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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    A very good method you've got going there, Mark. The result will probably be more symmetric than the prototype!
  2. druxey
    Beautifully done at such a small scale!
  3. druxey
    Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.
  4. druxey
    Testor's site will bring up the Aztec line of airbrushes.
  5. druxey
    This is a lovely looking model of an unusual subject, Nils. Thank you for bringing this to our attention as well as the sad story behind the loss of both ship and your grandfather.
  6. druxey
    The Aztec is much easier to clean and you don't have to worry about needle care as much. The Aztec has small screw-in 'nose' units with the needle fully protected. Having also used Iwata, Badger, DeVilbiss and other conventional design airbrushes, I much prefer the Aztec.
  7. druxey
    That is a very clever method for ensuring symmetry of the half-frames, Ed. Adroitly managed!
  8. druxey
    One additional thought: In order to prevent (or lessen) the possibility of the bit 'skittering' across the surface of the wood, file a small flat where the sheave will eventually be, then center punch.
  9. druxey
    More absolutely beautiful work! You never cease to amaze us, Doris.
  10. druxey
    Looks legit to me, Dan.
  11. druxey
    Without seeing what your model actually looks like, i can only offer a general suggestion. Measure and mark out the hole first. Now check it again! Drill an undersized hole slowly, backing up with a pad of scrap wood. Holding the pad tightly against the inside of the hull will prevent tearing out when the drill bit breaks through. Slowly enlarge the hole to the size and shape you want using Swiss files. That way you maintain good control over the operation.
  12. druxey
    By the late 1790's decoration was heavily restricted. The full length figure was ditched for a bust or half-length. You'd be safe to go with that.
  13. druxey
    If it's quality ply you need, you have to go to a serious wood supplier and ask for Baltic Birch ply. It's not cheap, but it is good quality!
  14. druxey
    Framing is difficult enough: introducing the extra level of difficulty with a hogged keel is fiendishly hard! It looks as if you've worked out how to manage the problem nicely. Well done, Ersin!
  15. druxey
    I agree with Dan. Most of the stresses on the capstan spindle would be in a forward direction. This is where the 'meat' of the wood is. It saves weight and is less of a foot hazard than the rectangular style partners. It also demonstrates the variations that are present in different ships of the same class 'as built'.
  16. druxey
    Some black markers will fade to a brownish hue over time and with exposure to light. 'Archival' quality will not.
  17. druxey
    Worth the time to re-do, Maury! Those look much better.
  18. druxey
    Interesting theory about shippable port half-lids. In other draughts that show lid hinges, the pintles always oppose each other, so the lid could not accidentally unship. I see no reason to unship the half-lid, as long as it could open far enough to clear the muzzle of the cannon.
  19. druxey
    Hmm… looks more like Davy Jones' locker than a companionway to anywhere at present! Nice working hinges, Dan.
  20. druxey
    Thanks for your clarification, Tony! Sorry if I misunderstood you.
  21. druxey
    You will find that the point of your knife will wander less working in one direction that the other, depending on the grain pattern. Go in the direction that works. Also, a really, really sharp blade, light pressure and several passes work better than trying to cut through in one.
  22. druxey
    Tony: the 'single' port lid is, as mentioned by Jay, a 'one stands for all' convention. On other ships' plans I've seen similar 'shorthand'. In the instance of the fireship I'm currently building, there is only one port lid detailed. This is because it hinges downward, not upward. However, all the ports were fitted in the same manner.
  23. druxey
    Thank you, Jay for your well reasoned arguments and conclusions. There are many time-hallowed 'facts' that are repeated as gospel truth in this, as in other fields of endeavour. As for side opening ports, top opening ones are not feasible as there is insufficient ship's fabric to support and bolt them to. There is only a sheer rail above the ports.
  24. druxey
    Fascinating constuction at the stern with those angled planks Thanks for posting the pics, Colin.
  25. druxey
    Dirk: that is from an original draught in your first example. The lids would be useful in heavy weather, as the ship could roll quite a bit and freeboard was limited.

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