dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Nice job on those swivel mounts Chuck! I read somewhere (can't find the source) that ships only armed one side with swivels. They were easily transferred to the other side as needed.- 1,784 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Actually Brian I believe this is to be the sail room. The ventilation louvers would facilitate air circulation and help dry out stowed sails.
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The Winnie contemporary model steps only make sense if the molding sits proud of the planking enough to actually be a step.
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- winchelsea
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With regards to what Druxey has said check out this link to the Royal George in their collection. If there's a finer example of the model makers art I have yet to see it. It's also at an unusual scale of 3/16. Check out the figurehead in the second photo on the site. They can also be downloaded in hi resolution. https://collections.mfa.org/objects/38550/100gun-ship-of-the-line
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But she is shown in her launching cradle so technically speaking, rigging would be inappropriate 😉
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The builder of the bottom ship model is much better than whoever built the top!
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- winchelsea
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How about trying the Admiralty Models Echo cross section. The plans are free and a Power Point tutorial is also downloadable. There are several on this website (including the link under my name). http://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo-X-section.html
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Even the most minimal of structures on each of the decks above the stem will completely hide those few joints that are troubling you. Sometimes you just gotta call it a day and move on.
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Cumulative error is always an issue Kevin. A glued joint does add perhaps 1/2" to the thickness vs two dry fitted pieces so perhaps deduct 1/2" per plank in the next run and seem if that lands you closer to your marks. Some builders also add a slight bevel to the inboard edge of the plank for a snugger fit but you have to be careful you don't expose gaps when final fairing. BTW nice fix on that bow anchor stock plank.
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You should place a small piece of paper with your name and ship essentials so some future historian can "discover it" in 100 years. A couple of these have been found in contemporary Navy Board models and are of great historical significance.
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You've been busy. Looks terrific!
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20 year Sherline mill user and agree with everything CPDDET says above. But there are several hobby options available so check out other suggestions that will be offered here as well. You'll need to do your research here and decide how into milling you want to get. For example Sherline has a new CNC comptroller that could produce incredible results if you understand programming but I just have the basic milling machine pre-CNC. Here's a link to Sherline https://www.sherline.com/
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HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48
dvm27 replied to AdamA's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Exceptional joinery work Adam! -
Wow, Ben. Your deck paper pattern is an almost perfect fit to the as built model. Great work!
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Lovely work, Doc! As nice as those notches look I wonder if you'll still find fitting those filler pieces into them a pain. I certainly did.
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I think the way you've made them (off the ship) is much easier then trying to fit them successively inside the model. As you've undoubtably discovered these types of joints are relatively easy to make once you get the set-ups correct on the mill or the hand sequencing if using a chisel. Fantastic work, as always!
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Congratulations on a terrific start to your scratch building endeavors! Looks like you've done an excellent job on those difficult apron and aft deadwood stepping lines and she's fairing up nicely inboard.
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Sweet Alan! Are those delicate handles printed at the same time? They look incredibly fragile but scale-like.
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Bent? Not possible mon ami. I wrote blended. Make your toptimber 3 aft 11 1/2" wide to start. There is a Power Point photo that should show you how to shape it.
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Yes, I have drilled the treenails backwards and replaced the work. Actually, if you're using scale sized treenails they should be barely visible. I'm betting if the same "mistake" happened while building the ship they would have just let them be. The special case toptimbers are just made from thicker material. I then used my Byrnes thickness sander to reduce the cast toptimber to the correct thickness and blended it by hand to the lower futtock. My PowerPoint build may show how this was done. http://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Tips.html
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Henry, I'm away from my primary sources for awhile but I think you need the clamps and beams for both lower and upper decks in place before you cut the bitt pins to final height. So many variables involved. Once the upper deck beam is temporarily fitted it is a simple matter to determine where the top of the bitt should fall.
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Nice job Kevin. There is no shortcut for those pieces. It's just make pattern, test fit, adjust, test fit, ad infinitum.
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Excellent work Giampiero. I'm sure the cartridges will be in the next photos 😜
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Echo by tlevine - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking terrific, Toni. I seem to recall having trouble with my brake pumps landing inside the well and had to adjust their location. Do yours extend to the limber space or are they abbreviated? -
Great news, Johann. On the other hand (sorry) you can single handedly outrig the rest of us so get back to work with your good hand!
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