druxey

Generally, Humbrol should be dry in hours, not weeks! It may be a combination of both factors mentioned, both temperature and humidity. 

Normally aft station lines blend smoothly into the keel/deadwood structure. An angle, such as you show, will be impossible to plank.

On another note, you should be able to save a 'screen grab' - rather than take off-axis photos of your screen.

Question: which set of waterlines fair properly with the station sections and a proof diagonal or two?

Bensid: Yes, that is a Boley watchmaker's/jeweler's lathe that I use. This particular model has a collet-bearing tailstock, which is a big advantage.

The standard scale that I build models at is the classic 1:48. Open boats look quite small at this scale!

Another minor update:

The underwater hull has been refined and the gudgeons added. The lower gudgeon is conventional, but the upper one on the transom is a small eyebolt. This was often the case with open boats. I looked at photographs of extant ceremonial barges and noticed that the transoms were invariably painted. It was an awkward job to do at this stage of the build, but I was successful using a 00 sable brush. 

The mounting of the model now needed to be considered. I decided to make a simple pair of pedestals in clear acrylic. These were turned, then polished. I was filing the keel slot in the second of these when one side cracked off. I had to repeat the set-up to produce a duplicate piece. Grrr!

You might consider using a piece of hacksaw blade that has been heat-softened. And certainly it's normal to make multiple passes to form the contour needed, even on small mouldings. Using too much pressure and impatience will result in a wavy and ugly result!

Coming along really nicely, Bob. Very neatly done.

Those are very acceptable looking strops, Toni. Is there enough length to hook both ends of the frapped side tackle, though? If the gun is run out, those tackle would be cast off ready for action.

Silver is very malleable, but work hardens fairly quickly. However, it is easily annealed and worked further.

Not only nice work, but nice atmospheric photographs as well!

Nice! Those will look good on your model.

Not much done this week, perhaps; but thanks for the eye candy!

Cunning dodge, Bill, on the poop deck bulkhead! Had you not pointed it out, I doubt if anyone would have noticed. Your secret is safe with us! Lovely work on those rails.

Thank you again, all, for visiting this log and for your comments. 

A small update. The corner seats forward of the coach have been made and installed. These were some trouble, and I made three sets before I was satisfied. Running the moulding along the edges where the grain direction changed was difficult, as there was a tendency for tear-out.

Instead of wooden standards uniting the thwarts and sides, there are iron straps. On Prince Frederick's barge, the arm of the strap that runs across the thwart is inset flush to the thwart's surface. The side arm is bent as appropriate over the inner sides of the planking. This detail completes the structures in the rowing section.

While the model is invertible without risk, I shall be cleaning up the outer sides of the planking and softening the edges of the laps. It is also time to make and fit the gudgeons.

The jeweller's saw is an incredibly useful tool. Use it with a bench birdsmouth ('V') board. Follow Jesse's advice and you can't go far wrong.

Well,it looks like you are making up for lost time, Toni. Nice to see you back again.

Sorry to hear of your neck problems, Nils. Hope you can get effective treatment. Best wishes.

Looking good and symmetrical, Erik.

Lovely, Giampiero, just lovely work.

Nicely coiled and hung, Chuck. Looks very convincing. Well done!

Very impressive miniature metalwork, Gerhard!

Very nice carved work, Fam. For a fully round figure, try modelling a maquette in clay (or Fimo) first. This will help you visualize things from any angle.

Clean and ship-shape work as usual, Mike. Very nice indeed.

That's remarkably well done if you had no lathe or mill. Impressive!

The weathered look is very well done, Paul!