druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Stitching sails with sewing machine
druxey replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Might I suggest that, for a scale model, stitching is not the best or easiest option? However, fine the stitching, it will always be way over scale. Also, as you've discovered, stitching a straight line is very tricky. Let me suggest another possibility: First, gently stretch the uncut material over plastic wrap. Give it a dilute coat of acrylic matt medium to slightly stiffen it. Also, when you cut the material, it will not fray. When it is dry, mark out the shape of the sail in pencil, then another set of lines outside this to give the 'hem'. Draw pencil lines the width of the sail cloths apart or, if this is at a large scale, a double set of lines. Using a straightedge this should be easy! Cut the sail out to the outer lines. Turn over the edges and either glue them down with white glue or matt medium. Detail the sail to taste and you are done. -
The cigarette cards I referred to earlier are shown here (Black Prince is bottom row far left).
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In post #31 the armed, crowned figure striking with his sword is Black Prince. One of a series of Players' cigarette cards of figureheads features this.
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Syren Servo-Matic mouse making attachment
druxey replied to WalrusGuy's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The issue with making an authentic looking mouse is that it is woven, not spun. An uneven number of longitudinal threads have line wrapped around them, but in an in-and-out fashion. The only assistance by a serving machine would be to slowly revolve the mouse as you weave. It's a labor-intensive exercise! There are other ways of making a reasonably good looking mouse, as I'm sure you can find elsewhere on this site. -
If you need blocks, Chuck S., you'd better book your order early now!
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Welcome, neighbour! There is at least one other member of the forum also in Welland.
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Is there a stockpiling of blocks like toilet paper in this pandemic??? Bizarre.
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'Shoal' was a variant of the word 'sole' which, if you think about it, makes perfect sense in this context!
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MicroLux/Micro-make power chisel
druxey replied to wlell's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another possibility is a well-sharpened chisel held bevel side down. -
Reducing mast circumference without a lathe
druxey replied to Charlie pal's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You cut the spar four-square first. Lay out the shape on one side of your blank and cut it out to profile. The turn it 90 degrees and re-mark the profile. Cut to shape again to get a square but tapered piece. Next, mark the spar at intervals using a 7:10:7 scale. (This is covered elsewhere on this forum.) With the spar held in a 45 degree 'V' jig, it is cut to eight square (octagonal). From there it is easy to round off and finish the spar. -
Lovely image and work, Ab and Emiel! I can almost smell the black powder from the evening gun on the twilight air....
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You're getting there.... I find it always seems to take forever until I've rounded the turn of the bilge.
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Mark: that link does also offer the possibility "Make an offer".
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That dentillated molding is so well done it made me smile!
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A collection of figureheads and a few stories
druxey replied to bruce d's topic in Nautical/Naval History
You keep turning up little gems, Bruce! Thank you.- 1 reply
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Oh, you crafty creature, Mark! Certainly SWOPEM is a good way to go at times. And I agree that aftermost piece of spirketting is easier carved than bent. However, it's covered by the knee anyway! She's looking very good indeed.
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Hard to give a definitive answer; it all depends on the shape of the hull that you are planking. Cut a strip of card first to that width and see if it 'wraps' well along the hull. If not, narrower planks will be easier to work.
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Hanging knees in the Great Cabin would take up space and interfere with nice panelling and cornices!
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The deck plans are usually 'as built', not 'as designed'. These were the records for future repair work.
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Yes, I buy HSS number drills in small sizes in bulk as well now that they are easily available. Curiously, now I've a good supply, I rarely break one!
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Well, that is interesting, Gary. I presume the reason that their layout was so precisely recorded for Dorsetshire and Hector was that this was not typical. Usually standard features and fittings were omitted from plans as everyone back then knew where they were supposed to go. Hector, I note, was built in a merchant yard by Barnard of Deptford. Is that significant? (Dorsetshire was built in the naval yard at Portsmouth.) Does anyone have a better explanation?
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I use several layers of material because, as you point out, the holes in gauze/cheesecloth are quite large. Your solution sounds more efficient!
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