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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Well done and well finished, Toni. The display stand is very good: it does not detract from the model. Congratulations, and on to ??
  2. Well, welcome aboard, Ab! Glad you could join us. It's great to be able to communicate with you: I wanted to say how impressed I was with the Rijkmuseum when I visited last year. The holographic animation of the half-hull model was superb! Hopefully it will inspire younger visitors to look more closely at the other models on display.
  3. I agree that sometimes, lacking a time machine or specific evidence to the contrary, 'best guess' after extensive research must make do. Annoying for those of us with OCD, but necessary!
  4. One on each side athwarthips, I believe.
  5. Oooh! A nice long-term project for someone. Looks like a beautiful production, but not cheap.
  6. Exactly, Ed. Stressing the joint before it is fully dry invites failure. How do I know this?
  7. The suspicion raised about the one of the components of sanding sealer reacting with Titebond II might be your answer.
  8. Nice progress, Maury. Good thinking ahead re the pivot.
  9. Mad, I tell you, mad.... Well done, Dan.
  10. Well played, sir! I have occasion to splice lines in place. A fairly imperceptible way is to fray the ends to be joined by separating out the strands and 'combing' them, them cutting them diagonally. A small wood block in one hand and a sharp scalpel blade in the other achieves this. A small amount of white glue on one end and (with clean, dry fingers) roll the two ends together to make a nice tapered together faux splice. Once you have the technique down, it is a reliable and surprisingly strong method of 'splicing' at small scale. I use this technique extensively for eye splices as well: they hold nicely under tension.
  11. A very well put-together video. Just don't set your planes down on their soles as the guy did with some near the end.
  12. Well done on getting the belaying pins proportionally correct, rather than the inflated chubby-handled ones that are seen on most kits and some scratch-built models.
  13. Nice dovetails, Michael. Enjoy hauling out tomorrow! End of season is always a little sad, I find.
  14. Open between the treads and two carriage pieces to make the sides of the steps would be more likely.
  15. Can you be more specific as to the 'dark glue' that you used, Paul?
  16. This detail is seen in the attached illustration, taken from The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV:
  17. That "Salvini" draught has a number of anomalies. The most striking is that the station lines and port sides are parallel to the waterline, (hence by inference the framing), not the keel. This was very unusual at that time period. There are many draughts of small ships with greater keel drag: all have framing set at right angles to the keel, not waterline. Compare this with the brig of war taken from Steel, and the 14 gun schooner, also illustrated above. It makes me a little suspicious!
  18. I suspect your gut feeling on spar sizes will be as near correct as dammit is to swearing!
  19. This is an interesting side discussion. Some years ago I had a protracted discussion with a knowledgeable person over shroud laniards. I had built a model that he otherwise found impeccable, but he took me to task over my light colored shroud laniards. I countered that these were running lines, hence not 'standing' color. He insisted that the laniards were dark. I have since been converted to brown line for these lines!
  20. Usually brass wire, blackened, is used to make eyebolts. If you have a pair of needle-nosed pliers, it makes the job fairly easy.
  21. Oh, my. Fancy framing! Those through timbers are tricky, but you succeeded very nicely.
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