cog
    Those may be small improvements, but the make her look good
  4. cog
    I like the way your aft funnel turned out! I'll be trying my hand on that one pritty soon. I've got enough left of that, I'll be replacing the reels with leftovers, Nice PE alternative for that life raft platform. Was thinking amongst the same line. I'll be using 0.5mm brass rod, as well for the supports of the gun platforms.
  5. cog
    Put on the propeller units, or whatever you call them in English. Replaced the propellor shafts with brass rod A lot more fun to this kit than I thought! Quite a challenge
  6. cog
    Today's minor progress: Drilled the portholes (didn't count them) which went reasonably fast Mounted the vents, all nine of them, a pain to get them cleaned up, drilled the holes to get them fixed Forward paravane cradles (big word for such a small piece of plastic) Some squarish block, which I suspect is an air inlet for the engines Put together the rear and front 102mm gun platforms and the connecting bridge, forard platform needs some attention (putty - second image) working on the rear mast, making it from bras rod 0.5mm and tubing 1mm (last image)
  7. cog
    Since you asked Greg, I won't answer, Sam
  8. cog
    I know Lou ... ours won't fit, besides the fact that she will rip it to shreds, but Gibbs will, until Dennis gets "Isolation"
  9. cog
    Last image on the right, the thingy with the litte door ...
  10. cog
    Got used to it, thanks to you, Sam Now I know why I got those Fokker Dr 1's lined up ... How come you don't join in the fun Sam!?
  11. cog
    "Didn't you remember honey ...?"
  12. cog
    I see you've got your own bench Never a dull moment in your shipyard ... you seem to hop, skip, and jump from one model to another ... It would drive me crazy ... I only have to switch between Musashi, HMAS Vendetta, two 1/700 tiny nip subs, 2 1/72 Fokker Dr1's, and a 1/48 Fokker Dr 1 ... besides all the other things to do(!) By the way, I like the colours. Did you ever try a different type of masking tape ...could solve the problem of your bleeding all over the hull
  13. cog
    Nice job John, well worth the front row seat.
  14. cog
    Sounds nasty! Africa, Asia, Middle East, South America ... you've got enough choice, but the people to join in ...
  15. cog
    Yes it is. Wonderful work, Amalio. You keep amazing me with your sharp details, and very smooth wood surfaces
  16. cog
    Don't you need your beauty sleep, mate. You'll be finished before the US has it's kit delivered, even with all the kit bashing you're doing!!! Hello Dave, It's becoming quite an Aussie gathering ... (I'm still missing a.o. Mr "Vulture" Vadas) Fun indeed, something like your class' project building a plastic kit if I recall well ...
  17. cog
    Evenin' RGL, Did you get the "old" tool? My deck parts fit rather good. It seems macro photography is required to show mismatches and other wondrous events ... At the tail end you've been sanding rather severely RGL, that might be the reason parts do not line up the way they're supposed to. I've been using a fine sanding stick and 1500P grid sandpaper to get those injection port dimples off. I had a problem with the bilge keels, quite difficult to fit as the points to attach them are hardly visible on the part itself, and on the hull there are three somewhat undefined dents. Could be improved upon, but probably due to the size of the ship. P.s. I like the base you have for her ... colourful!
  18. cog
    First steps: Taking parts from their frets, cleaning them up, and dry fitting ALthough it's a 1:350 model, it is small, especially compared to the Tamiya kit I've been working on. The details are pritty good, fitting of pieces is beyond what I expected. The minor thing about it in my eyes are the number of points with which parts are attached to the fret, a lot of cleaning to do
  19. cog
    Ken, Why not have a go at it ...? As an old time railroader you should be grand at it!
  20. cog
    You can use aluminum foil to seal parts where light is protruding
  21. cog
    Not much bending to do what I've seen for PE. Stair handrails, which you can do with flat pliers. I think a PE tool would be an overkill for the bending you'll do on this one. I would advise you to buy one for e.q. a 1:350 Hood, or Yamato, but for this one ... nah, no realy I've decided on the pre WWI, mebby I buy another one and do the WWI also. Although, I've got that monster on the table too
  22. cog
    You still can make a diorama with a cutaway model, why not. First get her into the cutaway shape you want, you can always fit here into a diorama ... besides, once you have her like you want, it is easier to picture her in a fitting surrounding
  23. cog
    Just to show you, I've got the same kit ... There is a paint scheme in the box included, Popeye. You'll need to convert to the enamel brand you're using Hope you can find some if not all in your stash
  24. cog
    John, I don't know about specific RAN models, but you can make quite a few based on their British counter parts, which are available. Here is a discussion on it. Greg will probably know more on the subject
  25. cog
    Hello Mark, A bit less noise whilst crunching, I'm trying to concentrate Dunno, on what, but it did sound rather nice when I first wrote it Welcome to the multiple-build Nearly forgot, Dennis. If you use acrylics, prime first. As many before me, I switched to Tamiya rattle cans, they do have a small bottle of their ptimer too, for acrylics do not adhere to well on plastic and brass ... once primed, it doesn't matter to much what you spray, or smear on the parts ... if I think about something else, I'll just post it. Cheers

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