Vladimir_Wairoa

Good day everyone, 

Im posting some updates from last twoo weeks. There is proper flooring completed on all decks at this point, I aimed for symetry of bibbing on forecastle deck. I installed new sheer and painted proper "cemented dark grey strake stands are moored into, i quite like what it looks like after i twisted metal sheet to prpoper topraip curvature facing outwards. ...i need to fill bowsprit / floor gap though...  also showing how did i worked on forecastle from start to finish. Poop deck floor is properly curved along the gangway...and met in center/ probably not like prototype but...well...Toilets have dark paneling as seen on famous picture of cutty moored at melbourne wharf. 

I see now that proper decking is probably one of most essential parts of boats designing / structural and functional object covering vast amount of space in ship. It looks majestic now..

 From now on I will install functional machinery, etc....i have still work on remaining 2 rowboats ongoing, capitain gig and dinghy. so that will come further. This time i will try to put on the floor osmo top finish that should not color the floor. Willl see the outcome. Many thanks for watch etc... V. 

4 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Man she is looking great...your corrections are doing the trick.

I worked on cutting out the first two bulkheads..1 and 2 anf

d fared them out.  1 is glued in place on the keel/stem but the rest will be left mobile so I can make adjustments and corrections.  I wanted to get everything going so I could see 3D and actually make corrections or additions now as she is being built.  Everything is baseline and can be modified if need be.  The *beak* of hood is deliberately short so the actual member can fit over.

 

Moving along.

 

Rob

woohoo . fantastic. did you incorporate more angled less straight  bow angle Rob? I will start my own somewere around winter. i need break after cutty. meanwhile i take first row seat. happy continuation.V. 

12 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

Yeah...her entry is still very sharp so I will be making mods to the bulkheads as I lay them up on the keel.  Currently, I have to clean up the wood shop a bit(been working on telescope stuff) before I glue the bulkhead sheets to the plywood...prior to cutting.  I'm gonna do this exactly like I did the Great Republic.  Once laid out and glued...I'll section off the bulkheads and then cut them out.  During this time I will have to plain down the maple I will be using for the keel and stem and the bow sections.  I will NOT be building this like the boys over in the Young America logs....They are building their fine models in exact manner as the prototypes.

Not me...I'm a *Hack* modeler...all I'm concerned with is the end results.

 

So what will the scale be if I make her 40" long?

 

Rob

it is 1:75 Rob.  nice scale. 

cant wait to see the keel laid out Rob ; all of a sudden Glory woudl be most build vessel  

8 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Beautiful 

Thank you Rob, V. 

On 11/4/2017 at 9:51 AM, hof00 said:

Hi All,

A Mock-Up....

Progress? I think the "Tear Down" has been worthwhile thus far.

Looks like a bit like a Christmas Tree....

I guess this is soon the time of year.

 

LED installed in Deck House/Engine Room (High Intensity LED's Not Cheap!!)

Installed also in the Wheelhouse and "Navigation" lights

 

Mast Lights will come eventually, wiring installed.

 

I'll drill out the Nav' and Masthead Lights to accept the LED's 

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

this is lovely  

On 6/28/2020 at 11:50 PM, PJG said:

Thwart risers, some interior painting and ceiling planks:

 

I made one easily avoidable mistake here that careful reading of the plans and instruction book could have prevented. The thwart risers are intended to be slightly thicker than the ceiling planks that start under them but I failed to take note of this and used the same thickness of material. I’ve noticed this in several other builds so I can see that it’s an easy detail to miss. If I had realized this before installing the thwarts themselves I would have added a thin strip to fake the extra thickness. Oh well, another lesson learned. The ceiling planks went on mostly without a hitch other than having to improvise some hidden support here and there where a plank ended and the frame it was supposed to terminate on happened to be somewhere else. The great frame disaster strikes again! I added the first coat of paint before installing the ceiling planks but added some weathering later when I had a better feel for the overall color scheme. 

 

 

I decided to go with a dark blue/grey for the interior of the hull, thwarts and risers. These areas will be weathered to a lighter, sun-faded color eventually but my overall color scheme will be dark blue, black, various shades of grays, and white. Nobody seems to be able to pinpoint any particular combination of colors beyond the primer coats new boats were delivered with so I did my own thing. Given the jobs these boats were designed to do and the relatively short lives they were expected to do it in, I concluded that utility was probably much higher on the list than adventures on the color wheel. Distinguishing your boat from that of another ship seems to be a reasonable criteria when considering  how colors were chosen. 

 

 

I installed the first ceiling plank with the light gray paint I intended to use on those to get some sense of how the scheme would work. I knew everything would be toned down considerably with a little weathering so I settled on my choices. 

 

 

Before the ceiling planks could be installed in the bottom of the boat the centerboard case and mast step needed to be added. Painting these the dark blue rather than gray was probably something that would have been considered a waste of time in a real boat but I liked the contrast and the fact that they were installed before the ceiling on the real thing made it somewhat plausible. I didn't use fasteners on this build so I made a test of simulating nails with paint early on. I didn't think these looked overly convincing so I ended up scraping them away with a sharp blade and using a simple number 2 pencil instead. With a little weathering I thought the results were much better. 

 

 

 

With the ceiling complete and some subtle weathering applied (in my opinion) I was satisfied to move on to test-fitting the thwarts.

 

 

With the interior mostly complete and painted, all 5 thwarts were fitted in position as per the plans. According to Ronnberg's book, the bow and stern sheets weren't painted so I resisted making them light gray. As you can see, the forward-most thwart ended up with a misplaced frame right in the middle. It should have rested between two frames. I could have moved the thwart forward and maybe gotten away with it but I decided to stick to plans from this point forward no matter what. The great frame disaster strikes again! 

 

 

 

 

 

Fast-forward and a whole bunch of other interior details get done! All of this work took several months to complete. Carving the cheek pieces, bow chocks, loggerhead, oar locks, peak cleats and various other parts was time-consuming and educational. I thought carving was going to be my achilles heel but turned out to be something I rather enjoyed. If a particular step/activity seems intimidating, just give it a shot. You may discover you had nothing to be afraid of. 

sooo fantastic build im thrilled wonderful explanation etc. i love model shipways but i onow myself how difficult is to build clinker and so on. so very detailed so realistic and nice. thanks fro sharing fantastic. i think i will try her once. oh treat for eyes .

Welcome to the cutty fanatics crowd here  happy continuation. Vlad 

Duanelaker, im enjoying this build will follow. Vlad. 

 most beautiful build indeed. what an unusual interesting ship.  . V. 

Fingers crossed Devildog. its fine you will fugure it. definitely better to steam planks so you can bend them at critical points around stern. and there is wood filler after all so nothing to be worry about  well done. filler might be definite advantage if you want perfect hull. but nothing necessary.  without it you may dill it up with file

r after done and sand to perfect shape and after paint or if you want another( thinner)  layer of planks its up to you   -  what helped me was always putting one plank over bulkheads to check if they lay perfectly on so they can be glued - i also sand bulkheafs dame way. with longer srick of wood with sanding paper on. so make sure sanding paper goes always thru at least 2 bulkheads and it will sand off exact amount ...:) well done. Vlad. 

9 minutes ago, bolin said:

You are both very welcome Tom and Vladimir.

 

I do have some other clinker builds that I would like to try, and this will be a step in improving my skills.

 

The wood i selected for this model is European Lime wood. That the color is rater similar to pine, which is the typical wood of the original ships, was one reason. It's also rather soft and easy to work with only hand tools. I have read that yellow cedar is an excellent wood for modelling, but I think its hard to get here in Europe.

 

The keel is actually not lime wood, but Obechi. I needed a piece with 10 x 10 cross section to carve the keel, an the supplier only had Lime wood up to 8 x 8 mm. Obechi is also soft and easy to carve, and the color is very similar to Lime wood.

i am big fan of clinker myself so will watch eagerly. good luck V. 

On 1/2/2018 at 2:19 PM, Gregor said:

As La Topaze has no cover for her spars and oars, I had to make them in order to lash them down beside the cutter – so I made the complete set.

 

 

There are still some details missing (pumps, decorations). But the next step will be a simple one: a chimney for Topaze’s galley.

 

I wish you all a happy New Year!

Gregor

one of the most beautiful work i ever seen ! following . 

9 hours ago, archjofo said:

@giampieroricci

That's really a very nice compliment. 
Thank you for it.
I also admire your wonderful models.

 

It is always a pleasure to see that there is still interest in my report because of the many LIKES.

I am pleased.

After a little excursion to the anchors i continue with the shrouds for the mizzen mast. 
So in the first step the lower shrouds were aligned.
Afterwards I start with securing the lanyards. 

 

fantastic  

On 8/11/2020 at 12:10 AM, mbp521 said:

Hello again everyone,

 

Update time.

 

So it's been a pretty productive week, I started working on the boiler.

 

First thing I did was cut five 3/4" dowels, 6" long for the boiler tubes. To simulate the rivets, I used some aluminum foil tape I had laying around. Using a ponce wheel, I ran the wheel on the paper side to give the 3-dimensional look of the rivets. I then cut these into strips and wrapped them around the boiler tubes.

 

Simulating the rivets.

 

Strips wrapped around the tubes.

 

It was at this point that I figured out that I was going about this all wrong. I was making this way too hard on myself. So after rethinking the process, I decided to just wrap the entire boiler tube with the tape and create all the rivets at once.

 

This was the result.

 

Much easier and quicker. Next step was to create the steam drum using the same wrapping process.

 

First I drilled out the holes for the connector pipes and pressure relief valves.

 

Then installed the steam drum. The steam drum was made from a 1/2" dowel cut 4" long

 

Next I simulated the mounting flanges for the steam drum and pressure relief valves.

 

 

Then it was time for a test fit in the hold.

 

Work then began on the flume and furnace doors.

 

Simulated rivets for the flume.

 

Work on the furnace doors.

 

Taking Eric's advice I went ahead and printed the bricks for the boiler floor. After careful consideration, I determined that hardly any of this will be seen at all so I went ahead and just used the printed pattern for the entire floor, including the ash pit. 

 

 

Another test fit and all looks to line up pretty good.

 

 

Now time to load up the coal bunkers. I used some modeling clay for the form and pressed some medium grain Talus for the coal.

 

Some of the loose fill I held in place with some watered down PVA.

 

Next, build up and installation of the pressure relief valves.

 

Finally I installed the port and starboard coal bunker doors, got the boilers painted flat black and then dry-brushed the assembly white to highlight the rivets and other features.

 

Next on the build agenda will be paint up the coal once the PVA dries, build the boiler supports and the engine mounts. 

 

That's all for now, Thank you all for looking and the likes.

 

-Brian

 

 

Fantastic work on riveting, excelent . V.

Very nice boat Bolin , I will watch. happy build ! Vlad

On 8/15/2020 at 2:53 PM, MartinB said:

Vlad,

That poop deck is awesome.

Cheers,

Martin.

many Thanks Martin ! 

Hello everyone, 

Always thanks fof comments likes in advance  etc...as weekend went on following up on progress...

V. 

Im rather more than satisfied so far, measuring was spot on as both sides met graciously. I had to overrun foremast as i didnt want to take it out so i hoped both sides will meet at  kingplank. They did. I had to check constantly if lines of planks are as straight as  possible, otherwise havoc ....Already started nibbing , pretty shaky first but  think i figured it out by now...there will be break i guess i have to manufacture new stock if timbers for forecastle deck so i will post once  finished. .thanks. V. 

9 hours ago, mbp521 said:

Here you go Vlad. Enjoy. 

Thank you! oh my fantastic build even underroof decorations there, top notch  sheathing, congratulations! there is ongoing debate on Robs W. glory of the seas log about her body and more it goes more I am scared if there is a point to build on unproofed plan or vaguely criticized for appearance. even i think myself that glory has to be built more to be brought to wider public....maybe i will jump on fish meanwhile. thatforecastle gangs of anerican clippers are pretty darn complicated to me i would not like to spoil the effort...  ok back to cutty sark though  

4 hours ago, mbp521 said:

 

Vlad,

 

With what I’ve see so far by the quality of your work, I don’t see where the plank sheer will be a problem for you. Cutty Sark is on my list of builds one of these days. 
 

Unfortunately I do not have a build log or gallery pics of my Flying Fish on MSW, if you like I can post a few pics here if you like (I figured I’d ask before hijacking your build log). I started her about five years ago and in the mean time we moved. She was packed up for a few years and I only recently pulled her out of storage.  My intention is to finish her once I’ve completed my scratch built USS Cairo. Right now all I have completed on her is the hull and deck furniture. I had started work on the masts but didn’t get very far before she was packed up. 
 

-Brian

Hi Brian post here for sure. i obtained plan from model snhipways for the reason i am bugeer scaler...but i gravitate towards glory of the seas so the plan will probably lay idle for a bit hovewer it is very useful for masting rigging and overall techniques as model shipways is great at that. feel free to post here she looks very fine  thanks.  i hope moderators wont concur either. im into american clippers now after i finish cutty. but still to work on her for sure. glad to hear you think of building cutty.  cheers  

11 hours ago, mbp521 said:

Vlad,

 

It seems at that scale it would be a lot easier to do. Sounds like you are going about it the way I do mine. My approach was to cut all the planks to length and mount them in place. I then placed the nibbing Strake in place on top of the planks and marked the plank location on it. Then cut the nibbing Strake on the marks, a little fine sanding and the glued into place. 
 

These are some pictures of my planking and nibbing Strake from my Flying Fish. 
 

 

Hope this helps. 

-Brian

wow flying fish, beautiful work.Thanks Brian for explanation, soon im at planksheer so i can show how it materialize and we can possibly suggest how it goes. finger crossed  V. do you have album of flying fish so i can see her? 

19 minutes ago, mbp521 said:

Vlad,

 

Beautiful job on the nibbing. As mundane and time consuming as it is, this is still one of my favorite parts of deck planking. 
 

-Brian

Many thanks for comment Brian. I should better not complain probably because it is enormous scale...but doing it 1 time really, this was training before i reach sheer on deck..do you maybe have some hint ? I first cut straight plank, attached plank and redraw lije with pencil on share but i did not dare glie the heerline because of wallnut. On deck i have baswood sheer firmly glued so i will have to draw lulijlne cut probably carefully little smaller ..to prevent large gap...will see though. V . 

6 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

Of course everything is an estimate. but I estimate roughly a 1/4 of the hull is under water from the image I posted of her at the Glacier Fish Co. dock, using her bob stay location.  If my rough calculations are remotely in the ball park, she had a very tall hull...like that of Star of Empire/Chariot of Fame .  Even if one rudimentarily looks are her in the Peabody image, you can clearly see she had *warship* like sides.  Her Deep sides and shallow deadrise is very reminiscent of DownEasters.  I feel Clipperfan is on track with correcting her curves and noting her bow is far less blunt then previously imagined.   Can't wait for some drawings.

 

Rob

I wholeagree Rob ....that  Clipperfan turned it to the right direction. Im happy myself and eagerly following, anyway my opinion is to be taken very lightly only more like observation... as you know i am not that experienced and rather say totally inexperienced as far as american period ships. I must dvelve myself more into mckays package ships etc...

....planking ongoing. Everywhere for unpatient as i am this is tough. But patience is the key i guess. Disc sand would be beneficial i guess...definitely like subtle shades of colors of timber. 

4 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I love the new curves. But I think her hull is still taller.  Note the two images I posted.  Also note the distance from the top of the bob says to the rail at the root of the bowsprit. Then note that the distance from the bottom of the bob stays to the waters edge is roughly the same distance.  Compare this overall distance to the launching image and you can see there is still plenty of hull under the water  Just at the roll from vertical to the floor.  This side height is what was described as her having a warship side profile. You new drawing is an improvement, but I think the hull still needs to be taller.   Do you see what I’m talking about?

Hello folks, correct Rob, proportionality in height of hull is clearly off. above waterlevel nose is half of what is under water and there must be at least 1/3 rd more of hold under water  .....nevertheless i like the curvature of the gang and bow. will compare to my drawings as well.