glbarlow

Thank you all again for the likes, comments, and checking in on my build log. Next up is planking the bulwarks. The first step is adding a 3/64 vertical strip as a false keel/stem at the bow. I elected to make it 1/16th thick so the spiriketing would be flush, while it stands proud for the upper two planks. The first 3/16, 3/64 thick plank is added with its top even to the bottom of the port sills. This is another of those things had to go right back at the beginning in order for that plank to run smoothly. I mention this only as a reminder to future Cheerful builders to take the slow careful time to get those measurements right. Just as important as a properly faired hull is a properly measured one, no gun port patterns to guide you on Cheerful. Here is the first layer of planking, prior to adding the spirketing. The plans call for a second 3/16 plank to go below this first one, but I found I needed a 7/32 to leave an acceptable amount of space below. I’ve also lightly sanded the outer hull with 400 grit above the wales to make ready for the moulding coming up next. I chose to cut the top row from the stern most port to the transom as a triangle from a sheet of 3/64 thick stock. The alternative with my stern would have been to have a small triangular sliver to fill at the top. It won’t be noticeable once sanded and painted and importantly it provided more wood to adhere to the bulwarks. I cut it over-sized, glued it on, then trimmed it down to fit. I imagine transom heights will very from one model to the next. In this photo you can see I painted the inside of the area where the skylight will be and added a few strips of deck planking (before adding the false deck). I don’t know if it will show once the skylight is there, but what the heck, it took 5 minutes to do. I then added the two rows of planks above the sills. There are lots of ways to do this. I could have, like I did on the outside where rabbits were required, cut individual planks between the ports. I chose to run planks the full length and then cut the ports out with my #11 blade. I feel like I get a smoother plank run this way and I’m comfortable working the ports open with the #11 blade by first cutting down the edge a little, peeling it back, then repeating that multiple times while alternating sides to prevent splintering or cracking until the waste falls away. You can see the ports in various stages of being roughed out in this photo and one above. I don’t have planks long enough for the full length, the holes and gaps are when a plank terminates I end it in the middle of an open port. The bottom two planks now have a second row of 1/32 thick planks to simulate the spirketing, I rounded the top edge a little with 400 grit to soften the edge. In reality this was a thick row of planks, not two layers, but no one will know the difference. It’s good to remember we’re building models, not actual ships and its ok to simulate some things. Along with my #11 blade and needle file to square the corners, I brought out the “port sander” jig I made so long ago when the sills first went in, only this time turning it upside down so I only sanded the sides and not the bottom and ensuring all the ports are the proper finished width. I like how the lens distortion in this photo makes the stern look long and skinny, merely an illusion. With everything shaped and fitted it’s time to paint. Here she is with my nice bright red paint. As I said at the beginning of my log I was opting for RED! on this model. I think I’ve achieved that with my Golden Cadium Medium Red, I like it. (although its not as red-orange as it appears in these photos, it's bright but not this bright). Now I’ve put off adding the fancy moulding as long as I can, that and the cap rails are up next.

I lock it it with wood glue using a laser level to make sure it’s straight. It is an anxious time ensuring it dries straight, but once it is no worries from there. You have to tension the lines so they are taunt but not tight. I use the analogy of a guitar string, just short of floppy. Also where the bottom up inside out comes into play, this helps keep things properly aligned. Click on the link for my Lady Nelson build In my signature line below and scroll way down. I describe my process for rigging and stepping the mast. It should be of some help if you choose my method. Don’t over think it, you can adjust as you go.

This is my 1,000th post on MSW. I don’t have anything interesting to say but thought I should at least memorialize number 1,000 here on my build log. I’ll have a new update soon. A lot of non-model activity is going on, limiting my time in the shop. Yay, 1,000 posts. 🎉🎊🎈🍾

Well, there you go. The common method is there no common method apparently 😁

Clever recovery but Chris’ designs don’t require any form of filler at the bow, you may want to study your first planking pattern to determine where you went wrong before starting the second planking. The number of full run tapered planks at the bow will equal the same number of full width planks midship. This where lining the hull and tick strips pay off. Just trying to help.

I don’t favor that method at all. I build the full mast and attach everything rope, shroud, and block l can off the ship. It looks like a tangled mess but it is a much smoother process than running the lines after it’s stepped on the ship. Once the mast is up and rigged then I add the yards on the ship. Since the lifts are part of that rigged mast it goes easier. Put a pin in the center back of the yard and match and glue it to the right location as shown by the plans for each yard. Even still the ropes and blocks have to be attached in the right order. Generally from the inside out and from the bottom up is a reasonable guide for the order. The plans are all you need for rigging, instructions would be more confusing than helpful in my experience. Other than rat lines, rigging the ship is a fun part of the build. Sooo much string...

I guess as long as the ship they're fighting is below them 😄

I hope your enjoying your decisions, don’t let a log or other builders dictate anything. Your cannon rigging looks great.

Tell her spray cans are bad for your Lungs and the ozone layer😁

May want to do a test to compare a spray can to using a brush on the hull. The brush strokes on a wooden sailing ship would look more natural than the static look of spray paint, in my opinion.

Amazing work! I see you have a new friend to keep you company on the deck.

It’s looking great.

Copper plating this monster almost did me in. I enjoyed the phase you’re on now. Very neat work.

Mine too, Not just that but scratch building all the parts and milling the wood are all new to me despite it being my 9th model. As we both know it’s very different, even with the expert direction and sub assemblies from Chuck. Your work is very nicely done.

That’s the fun of it though right. Journey or not I think this is my third post saying what a great job you did. And, welcome to my do it over until you get it right club😁

Now that I see the real thing your paint work is even more impressive. I think you should take up Spyglasse’s comment and make a working version of the deck and just throw stuff everywhere 😂🤣😂

Great work as usual on the no rush planking. I like how you demonstrated the bending and taper points. Enjoy your holiday. Ours was supposed to have been a trip to Spain and Portugal, we would have left next week. 😕

The same but different hull planking. Looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for the detailed explanations.

I gave it a lot of thought and did several tests myself. And concluded I didn't want to muck up my hull with tree nails. I'm happy with my decision. Great work on a nice model!

Great work! Nice to see a little heads up on what I have coming next, just being half done with bulwarks planking. Those scarf joints are scaring me a bit. Glad to see you got through that step. I'm sure I'll make a half dozen before getting one I like.

Not at all, I'm envious of having the skills it must take to build a musical instrument. We build boats, but don't rely on the quality of our builds to create music... Chris' designs are such you should not need a drop plank, provided you begin tapering early at the bow. I've not started my Flirt yet, a long way to go with Cheerful, I'd be surprised if stealers are needed, but they are relatively common and not a big deal - especially as the hull will be painted to the waterline so they won't be visible anyway. I do think perhaps your taper at the stern may be a bit too much. The tick marks there should go all the way to the keel, not just around the bulkhead. You end up sanding that down for the sternpost to fit, but the measurement should include the length of the stern. The number of planks at the stern should equal the length from the gunport pattern to the keel including curves - which makes paper tick strips essential to do the measuring. I do all my plank bending with a board, clamps, and a travel iron. You'll see in my Cheerful log I bend any direction including some severe twists at the stern. Cheerful is single planked so I had to be precise with the measuring, cutting, tapering, and bending. It had no tapers at the stern, so there's that. Just to be contrarian, I don't think either bottom plank is too high, especially for the first planking and especially if you already think you need stealers. A KEY point is this is your first planking - all you really need is for it to look like a ship when its done. Fill it however it takes as long as you can sand it smooth to the shape it needs to be, including the abundant use of wood filler as needed. The tick marks and the use of a planking fan might better guide the second planking to reduce the number of stealers, but as the hull will be painted using stealers on the second planking is fine. I hope this helps and doesn't just confuse you more - I do explain a bit how I do it in my Cheerful build, linked in my signature line below.

The tick strips and planking fan method works great to build a tight hull. It's a good practice to recheck those tick strips every few planks just to make sure you're still on track. Beveling the top inside edge of the plank is also good practice for ensuring a tight fit, something even us non-guitar makers know to do. Your knowledge of musical instruments is of great benefit, you're starting way ahead of most first-timers. As you'll see from the Chuck videos for the planks to curve up and in at the bow they need to be bent "the wrong way" bent down. Your monster plank bender might make the edge (vs. flat side) bending a bit of a challenge but I assume its a tool for your instrument making you're comfortable with, I'm sure you'll sort it all out. Nice work, the first planking looks tight and well tapered.

It's coming along great!

That's a great suggestion.

Thanks for the kind comments guys, they are appreciated! I really like the print. It's quite amazing to see how detailed they are for something done over 200 years ago and more amazing that from it a ship was built. At any given moment my Cheerful might become Surly - I'm trying hard to prevent that from happening 🙂