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Everything posted by druxey
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Remember to leave a hole covered with gauze or cheesecloth for ventilation under the model's base with a small air gap between it and the case baseboard. Does your booklet address that point?
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An armed capstan
druxey replied to bruce d's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Perhaps the fiddler sat on top and threatened to fire on any slacker at the capstan bars! -
Steel wire or hemp rope on Thames sailing barge circa 1940?
druxey replied to bolin's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I'm curious, Peter; why is Stockholm tar banned as it is a 'natural' product, and why are Swedish churches exempt? -
A serious piece of kit indeed. The square-headed nail is impressive.
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A ship named for the clown Grimaldi?!
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Don't believe everything that you read or see, Toni - including posts from me! No-one is infallible.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Push sticks are a good thing. Certainly a bandsaw is safer to use than a table saw. I've used table saws (full size and miniature) for over 40 years and still have all my digits intact. I always keep my eye on the blade and never, ever use power equipment if tired. I've unfortunately seen the results of people who have....- 475 replies
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I had a conversation with N. Roger some years ago around the time he was rigging Alert. He pointed out to me the inaccuracies and inconsistencies in Goodwin's book. Part of the issue, in his opinion, was that several artists had been involved in the illustration work. As an example, he said that the angle of the stern post is different in different drawings! I checked and, sure enough, this is so. The angle on pages 52, 58 and 84 is demonstrably greater than on pages 46, 56, 66 and 78. I rest my case, m'lud.
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Unfortunately Goodwin's Alert volume has a number of issues, this being another that I hadn't picked up on before. As far as I know, the rove is what tightens up the connection as the nail point is hammered back over it. There is a leverage effect. Perhaps a search of clench construction online might - um - clinch the issue for you!
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I wouldn't recommend 'sunning' a model. There are detrimental ultraviolet rays as well as heat - neither of which will do a model any good in the long run. Also, humidity levels wll drop in the sun, and Ben can tell you all about the trouble that can bring to a model! Much of wood color change is due to surface oxidation from the atmosphere. It will darken wood over time indoors anyway.
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Museum Researcher looking for assistance
druxey replied to FRMResearcher's topic in New member Introductions
From the appearance of the model in the photograph, its age looks to be less than 50 years and the estimate of about 25 to 40 seems about right. -
George: Just found your very interesting and informative log. Nice work so far! It's always great to see more unusual subjects modelled.
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From Wikipedia: With copper or iron rivets consisting of a square nail and a dish shaped washer called a rove. The land is pierced, the nail knocked through from the outside, the rove punched on while the head is held up by a dolly (a small portable anvil, usually of cylindrical shape). The nail is cut off just proud of the rove and the cut end clenched over the rove while the dolly is used to hold the nail in place. In planking up clinker work, one man can hold both dolly and clenching hammer. From Steel's Naval Architecture: CLINCHING or CLENCHING. Spreading the point of a bolt on a ring, &c. by beating it with a hammer, in order to prevent it drawing.
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An impressive start with steps 1 to 5 repeated. Try not to achieve step 6, please, Toni! See you in December....
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