druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Yes, I love that painting as well! I think it's called 'Fog Warning', or something like that. There's a great book called The Dory Book by John Gardner that is worth reading. -
I agree with Davec: I use about 3" to 4" lengths. I hold the piece securely in a 'third hand' and blaze away. A semi-darkened room shows me cherry red more easily than in full light.
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There are groups who gather to toast "The Immortal Memory" on this day each year.
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I am able to clamp cheeks in a vise by the inside corner to scratch mold (line the vise with soft jaws!). I don't try to go round the corner of the side arm; I finish that off with Swiss files. Also, I leave the knee arm long until after I've cut in the molding.
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Fairing the hull
druxey replied to Roks82's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Flexible sanding sticks are a good idea, Roks. Depending on how rough the surface is, you might start with 100 grit. However, unless you need to remove a lot of material (I hope that's not the case!) start with 150 grit, then 220 and, if you feel the need, 400 grit to finish. Files are not a good idea here. For protection of the parts you don't want to damage, masking tape is good. Sanding sticks will get into corners for you. -
Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
But ain't that the interesting part? -
Live steam Bagnall loco and other railway stuff
druxey replied to michael mott's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
It's like the articles I used to see in Model Engineer when I was a kid! Nice save and beautiful machine work. -
Bruce: I agree with you that that saw is the best way to cut wood - but not fingers! I hope the damage was minimal.
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Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Dovetail, I believe, Allan. See French style builds for this treatment of deck beams and clamps. -
With all due respect to Allan, I still prefer the rigidity provided by a hacksaw blade myself.
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A very neatly planked hull, Chuck. Well done.
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YT: the difference is that carbon paper is wax based, transfer paper isn't.
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Y.T's trick was to use a new, very sharp scalpel blade. I've done the same thing. I pre-painted the paper (stretched,as I was using acrylic paint), traced the outlines down using white transfer paper (traces wash off afterwards), cut the letters out and glued them on.
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On the BBC website, a new discovery: https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-hampshire-50102210
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I don't use a scraper holder at all, Mark. The length of hacksaw blade (teeth filed off!) is held in both hands like a spokeshave. You have much better control than the X-Acto blade in a handle approach. I also (where feasible) rubber cement the strip of molding to be shaped down on a backing board. This acts as a depth stop as well as securing the part.
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If you had asked this question 30 years ago, the answer would have been simple. Since the introduction of graphics programs on computers, Letraset became a dinosaur. I doubt if you can find any these days. In any case, old Letraset tended to craze and lose adhesive strength. Y.T's solution is an elegant one. You could start by printing off a computer-generated version of the lettering as he did. Alternatively, use a fine artist's brush and paint....
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Welcome back, Alan!
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Welcome here, André! As Mark said...
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Perhaps I'll reconsider....
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Very impressive; I'll order a dozen!
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You are having much too much fun with PhotoShop effects!
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Intrepid (or more likely foolhardy!) newbie
druxey replied to SottoVoce's topic in New member Introductions
Beautiful restorations, sotto voce!
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