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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Too many entries to click 'like' on, so consider them all liked! One small point: the window frames would look much better if you squared up the corners. All the other carved work is lovely.
  2. Modifications look very good, Marc! It's surprising how a small change in head angle dramatically changes the general impression.
  3. I had just read an article (elsewhere) in praise of jigs when I saw your preparatory work here. I'm sure the time you took to make this is well invested.
  4. Thank you for explaining the five division scale, Jules. I also appreciated seeing the enlargement of the left side of Rembrandt's painting showing the pages - a detail I'd not really seen before.
  5. Thank you, Jules. I suspected that the 11 divisions were for Amsterdam feet/inches, but the five divisions on the right end of the scale? What do they signify, please?
  6. This is an interesting thread, Jules. Could you explain the scales on the drawings that are divided into 11 and 5 parts, please?
  7. Anyone who is serious about period rigging should have a copy of Lees' book as recommended by Allan. It is an invaluable help.
  8. Good save! Also, with thin sections like that, cut with, not against, the grain. That can cause tear-out as well. 'Listen to the wood'!
  9. Mark: I stand corrected by your researched response. However, from a model making point of view, it's easier to add the stop than cut planking back neatly!
  10. I'm surprised she didn't sail on April the first or December 25!
  11. Port lids (not hatches) are flush to the outside planking when closed. There is a rebate in the sides of the port for the lids to shut against. The rebate is formed by a thin lining of wood over the frames and port sills.
  12. I agree with Bob; an archaic non-standard spelling of 'tow'. And decaid is 'decayed' or worn out.
  13. For crisp masking, flexible Tamiya tape is the best option that I've tried. Other tapes tend to leave a ragged line.
  14. I've found heating the hacksaw steel to bright cherry red and air cool will soften it nicely. For the quantity of molding that I need to run the blade does not really need to be re-hardened, so don't bother with that process.
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