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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Glad to see you back at work.. That Deck looks great.. Basswood can be surprising if worked correctly.. Also, I have seen a great deal in variance in the quality of basswood I have seen over the years. In my experience it doesn't stain well, but can look really good when varnished.. Your deck is testament to that.
  2. Are you referring to their " Easel " software or something else?
  3. I just can't wrap my head around the idea of bolt ropes without sails. It's like wearing a belt with no pants..
  4. I'm confident your paint work will not detract form the quality of your ship.. Besides, unless you were going to avoid paint altogether, leaving the hull unpainted while using paint for other major aspects of the model, such as the counter and bulwarks, the unpainted hull would look a bit incongruous IMO..
  5. I don't think you are going to get close to a 24" table in that price range..
  6. I'm no expert, and didn't give it much thought until Allan brought it up.. Lavery talked about how heavy the guns were and why the tackle was necessary.. 32 Seems like an arbitrary cut-off point. On another hand, I don't see ship fitters using a double when a single would get the job done..
  7. @ Thukydides In another post Allan said: Lavery in Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600-1815 says: " A gun tackle consisted of a rope fixed to a single block, passed through a double block, and through the double block again. He also says " In 1716 tackles were of 2 1/2in rope for guns of 24lb or more and 2in for smaller guns. The blocks were 8 or 6 1/2 in." Lavery is usually considered reliable, but he may have failed to elaborate..
  8. I had the same problem. Maybe with practice it would work better. I don't think waxing would help, or look good. The thing about the video, you don't know how many times the person in the video didn't get it right..
  9. Project " Wind of Luck " appears to be associated with a gaming site about Pirates and such..
  10. Not much help towards your question but just an observation.. This looks like a modern addition, and not part of the original document.. I could be wrong.
  11. If it was me, I would make the end pieces separate, and add the ratchet piece in the middle.. You might also try the building style that Chuck made with his little windless kit, although the shape is somewhat different..
  12. It would usually be the longest outside dimension .. Chuck could tell you for sure..
  13. Chuck has some decent hearts also.. Scroll down to see options.. Laser Cut Ship Model Parts and Fittings
  14. Will this char be visible on the completed model? Otherwise, I have heard that brushing off the loose char is sufficient to get a good gluing surface. This has been my experience with wood, but have haven't worked with any lasered MDF at this point..
  15. You might consider finishing it and keeping it as a memorial for Sam.. My condolences for your loss..
  16. You might find this discussion interesting. Typically, no double blocks on cannon smaller than 32's..
  17. Here is a discussion between FrankWouts and Chuck about the curve of the transom.. It might be of some help..
  18. I'm pretty sure Chuck has mentioned the slight arch when commenting on other builds. You might pop him a message.. He is usually quick to respond. The arch might be achieved by fairing rather than the placement of the posts.. I'll look at some other logs and see if I can be of further help..
  19. Which kit? It might be an opportunity to add detail to the inside to sharpen your building skills...
  20. I think you could soften it up a bit by sanding. It shouldn't detract that much from an otherwise great model. If you Can't live with it, you'll have to do it over. For your stern frames.. Take a good look at Chuck's prototype build in the early stages..
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