Vladimir_Wairoa

Thank you everyone. 

@rwiederrich I did intended but the moment I setup the length without jibboom I realized it was merely a sweet dream. maybe foolish one: D

Wrap.

Dear fellow Builders,

there is no prettier object in the earth than boat lines....for us....i know ladies would be protesting but ...we know  thee is no point in  arguing im closing the cathedral of the oceans. first, Id sincerely like to thank you All, that watched, looked, commented, liked my build. I would most likely not finished it otherwise.

I am amateur violinmaker, that once told myself i will try to model cutty. Having thought of myself, it cannot be more difficult than violinmaking. what is art of ship modeling? where that art lies? I had to try it having had only one attempt of halfbuilt hms terror in the pocket,/ and no other small ship whatsover /  i looked at cutty sark bow pamous pic  wharving at sydney quay...and told myself, that would do. - wrong. it is far more difficult than i thought it will be....

I did not know what i will step into....where will i go. hull went smooth, unless, one cannot miss small part of modelbuilding even  in huge projects....

looked at small models of it, I tried to do someting different, than just another 1.96 cutty sark, I wanted to smell the more realistic details of the deck. If i was told to do it again I would certainly back off. w hy? because i know now what is to dvelve into mere 3000 hours of repairs. I need to mention the way I worked. It was not up down process than designer set out plans and hand work down to workers , carpenters and so on rpecise instruction clearly having in mind what process would look like etc. even material. I mean ship modeling surely is up- down process as there is plan to be fullfilled and rather closely than vaguely for the saek of reault. but as aome cathedral in the past were (to peoples astonishment when they realize) built without an architect following rather bottom up rule - I built up closer to this approach. as thought or idea sprung, or someone led me to some direction there was not clear from start what would deckhouses looked exactly like - it went various ways some mistaken and had to be reversed. some good some totally wrong that had to be scrapped from start. experienced builders know by expecience what works for them. i have to find my own paths as well...slowly  I dreamt with her I had to watch her in my room even I did not wish to ....:) she was in my way to the desk, to my wardrobe. she is hell of a MONSTER. but she has  tender lines in her. She is crippled from the bottom and even more cut off from the top. but if i managed to get her body, she would shine even crippled diorama

Wise people dont make mistakes of fools, as saying goes, they learn that is better to make 12 small models to know what is it to build one big one. seems i am not one of them. I soak myself with troubles and try to skirmish away from abbys with some grace. it is not always possible but i know one think.

i hated her during process I sweared even, but i was the wrong for whats count. I repaired almost everything unill satisfaciton. I learned a tons. I will go SMALLER next definitely. I carved as I loved her. I wanted to see her shine despite my lack of craft. I gave the most of my abilities to her I possibly could. and for that reason I am satisfied whatever the flaw. she is not perfect by any mean. her butt is approx 2 cm narrower that plan is telling, but I dont mind even I can tell the curve of her butt from memory even in midnight....e.g. revell model is horribly wrong in this direction and possible other makers as well..

.She does not have rear companionway as I deliberately did not want to make it. she does not have rudder finished as I dont have strenght nor material to do it properly. she is ready to be fully masted if someone ever desired so. who knows. Her steel bulwark is sound and strong. there is lot to critisize. I dont know whether I managed to create the charm she has.

Others must tell. For what I know, I gave her all I have in my abilities. there is never another time.... I need rest. I am eager to build small boats like, whaleboat, or cutters or so before I start way smaller and hopefully better that this - Glory of the Seas.  

I must say, for me  it was definitely more difficult than to make good sounding violins. I have both to prove now thank you . im posting some pics and will make a small gallery. you can feel im glad it is over. True. I just tasted of some masting and rigging and full masting and rigging of such giant would take another 2 years or so. I must asy though I regret not seeing her under sails though. but she is way too big for that. SO i have to stick with whats there hope you enjoyed it as I did. Whats most important? I did not loose interest of shipmodeling, quite contrary... thanks Vlad.

I am adding some more pics I found... around spring of this year.

as I wanted to mainain relative lightweight of the ship, and tried to stiffen whole construction I installed some wooden bits to the sfkeleton from the bottom, so they work together to both directions of the installment and add overall stiffness to the boat, leaving it relatively light. skeleton is made of pine which remain lightweight well, i did not weight it. mass of wood on deck added up and butt is heavier of course...being solid.  as 2 adults lift the boat i would suffest of some 50 kilograms entire built boat. i will will weigh her probably at some point out of curiosity...:)

17 hours ago, the learner said:

Post 141, 1st picture, what material did you use for mast boot. 

Hello, good question thanks. there is an 10 mm thick and  maybe 15 cm long iron rod installed in mast bottom to fit the hole drilled into bulkhead . i will try to find photo. its different instalment of two other masts but  pretty much solid to withstand entire rigging if ever continued  

So, unfortunately i did not photographed all process, but i found leftover from rod, and will try to explain. Mast itself is of beech wood which is stiff itself and there would not need to be any outer protections against potential  cracking speaking of rigging. Its strength would withstand any possible  rigging tensions  itself perfectly. ( speakig of model of course)  I however secured it just in case of  any horrifying cape horn roaring 60 ties by bronze cap.

You can see from pics. 8 mm steel rod bored  into mast bottom about 10 cm length into. Than i secured some 2 mm thick solid bronze cap to the outer shape of mast  to prevent any tensions and potential cracks. After i simply bored mast into predrilled hole in bulkhead. As you can see from post 144 That is secure as hell because in sipte bulkhead is inly 24 mm thick in fore - aft direction - center of bulkhead where is hole is ineed  shuffled into centerline  wood-)which it pretty much secures agsinst longitudal tensions and left right tensions are negligible from crack also  because bulkhead is 200 mm solid in that direction. In case of curiosity, as you can see mast and bulkheads are approx 24 mm thick and rod is about  8 mm so there is plenty of solid surface around to keep it firmly in place. 

Thanks for asking V.

i now see your mastering in painting Bruma, i like very much what are you doing with revel model. Vlad

17 hours ago, Mike_In_RI said:

Hi Mario, thank you very much for the encouragement. Just today I was looking at your very sharp and clean whaleboat. I really like your use of different woods as well.

 

I have slowed down some in the last few weeks when I didn't get the look that I wanted from the .045" whale line. It just seems too pudgy to me as they sit on the harpoons. In any case I ordered a Rope Rocket from Syren and today ordered assorted threads for experimentation. I'm trying to get as much scale into the project as I can so I'll attempt to get the line a little thinner and a more "bright straw" color. I hope the learning curve isn't too long! In the meantime I put some time into the steering oar brace chaff mat: (somehow all my shots are smaller ..??..)

 

 

... trying out the look of a "sword mat". Ashley #2964

 

 

The oar lock lanyards and the shroud lines are in as well as the trip line and steering oar strop.

 

 

The strop covering is a piece of shrink tube painted with a little burnt umber. 

 

Comments, corrections and suggestions are always welcome.

Mike

 

im coming to learn Sir, Splendid.  

On 9/12/2020 at 6:53 PM, archjofo said:

Hello,

the first of these blocks was attached to the main shrouds. 
As an aid I used a wooden strip which was covered with a double-sided adhesive tape.
Nevertheless it is a very difficult job to tie up these tiny pieces with Japanese silk yarn.

 

 

Archjofo, Beyond words , fantastic 

what a Beauty Pete, absolute first class. congratulation. V. 

Mario this is my go to model im watching. interesting aporoach with plastic cup, hovewer i would not go that route  neat details for sure. go on. Vlad 

congratulations Eric. She is really beautiful you should be proud. Vlad. 

On 9/7/2020 at 10:35 PM, mbp521 said:

Hello again everyone,

 

Work has begun on the boiler room walls this go round. 

 

So I finally decided that in order to show the interior of this model, I am going to leave one side partially open and complete the exterior of the other. In order to show some of the details I will also be installing LED lighting hidden behind lanterns and such.

 

I took some ideas from the St. Louis build on how the boiler room walls were constructed. Since none of these walls survived the salvage and the plans are pretty vague on the true construction, builders liberties were taken in my interpretation of them. I installed louvered windows around the boiler walls, under the assumption that these were used for cooling and warming purposes. Air flow from the forward gun ports and funnels mounted on top pf the Hurricane deck was forced down to the gun deck, through the louvers and up through the skylights. Again, this is just my assumption as to how this worked, and I could totally be off base with this.

 

Rough sketched plans of the fore and aft walls used as a template for the louvers.

 

Bottom framework of the walls.

 

Construction of the windows.

 

Forward and aft wall in place.

 

Construction of the starboard windows.

 

Starboard windows in place.

 

 

Coat of white paint and the boilers set in place to get a view of what it will all look like.

 

 

 

 

Not much else was done. I have been dividing my time with other projects around the house, trying to take advantage of a few cooler days. I have some micro LED's and 3-D printed lanterns on order for the lighting, hope fully those will be in some time this week and I can get started on the lighting and wiring.

 

That's all for now. Enjoy, and thanks for the kind comments and likes.

 

-Brian

fantastic Brian . like it very much  Vlad 

On 9/11/2020 at 12:57 AM, ClipperFan said:

In further efforts to locate as of yet unseen images of "Glory of the Seas" I found another image of her Bow, the same one from 1900 but this allowed me to do a compressed jpeg file, which yielded a larger, more clear picture.

The other Clipper is a Starboard view of William Webb's most famous Clipper "Young America." This particular scene I've never seen before. It clearly shows her unique trailboard of a seated Lady Liberty resting between two furled American flags at her Starboard Bow. Her Port Bow had an entirely different trailboard design. I just thought you guys might appreciate seeing these.

her bow is so beautiful isnt it .  

17 hours ago, vaddoc said:

Vlad, I ve only just managed to catch up with your progress, you are doing a fantastic job, both your deck and your boats came out great. Some of your photos are truly amazing. You are clearly having too much fun! 

Thanks for stopping by and leaving nice words vaddoc. i did enjoy it true. i must have.  i know this scale of such monster was only once in a lifetime occasion so i had to give her everything whats left from my abilities. and even more    . but sometimes other point to some  some trick or direction that betters thing up and so on for which i am really thankful  

always pleasure to look here vaddoc. new boat is being raised up to shape. hoorah! thanks fo sharing the process as well, it is really helpful. very nice, happy continuation.  Vlad. i can see familiar chisel name :)) and jig is no 1! 

1 hour ago, Bruma said:

I'm so happy you try it! 
That's a huge improvement! Now your carving job is properly enhanced, well done!
You really nailed the technique at your first try, it is very important to build it up layer by layer. 
Now you did the first step: why don't you go further and try the same method on the hull with a medium gray? All the bolts, rivets and small detail will pop up, and if you don't like it, you can go back! 
I like to use oil colors, they give you a lot of control, they are soft ad they dry slowly, so that you can really tune the effect. 
Remember to make some test on spare parts first! 
And after the dry brush, you will feel the need for washes and filters and you will never come back! 

 

 i havent thought of that. well i would maybe rather see the outcome on other hull at first  as I dont have idea what i would want to achieve. should it be like rust ? or glow? aeging ?  i have plenty of rivets to try on on hull though. do you have such example of please?  anyway massive thanks Bruma. 

Just now, Keithbrad80 said:

Hello again!

 

Thanks to BobG I realized my scale may be way off and things may need to be readjusted. Thankfully because i started with the Garboard and belt A, i can play around with a few ideas that i have because ultimately this area of the ship will be covered with copper. 

 

For any one who is considering using toothpicks for their treenails one thing to consider is that because they come to a conical point, any deviation in pressure when driving them in will result in a different size treenail when you sand every thing down. I added a picture that hopefully shows what I’m talking about, this is just another reason I’m happy Ill be wrapping this part in copper and that people like Bob have great advise. 

 

Bradley

very nice progress along stem and with treenaisl Bradley. 

1 hour ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

many Thanks for advice on dry brush Bruma, i will dvelve into it. the carved ones stay.  V. 

19 hours ago, Bruma said:

I prefer the carved one! 

For painting them you might consider some dry bruh in gold to highlight the details and add a little bit more of depth. 

Wonderful job on the boat and on the platform, I really like the result! 

Is the rigging of the davits complete? If so, it would be nice to add tension to some of those lines in my opinion. 

Keep going! 

Hi Bruma. I did try it. Massive Thank you! I will post you probably love emoticon as you pointed me to dry brush method and helped to enhance the hard effort of carving

. I knew there was somethijg missing in it, something very important. I looked into it and the mwthod is fabulous. It consist of building up layers upon layers of tiny amount of gold or metallic color with pointing of brush rather than strokes. Always from tiny portion up not otgerwise. I believe it paid off hansomely. It enhanced carved relief that stepped even more out of black surface behing. At this point it is more than adequate i think. What do you think? 

18 hours ago, Bruma said:

Cirdan, you are too kind, I really appreciate you comment, thank you!

 

 

 

Thank you Shipman for pointing it out.

This feature is one of the many differences visible between the Underhill plans (included inside the Longridge book dedicated to the Cutty Sark) and the Campbell’s plans. Campbell shows a short companion way, while Underhill present the version proposed by Revell.

It would be nice to know what were the references used by Revell, they seem to be a mix of both.

 

 

Bowsprit reinforcement and installation, railing, stern and bow decoration.

 

 

The bowsprit is quite weak. The innermost part is provided in two pieces, while the outermost spar is in one piece as shown below:

 

 

The junction is the weak point. Hoping to improve a bit this point I added some sprue inside the cavity, drilled holes inside the two pieces (gray and brown in the picture) and inserted a piece of spring steel inside.

 

 

The result is far from being perfect but at least it’s better than before.

 

 

 

Railing:

The instruction suggest to use thread for the railing but I don’t like this solution. I opted instead for thin copper wire, twisted around the poles and painted in white.

Looking back at the result I’m just half happy: the rail are not that bad, but the poles provided by the kit looks too fat, I should have cut them from the base and rebuild them from scratch…

Anyway, they are there and now it’s too late to correct them.

This is a picture of the bow railing during the installation and painting process:

 

 

and here you can see the same piece installed:

 

 

 

In the above picture the home made handropes and relative eyebolts on the bowsprit are also visible. This feature is omitted by the kit but it’s easy to scratch build and worth to be added.

 

Decorations.

For the bow and stern decoration, the kit provide decals. I don’t like them, and so I searched for photo etched parts.

The photo etched plate includes decoration on both sides and the Cutty sark name on the wheel box.

The application was a bit challenging since I don’t want to have CA glue all over the places, but the end result is not that bad and I think they add some nice details.

Here they are for the stern:

 

 

 

Unfortunately the railing suffer some bending, fixed later on…

 

And here the bow:

 

 

The forked outrigger visible in this picture is the one provided by the kit but it is out of scale and it was replaced with a scratch build one later on.

 

That’s all again.

Thank you all for your attention!

 

 

nicely done Bruma. superb. Vlad  

17 hours ago, Bruma said:

I prefer the carved one! 

For painting them you might consider some dry bruh in gold to highlight the details and add a little bit more of depth. 

Wonderful job on the boat and on the platform, I really like the result! 

Is the rigging of the davits complete? If so, it would be nice to add tension to some of those lines in my opinion. 

Keep going! 

many Thanks for advice on dry brush Bruma, i will dvelve into it. the carved ones stay.  V. 

Little amusing details.

(So Still ongoing)..... How is everyone? Im posting sime recent detailing work along lifeboats platform. I  decided deliberately to sit platform on cabin roof instead of letting it little higher and I secured it with curved rod endings eyes for middle boat. Thin legs supporting it are simply not fastened on bottom side as firm to keep all platform and boats firmly, now its okish.  then various works on boats related...rudder is not completed yet... ..thank you very much for the look. Vlad. 

53 minutes ago, MartinB said:

Hi Vlad,

 

The carved (3D) one is much better, more realistic, and more suited to a model of your size. Even without gold paint.

But maybe consider to make it a bit more gold somehow, highlight it maybe?

 

Cheers,

Martin

Hi Martin , thanks, opinion much appreciated.  V. 

Dilemma. 

Good morning gentlemen. 

I have dilemma to solve. Which one would you opted  for final mount of cheeks ornamensts? I ended up having two , liking both diferently. At some point i like and value carved much more because of difficulty time and skill it endured , and being 3D yet not being gold colored and not detailed to the point of complete  realism another just gold  painted 2dimensional one possess...im a bit scared to paint carved one though. Which would you pick if it were you ?

Thanks a lot  for any opinion. Vlad .

3 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Thank you to all for the likes and wonderful comments. The support of the MSW community helps to keep me going in those wee hours when nothing goes right.

 

I had a devil of a time making an acceptable carriage pattern, one that not only captured the essence of an actual carriage but also makable. I've dry fitted the barrels to the raw carriages for fit and form, I think I'm on the right track. Now to dismantle paint and add all the carriage components. 

this is lovely .superb.

Nice progress Bradley, looking fwd to the continuation. shape is emerging nicely. V

10 hours ago, Bruma said:

I completely understand your point. Thank you for clarifying the correct shapes on the deck planking.
As I am experiencing by myself, ship building is a long process and it can get boring from time to time.
Again, mine was not meant to be a critique to your great built!

Bruma fyi I appreciate constructive criticism maybe more than anything:) as likes are not correcting my mistakes but criticism would  at this point i know this was largest ship i will ever build so im now thankful that i cannot make full rigging. that would be probably few years to come. im determined to wrap in 1 week  thanks for valuable comment. V.