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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. This is certainly of interest. One wonders what the back-story is. Did it accidentally fall off a vehicle and the owner thought it lost forever? Did anyone call Harold Hahn 'Hal'?
  2. The completed model and its presentation are terrific! [Moriarty voice]: Come here little fellow. [Bluebottle voice]: Yes, my captain? [Moriarty]: How would you enjoy a nice long cruise, blue waters and sunshine? [B]: I'd love it. But...but... I have not got the pennies for it. [M]: Don't you worry your little empty head, my lad. It's all free. [B]: Even the blue waters? [M]: Oh, yes, indeed. Walk this way up the gangplank...Now sit down here. (Sounds of locks, chains, hammers on anvils, etc.) [B]: Oh, is the ankle bracelet free too? [M]: Absolutely! And the best thing of all. [B]: What is that, my captain? [M]: You can't fall into the water now!
  3. "Wot did the cap'n mean, Hiram? Vicissitude her?" "Dunno, Jabez. Webster h'ai'nt invented his dictionary yet."
  4. Interesting point about reef points! Ships up until the 16th century at least had bonnets - extra strips of sail - that could be added or removed from the foot of a square sail. If reefing had been invented and adopted much earlier, why were bonnets still used?
  5. How absolutely selfless! Give that man a medal. Oh, wait; it's a chocolate coin.
  6. Usually the cooking arrangements were situated forward. I presume that this was to have any smoke blow clear of the ship rather than make folk cough as it blew forward along the length of the decks! Earlier stoves were of brickwork. Due to the weight, they were placed low in the hull on the lower deck or even lower. Once comparatively lighter iron stoves came into use around or a little before 1700, the cooking area was moved to the upper deck.
  7. Savage was built by the well-known Barnard of Ipswich. Launched in 1778, she was eventually hulked in 1803; a surprisingly long life considering the vicissitudes she underwent!
  8. No more chocolate cake for you! One needs surgically clean hands for model-making, as even natural oil on the fingers can eventually mark and show on wood or metal.
  9. Just discovered this log: a lovely example of an less-modeled type. Well done!
  10. Superb attention to detail yet again! Lovely work, Gary.
  11. CipperFan: get better first, and hopefully with an uneventful recovery. That is more important. I'm sure Rob can wait!
  12. Well done indeed, Steven. It has been interesting to follow your journey into uncharted territory and ending up with a plausible result. I've enjoyed the presentation of what evidence you had in order to arrive at an outstanding conclusion. And thank you for putting up with my admittedly terrible puns.
  13. No, the groove on the circumference of the open heart should be the same as you have on the closed one. However, the laniard and lashing grooves could also be eased around the bends quite a bit as well. Think in terms of not having any line taking a sharp turn.
  14. Nicely done, Gary! She's looking great.
  15. Many models show a solid surround filling the gap between the galley exhaust and the coaming. I think that's what you will have here. As for the forecastle breastwork, you'll need to be master shipwright and decide on sheaves and/or standards!
  16. Looks as if Gregory's captive audience looks none too happy. "I have to row and listen to him?" The Madrid image has the steersman using a double-handed grip, I note.
  17. All becomes clear now! Thanks, Mark. Looks like very plausible arrangement. Two lines missing forward in the elliptical hole at the joint lines, though.
  18. Sure gives you an appreciation for the shipwrights of old and why apprenticeships were seven years long. You worte: "Marvellous how alcohol helps a problem." One way or another!
  19. Without seeing the actual model, I really wouldn't want to advise you of the best course to take. Perhaps more photos might make the situation clearer to see.
  20. At each step, be as accurate as you possibly can be. Cumulative error adds up very quickly. Errors never seem to cancel each other out! For cant frames and hawse pieces, check all these factors: 1) Angle of foot 2) Height of step 3) Height from the board to the toptimber line 4) Verticality 5) For hawse timbers, the accumulated width across them as you add each one 6) For cant frames, making sure that the sided dimension (thickness ) at the foot is correct and does not push the next cant off its step 7) Width must equal that of the maximum breadth on the baseboard
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