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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Seeing your reference, Gaetan, have you tried melting the end of the brass rod to form the 'bouton'? I've found that by holding the rod or wire vertically (not with my fingers!) and holding the torch at about 45 degrees, the tip of the metal will melt and form a round ball. You could then flatten it if you want.
  2. druxey
    Steven: the ornamental work and stern were simply symbols of affluence and power. Practically, they were of no use whatsoever, other than providing windage! Some further progress on the ornamental brackets. They are glued to a scrap base and the first sides carved. They will then be detached, turned over, and the other sides completed. As you can see, they are rather small and fiddly things to produce.
  3. druxey
    Glad to read you are back at the model and hopefully not too much worse for wear, Frank. Hopefully frame alignment won't be a big issue for you. She's looking good.
  4. druxey
    You might wish to add Gerald Wingrove to that list, Michael!
  5. druxey
    Terrific detail, Gaetan!
  6. druxey
    Steven: That is a rather naive engraving of the procession, of which many different images were published at the time. The date of this was January 8. 1806. It must have been a cold, miserable day for this. The canopied, ostrich-plumed barge, (lower centre) is the one carrying Nelson's coffin. A more sophisticated and perhaps accurate version of this scene at Greenwich as the cortege departs is also in the RMG Collection (PAH 7324)
  7. druxey
    Aie! So many small pointed ends, so easy to break off. That is amazing, Bill.
  8. druxey
    Very impressive, Kees!
  9. druxey
    Looking very nice, Mike!
  10. druxey
    Persistence pays off! Well done, Mark.
  11. druxey
    On the other hand, perhaps a re-do of the piece if the gap is that large?
  12. druxey
    If you really need strength, silver solder the joint.
  13. druxey
    I totally understand, Steven. I worked without power tools and on a shoestring for many years. A thin coat of wax shouldn't narrow your grooves. Other solutions are a coat or two of gloss varnish. I wouldn't recommend anything that is water-soluble like white glue (sorry, Mark!). Personally, I use paste wax over gesso. And I don't think soap is quite 'it' either - water soluble.
  14. druxey
    Ah, yes. Th aggro of printers and scaling! My empathy on that, Maury.
  15. druxey
    Gorilla glue is ghastly stuff! I had a friend who tried to fix a piece of furniture only to have it end up glued to his carpet.... Use white PVA or yellow aliphatic glues. Much better choices.
  16. druxey
    Thank you all, yet again. Today's work was on the Hospital badge that is mounted high on the boat's stern over the upper transom. The pictures are self-explanatory. At this scale the paintwork is more impressionistic than accurate! I'll be refining the shell on the fore side of the badge more.
  17. druxey
    Well, some progress to report. The ensign staffs are done. They were made and tapered using the usual square to octagon to round method. The trucks plus a few inches below them are painted gold. I scored around each staff to act as a stop for the paint: it was too small to mask conventionally. For those wondering why the pace has slackened a bit, I've another project to announce shortly.
  18. druxey
    Ah, I misunderstood. Yes, the framing will need lateral stability when you come to fair. Even wedges of dense styrofoam should do the trick, I would think.
  19. druxey
    Much better, Maury!
  20. druxey
    Nice progress. I like your planking layout on the upper bow. I see McKay has drawn the wale planking thicker at the bow rabbet than the rest of the planking. This was not usual: wale planks normally taper around the bow and are the thickness of the rabbet where they land in it.
  21. druxey
    Good stuff! Nice to know the kids aren't being entirely neglected....
  22. druxey
    Those frames look terrific, Frank. As for keel flex, once the keelson is in and there are longitudinal such as deck clamps, the structure will be much more stable. As far as time goes to construct frames, your results are worth it.
  23. druxey
    If you are a serious modeller - and it appears that you are - and can afford it, you should seriously consider a small circular saw.
  24. druxey
    If I may comment again, Maurys, those lodging knees look rather 'chunky'. Check out photos of contemporary models, and you'll see that the athwartship arms are narrower.
  25. druxey
    Seems like a more workable solution, both from a stability and ease of construction perspective.

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