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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Those ratlines look excellent Mike; great work - a nice even dip across them all. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Very nice work Steve. I will be doing this very soon - I have temporarily fixed to an eyebolt as it was easier to do a couple of other tasks; now I have something to aspire to cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Excellent work Danny - looks great! Despite the small hiccups you've had enough practice to set your sights on a real one now cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Dave, I agree with Steve. It's hard to argue with primary evidence/information cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Nice upgrade Tad; any problems with dust collecting in the box as I don't see any vacuum ports? cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Different type of sharp indeed Ulisis; it works with a burr created on the edge rather than a V/knife type blade sharp You need to ensure you maintain the burr just as you hone a knife etc. there are burring tools you can purchase; but perhaps the more experienced may be able to suggest a 'home grown' solution to this? Happy scraping - cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    May have taken a while mate, but the result is worth it - well done! I use scrapers but have learned one valuable lesson. They leave a great finish but watch the corners of the scrapers. I didn't and in my eagerness got to aggressive with the scraping and the corners left some score marks. Check you are using the right shape and size such that in concave hollows the edges/corners do not score the wood I also use single edged razors and glass for scraping. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    That's some very nice smithing mate - a great result and they look the real deal! What is that red stuff evident in some photos? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Hi Steve, like you I have been careful to stay to scale. The upper shrouds are only 0.25mm I think (need to check when I get home), but after serving with the thinnest cotton I could get, it takes them to close to 0.5mm. The holes are 0.6mm but every effort to get a served line through causes damage There is only about .025mm meat around the holes so I daren't ream them out much bigger (I will recheck scale of the trestles). I am obviously doing something wrong so will have to live with it They're done now without those tiny servings and look OK (only a few of us know they are missing ) If I start to feel too guilty about them I can come back and do them without losing much work/effort as the rattlin has not been done yet. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Looking good, nice and neat mate! Did you see this post from Steve (Hornet) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10730-endeavour-shrouds-ratlines-moved-by-admin/ (post #12) For the topgallant shrouds I have followed the replica (photo from Steve) which shows the shrouds are served where they wrap around the mast and also at the points where they pass through the trestles. Due to the limited size of holes I could make in the ends, I did not do the servings where they pass through the trestles as I could not get them to fit cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Looking very much the speedy lady John, nicely done! cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    That's a very nicely constructed anchor Danny. How did you achieve such a good finish with the puddening of the ring as that is difficult to do mate. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Having used Jim's tools for a while now I would agree Danny's suggestions and add: Saw: Include a vertical feather board to fit to the fence. Easy enough to make the board but the fitting can be problematic (well at least for me). Thicknesser: Fitting some form of minimum thickness control to reliably thickness to the exact same thickness repeatably without having to resort to manual micro measure between passes and hoping you do not exceed? Maybe a similar device as seen on some bench drills? or, an adjustable screw rod with thumbwheel on top of the plate (between body and plate) as a stop? Drawplate: If re-etching perhaps add "Top" or some wording to indicate the direction the stock should be passed ( I learned the hard way ) cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Thanks for that photo Steve which confirms my issues around these shrouds and hence my questions. The primary source are non-specific and hint/imply that the leading leg of each shroud set at all levels (main, top and topgallant shrouds etc) would have been treated the same? However, from the photos I have etc and confirmed by your photo the replica at least doesn't have a full-length served leading shroud leg at the topgallant. Beef Wellington offers a couple of very valid points also so I think I need to review some contemporary models and have a look also. My initial thinking on this was based on practicality in that "how often were these sails set and braced in such a way to cause a potential chafe problem?" Many thanks for the feedback - now back to looking at NMM models online . cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Excellent work Danny, a very nicely crafted lantern. I will be sure to tuck this technique away. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks for the feedback and the photos guys - but I am afraid the issue remains unresolved It is the TOPGALLANT leading shrouds that I am interested in - The lower leading shrouds were definitely served all the way down for the lower masts and this would suggest, that for the same reason (preventing sail chafe) that these also would have been but I have yet to find definitive support/evidence of this. The fact the shrouds are so high up makes photography difficult and having perused Lees, Steel and the AOTS noting is clearly stated. Stil to be checked is Marquardt - 18th Century Rigs and Rigging and Ray Parkin's drawings of the Endeavour. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Is that a model or the real thing? It is very realistic and very well executed craftsmanship Alex. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    That looks really great Mike - well done mate. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Hi Steve and Mike - I have been asking the same question elsewhere WRT the leading topgallant stay and agree it was probably served for the reasoning described by Steve earlier. I have checked Steel, Lees and the AOTS with no joy so far as to a clear statement/description - I will check Parkin's drawings today. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi Geoff, sorry to hijack your thread - I hope it is OK as it is related and may be of use to you also. I will move the question to a new topic if you wish. Good luck with your rigging - please be careful when rigging around the spars etc (as testament from my experience - see my log ) I am trying to establish whether the leading pair of topgallant shrouds were served along their full length similar to the lower shrouds? Any advice most appreciated. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi Steve, in this instance I think the AOTS may be correct (WRT topgallant shrouds). According to Lees (page 61 under the topic of Topgallant and Royal masts - Shrouds) the practice of leading the tail end of the shroud down to the top to be secured to the eye or an eyebolt did not come into vouge until the early 19th century. I am still trying to determine how the Main stay was secured - collar around the bowsprit or eyebolt. I have experimented with both and have temporarily used an eyebolt but in a slightly different position. I am leaning towards the collar also but intend to do a search of the NMM models contemporary to that era and see what is done. Get back to you when I have completed that. I am currently trying to determine whether the leading topgallant mast shroud leg was served similar to lower mast shrouds - any ideas? cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Coming along very nicely indeed Mark - she looks good with her skirts being added Laser cutter? Now that is getting radical cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    That's a very good idea mate - thanks for passing on this effective method from Greg. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    John, she is building into a very well executed and great looking model. I love the privet for the decks as they have that worn/used look! cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Very nice model Greg, she has turned out a treat. A great testament to your persistence and skills. cheers Pat

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