BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Some nice additions to your little lady John; she is starting to get her Character now. cheers Pat- 745 replies
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Keep on rattlin mate; you'll get there Love the effect you have created on the lines (close-ups) which reallygive the effect of grease heavy (tarred) lines. cheers Pat
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Nice work Ian. I am doing these at the moment also (well finish when I get back from holiday ) and your method for the ball/knob on the end of the aiming arm will help me greatly - thanks for sharing. cheers Pat
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Looking good Chris Pat
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Nice save mate, they look good especially considering the scale. Pity about the attitude from Eduard - I won't purchase anything from them if that is the way they treat customers when it is their problem Question: How do you glue your stanchions, especially the singles - both glue & jigs to get them to stay in place and look perfectly aligned from the horizontal and vertical perspectives - and get them to stay there? [Edit - I realise that these ones still have the base fret attached, I am assuming you have done singles as well where required? The type of glue is applicable to all please] cheers Pat
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Welcome back mate; she is coming along very nicely (pity my spelling isn't - fixed in edit). You'll have to bring her along to a meeting again soon (I won't be at the next one - travelling). cheers Pat
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My of my John, she is really looking a treat. cheers Pat
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Thanks all for looking in and kind comments. John, yep - that is the downside as it does cost significantly more to set up. But I would argue that if doing a lot of soldering, and some of that may be on or very near the model at times (fixing breakages etc ) then it is still a WHOLE lot cheaper than rebuying/redoing the model if it catches fire The real advantage though is that I can do several different joints in very close proximity without de-soldering the others to get a new one ion place. if you can afford it, I would very highly recommend it. cheers Pat [Edit: I should have been a little clearer that the gun barrels are after-market - these are some of Chuck's excellent products.]
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Part 2 of the Swivel gun assembly process with some partially completed units in the last photo. I still need to clean these up, blacken them and add the control arm knob/timber (not sure which way to go yet). I am also looking foe pointers/advice on what to use or how to create a fixed circular pate about half the way down the spigot that would sit on the gun post and stop the spigot going further down the hole. This then allowed to gun to rotate in the hole. This will require a very small washer type part to be soldered in place which at about 1.5mm may be a tad small to achieve cheers Pat
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Part 1 of the Swivel Gun production line These show my soldering set-up and some of the tools I use. Also the first stages in preparing and soldering the cradle for the gun - one photo shows the part in place with flux applied and bead of solder ready to for the heat. As you can see a relatively clean joint with minimal clean-up required. Please note the part is only 1.25mm x 4mm long x 3mm high. I have moved to Resistence Soldering as it enables me to really control the soldering heat and restrict the area that is intensely heated for the solder to flow. The anchor ring above was soldered in-situ with the puddenning in place with no problems. this will also allow me to solder chains, plates etc on the model if required; but some care is still required. A lot better than putting a naked flame anywhere near these materials. cheers Pat
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Hi folks, a few updates. First a completed anchor ring: cheers Pat
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The stern is coming along nicely Mark; keep practising the leaves - you'll get there. Is it a trick of the light or have your treated the window glazing to create an internal candle glow effect? Looks great in the photo. cheers Pat
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That's a major milestome mate; as you say - one that is good to see the backside of Hope there are no follow-on major tremors to cause further concern. cheers Pat
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Chris, try a bit of masking tape on the back while working it. As others have said, bring it close to shape with a very sharp knife and file/sand to shape. cheers Pat
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Thanks Steve, that explains a lot. Just looking at your pics explained it straight away - the windows were angled and not square as per AL model and hence would swing as indicated/drawn. I wish I had noticed this earlier (much earlier) I will just have to live with it as removing these runs a serious risk of disturbing the second layer (veneer) hull planking - bugger! Sorry to disappoint Greg Thanks for the feed back Steve and Greg, I will have to pay a lot more attention to these sorts of details much earlier in my next builds. At least the Vampire and HMCSS Victoria did not have these so one less thing to stress about. cheers Pat
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Thanks Greg, I'll stay with flat then Makes you woonder though, that if you had to do all that work to get the 'jaunty' offset angles whether it was the actual practice? cheers Pat
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Great story Chris, thanks for sharing. We also have an elderly member of our club whom served on the Pamir (when a Kiwi ship) for part of WWII - he has some interesting stories including rounding the horn. Not many of these 'salts' left now for whom the old saying is appropriate " when ships were made of wood and the men of steel" cheers Pat
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