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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Looks very effective Ed, I like the idea of the loosely twisted wire. The smallest copper chain I have found so far is 42 lpi so this tip is very handy. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Nice rigging effort Dave; a simple but very effective jig for doing the detail. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Good to see you back at the shipyard Toni cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    You should have been a surgeon Greg - steady hands cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi guys, I concur with Druxey's observation - I have read in an Ordnance Handbook, or 'official' publication about ordnance being manufactured back in the mid-1800s - just cannot recall the publication at the moment (may have been Douglas but would need to check). The author states that these barrel markings were only applied to naval style guns used in coastal defence. In this publication there is also some discussion about the use of Dispart and Tangent sights (introduced by Miller for naval guns) so may have been in relation to the fact that such marks were unnecessary given these sights (this my interpretation as there is no clear relationship implied nor discussed in the book). If the factory/ordnance authority publish such a statement it is good enough for me Even with such sights, the lock issue as Jud describes was the major problem. This lead to the introduction of the gunlocks at about the same time, or just a little later. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi Sailor and Dave, Dave, sorry to intrude on your build but in relation to Compressors Vs Stoppers: My understanding is the compressor is near or part of the naval pipe (where cable leaves the deck, usually near the capstan down/up from the cable lockers below); the cable stopper looks a little similar but functions differently and is located closer to the hawse pipes? cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice progress greg, another fine example of detailing. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice mods Danny cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Thanks Russ and Carl. The bulbous 'nails' are an aftermarket ring bolt I picked up from a Melbourne Hobby Store. No maker's name etc on them so I can't help you there sorry. The ball parts are straight sided with a rounded top/bottom - the spherical shape (by adding to the sides) I imparted with solder. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    i all, I have been experimenting to see how to complete the davits I discussed earlier. The picture I have of the Officers and some crew on quarterdeck, shows te davits in the background. Note the shape of the davit cleat. I decided not to go with the modified shroud cleats and made some new cleats for which I have shown some of the process below. The cleats have still to be polished to remove some more of the oxidation but I think they have come up OK? One is shown loosly fitted (not glued yet) on a davit arm along with an experiment for fitting the stay and brace chains to the davit head. this was done with some very fine nichrome wire which I think will do; just need to work out how to fix it in place now Note the chain is too much out of scale but is the smallest I have now (12 links per inch) I think I need about 24 links per inch to get the scale right.
  11. BANYAN
    Seriously nice work Ed, as Rob states the idea of the plate through the martingale is a great tip. Rob, my Victoria (1855) also has the heel finishing in approximately this position, but I think in my case there is a heel chock at the base. The following is a much cropped extract from a photo of the ship I have and although grainy seems to confirm this - but open to interpretation. According to Underhill, this chock could extend back to the stem, or finish short (ramping/slanting backwards to the bow. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Coming along very nicely Danny; if you hadn't pointed out the shorter arms due to initial misplacement, i for one would not have noticed cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Ok, well that nails them then cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi Greg, those could have been awning stanchions? or even damage control shoring also. Coming along well, more great detail on this one. You make me feel positively like a snail with my build cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in Ed; I had better pick up my game a bit now. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Slow build or not John, I am sure it will be another interesting build to watch cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi Greg, would the trick of adding baking soda or talc to the thin CA work? I have seen card modellers use this technique to get a real tough bond. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Nice detail - very neat work Dave (and dockyard riggers :)) cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Very nice clean work Ed; great progress on that spar. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Thanks Dave. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    A simple and very effective jig; a well thought out solution Russ. Looks good. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi Danny, in my day they were just called rails and constructed exactly the same as the inboard hand rails. Their purpose was several: 1. Tie rail for the canvas/vinyl weather cover over the top of the funnel when the boilers were shut down. 2. Grab / safety rail when working/checking the top of the funnel 3. Tie rail for the bosun chairs or staging used when painting the funnel (safety lines were not secured to the same rail for obvious reasons). cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    I go away for a couple of days and see what you do Greg! You don't muck around between builds do you? Seems you have a real affinity for the WWII Japanese ships (or are you just trying to use up the remaining PE from previous builds ) Are you planning on this one being a real work horse also? Look forward to this build, it looks an interesting ship. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Carl and Wefalck, thanks for looking in and the kind comments. Wefalck, I pursued the white metal ones purely as a time saver. Between trying to research, draw plans and build this model time is a premium. I was able to get some davits of about the right size; all I had to do was remove a couple of fittings and bend the arc into the vertical part (thumb and forefinger pressure). i had been tempted with brass but the tapering profile from base to davit head would be difficult to achieve. As to the swivelling head, I had thought on this but the evidence I have seems to put that about 10 years later than Victoria. Noting this was a time of 'flux' and that Victoria had the latest and greatest in most areas of construction, it is possible she may have had the swivelling head. That said though, the NMM models I have found with that type of feature, including the picture above, were all dated about 1865. Also looking at the photos of the ship, it would appear that they are a more traditional head with perhaps a swivelling block? The Contract did specify bronze bound block but did not state swivelling and is fairly explicit for most such equipment. I have gone for this configuration as it most closely resembles the davits shown in the photo. I think I will go with the fine wire option, and even contemplating a change to the cleats to better reflect the type shown in the photo (need to look closely) which are more like a rod through a ball head Thanks again for your feedback and helpful comments. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Hi again folks, As mentioned above, and with reference to the photo of the davits (last one), I have yet to add two eyes to the head of each davit and I am struggling to determine the best was to do this. These will be added such that there is an eye either side of the arm, perpendicular to the horizontal axis of the top of the davit head. These eyes were used to shackle the chain stays to. One stay between davit heads, and a fore/after stay on the respective davit that led to just under the cap rail of the bulwarks. The attached image is of a contemporary boat on davits model in the NMM (SLR1793) and shows what I need to achieve. The second photo shows the davits, as fitted to Victoria, from standing forward of and inboard of the after starboard davits, showing the inward curve, and that they were fitted outboard of the bulwark. The third photo is taken from a side on shot of the ship and clearly shows the configuration, including the chain stays. The loops you can see are the falls, neatly lashed back onto the davit arms. In the second photo you can also see the man-ropes lead back neatly inboard closest to the fore davit; this I will assume will also indicate/imply that the boat steps on the bulwarks were fitted arounf this point. The conundrum. If I drill the head of the davit (less than 1 mm), the davit would be too weak and snap. I will be using two part epoxy to add the large cleat (modified shroud cleat) so I could try to glue something, but sufficient glue to hold a sub-millimetric wire eye would look out of scale and probably be two weak to withstand fitting the chains. I can't solder the eyes in place as these are white metal and would disintegrate as soon as any heat got near them The only solution I can think of is to use some very fine wire passed through the end links of the two fine chain stays then wrap around the head and fix with a small dab of epoxy. Can anyone suggest a better way? cheers Pat

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