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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Great job Dave, that is a very nice set pf boat chocks and spars on the gallows - looks great! cheers Pat
  2. Thanks very much for that great feedback and info JCF; much appreciated. Sounds like I may be able to use this stuff in lieu of trying to find and make up the Russian concoction. The second link I had shown in the first post is an Aussie outlet, but there would be so much of it I think it would satisfy the rigging needs of all our club members for the rest of their building lives "Slinging tar" - love the vision that implies I'll have a look in your latest build to see how you applied it; but one quick question, did you dilute it any for better penetration of scale rope? cheers pat
  3. Many discussions have been held on MSW about this substance as used for preserving standing rigging in sailing ships of yesteryear. In looking for some information I came across this: has anyone tried this for rigging? Is it the same basic composition? http://www.europasaddlery.com/stockholm-tar-500ml.html and this one which is specifically for rope preservation https://shop.classic-boat-supplies.com.au/boat-building-maintenance/general/stockholm-tar-preservative/ Also, some time ago, one of our Russian modellers posted a formula/solution they used to simulate this on scale rigging. By any chance has anyone made a copy of that discussion/formula as it no longer appears in MSW (well that I could find anyway) cheers Pat
  4. Eddie, I purchased the 18" Carbatec scroll saw (Hegener copy) https://www.carbatec.com.au/machinery-and-accessories/scroll-saws/scroll-saws/scroll-saw-18-old-code-ct-ss18v about 5 years ago and it has proven very reliable with very low vibration. Mine was the previous version but not much has changed. cheers Pat
  5. Congrats on finishing your Aggie Sjors; a great accomplishment. cheers Pat
  6. Seems this ship is throwing a fair number of of challenges at you Denis but it seems you are "adapting and overcoming" Nice start to your planking. cheers Pat
  7. Very nice Michael, and it does EXACTLY what you want it to do with precision (and a lot cheaper than buying one also I bet :)) cheers Pat
  8. Following along on this very interesting build. It is also great to see the various types of new/newer technologies being considered for this build. cheers Pat
  9. Denis, WRT hatch covers I would say it depends on how you wish to depict her. If you are fitting sails (at sea) then the hatch covers (canvas) would have been fitted. If in harbour, just arrived or ready to sail) you could go either way (canvas on or off), but if depicted as in port at anchor/alongside then the canvas would have been off in most circumstances with some of the hatch covers open for loading/unloading? I would also go with the flat bar handles as John has shown if you do not fit canvas sea coverings (to protect the cargo) More decisions sorry mate. cheers Pat
  10. Stunning work yet again Alexander, those look superb. cheers Pat
  11. If you are worried about the varnish reacting with the balloon try another forming method such as a sand filled bag. Get the sand bag into the shape you want, drape the sail over it and spray on the varnish. Just be sure to be using a colour fast fabric for the bag, or put a layer of glad/cling wrap over the bag between it and the sail to be sure. cheers Pat
  12. Congrats Elijah, one down and many more to build. As RC stated above, a major achievement in completing your first build, many lose patience or confidence in their skills. Good luck with Philadelphia. cheers Pat
  13. I am with John on that one denis; the only thing I think to really consider (which it appears you have) is that the colour combinations need to be high contrast so as to make them more easily visible on the sea surface. cheers pat
  14. Looks very good Russ; nice trimming work. Great decision on the wood grain, always pays to have the strength of the wood working for you. cheers Pat
  15. Mark, you have rebuilt so much of this model that you could have two ships That said, I very much like your attitude that near enough is not good enough; and it will pay dividends in the long run as you say. That deck planking is coming on very nicely. cheers Pat
  16. Believe in learning the hard way do you mate? - ouch they looked pretty good too which makes it worse cheers Pat
  17. very nice job on the boats Dave; they look terrific. The 3D printed parts look excellent also, glad to see you persisted. I am assuming the ironwork for the masts etc are also 3D printed? cheers Pat
  18. Great to see you back at the build table Denis; hopefully all is good now? cheers Pat
  19. very effective technique; many thanks for sharing it. A great explanation of the steps etc. cheers Pat
  20. Great progress greg; hopefully the book will not expose too much difference. You have certainly made some major improvements to the base kit. cheers Pat
  21. Hi folks, have not updated this build for awhile as I have been busy researching all the fitting necessary to be fixed to the bulwarks as once deck furniture is added there will be little or very restricted access to the bulwarks. I am currently determining the rigging/belaying plan to determine where cleats, eyebolts, belaying pin racks/rails and leads/blocks need to be fitted. I am also continuing to research the armaments: see following which has been resolved. cheers Pat
  22. Hi Denis - found you I was wondering why your trawler was mothballed An interesting build with very good progress. I have bolted my chair to the floor so I can't be pushed aside I think the purpose of the Like button, as used now, is to allow readers to acknowledge posts and a like means they like what you have said or done - which to me is a sensible implementation. cheers Pat
  23. Thanks for showing your process and build sequence for the frames Gaetan. It is very informative and shows how important it is to have a well thought through process in the mass production of frames. It seems you have found efficiencies in this process rather than manufacturing one frame at a time. cheers Pat
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