mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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If you find the 1:100 scale a bit too small, you should be able to take the plans to a copy shop and scale them up.
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You are a bit tight in there for space, aren't you? I've not fiddled with RC but have a question or two. What I think I'm seeing is that the two outer rudders will move in opposite directions when the servo moves where as the servo on the left will move the "sled" for the Lurssen effect. Or doesn't the servo (it is a servo, right) move the outer rudders during a turn? Fascinating work and reasoning to get the proper effects when in the water.
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Dave, Welcome to MSW. The lady you're looking for is Doris and she has done several ships here at MSW. All are masterpieces. Here's her current log:
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- albertic
- ocean liner
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Thanks for the support, my friends, I guess I should clarify. I'm not giving up though for a few days I did consider burning her in the stocks. But I didn't. I intend to finish but need a break from her, so I'll put her away until the muse hits again. What started out as a tribute to my wife, now ex-wife with serious health issues, took the wind out the sails and explained to me a lot of the turmoil of the last two years. Meantime, I'm thinking of trying to loft the next project. I don't think it'll be that hard to learn but will require some serious focus so that should help my mental state. I will try to fiddle and get a few sub-assemblies done for Licorne but for the next week/month <not sure, maybe longe> I'm going to work on getting my mojo back.
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Will you be painting the model? Or leaving it the natural wood color? If painting, use the kit wood. Otherwise, you have some great advice for those above.
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Model - Constellation Americas Cup boat
mtaylor replied to Looseplank's topic in Wood ship model kits
I would think the vinegar being acidic would be bad for cleaning sails. The commercial cleaner (liquid laundry soap) with a gentle soak, rinse, and dry would probably be best. I have heard of folks using baking soda but that's a basic and might be as bad as acid. -
Welcome to MSW, Jonathan. I hope you'll start a build log and let us look over your shoulder. From the 3 photos, your work is wonderful.
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Sam, I think the Yellow Cedar is a dream wood. A bit soft compared to say boxwood (ok... quite a bit softer) but it does take nice edges and a very smooth surface is possible. Order a plank or two from Chuck and try it. Hello to all. As for today.. I'm not sure where I'm going with this build at the moment. I've not progressed much as there's too much new turmoil going on personally since the first of the year, and with all the confusion, unknown outcomes, etc. things are a bit static. In the scheme of things, the mild stroke I had two years ago was minor compared to what's been going on since then and has recently escalated. It's not a health issue with me. Hopefully, I can re-find my focus and continue with her. If I can't get the motivation back, I'll just leave her on the shelf and start a new project. Please bear with me.
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Looking good. As for the light sheen, I think with all the oiling going on the bearings, lots of parts down low would have that "oily sheen".
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I looked closer at the Falconer drawing (the upper one).... there is no breeching rope or it's "hidden" as Vossiewulf says. What we see going over the button is the outhaul tackle line that's laying across the button and then falls off to the rear on the deck. <smacks forehead>
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Welcome to MSW, Irishrover. There's lots of ways to skin the cat, so to speak. There's the wealth of knowledge here at MSW. There's also a database with lots of good info here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php Scroll down on the front page and there's forums for just about any topic you'd ever want. In the kit build logs, you'll find some logs of that model that others have done and will give you a very good idea of what to expect. Also, starting a log of your own is a great way to get help and meet other builders. Books are good for get familiar with the hobby and there will be recommendations from lots of people. My first 3 books were: How to Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kits by Beb Lankford A Modeller's Guide to Hull Construction by A. Richard Mansir and a general reference book that has it's flaws but is still excellent for an overview: Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld
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Planking Clarification
mtaylor replied to Pond's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Pond, If you haven't done so, have a look at the two pinned posts here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ There's also a simplified planking here that's worth a look: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php There is a lot of good information in the database besides planking, btw. -
I'll go along with the others on this except for one point. I doubt the breeching rope would have went through an eyebolt when using the gun. That's a weak point subject to breakage. If you pull back the gun, the angles involved would tend to lift the forward end. Maybe not much though. Then again, the eyebolt might also help keep the breeching on the button when firing. Falconer does have an interesting set of drawings. It looks like breeching rope was used also as the tackle to put the gun back into battery. Somehow, I just think that's really doable due to the diameter of the rope. Top part of your Flaconer scan with the gun pulled back. The line reeves through the eyebolt and pulleys as well as running over the button. There's something about this that just doesn't seem like a good thing.
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Beautifully done, GAW. Very clean and precise.
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Here's a PDF that might get you started... Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
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I'm surprised they didn't call him "Jinx" as every ship he was on was sunk. Or maybe he should have been named "Lucky"????
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Hi Zbip57, Interesting project to say the least. Looking good. I'd like to suggest that you move the relevant pics, etc. to the scratch build area as this area is more for introductions than build logs, etc.
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Well done, jct. An interesting linage for that beast (in the model sense). One can almost smell the nitro....
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Hi Chris, Welcome to MSW. As for planking, there's two good tutorials here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ The top two pinned topic. There is also a "beginner's" tutorial here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php It's the second item on that page.
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The only ones bigger was the so-called "atomic cannon" and then there's the ones they tried building on the side of a mountain. But they were never operational. Given the choice it's a toss up on the ship or the gun. Maybe you need to do the gun as a diversion or as Monte Python's famous line: "And now for something completely different".
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source for steel bar stock?
mtaylor replied to Griphos's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Griphos, Would brass or aluminum work? Aluminum would be cheaper for shipping (weight). Brass is easier to work than steel. Aluminum is a grey area depending on the "hardness". -
Green Elephant funny car by jct - FINISHED - 1/24
mtaylor replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I gave it a "like".... I like the non-defeatist mindset. Is there something that could be put on the decal before soaking that would hold them together? I know almost zilch about plastic since it's been such a very long time. Come to think of it.. I have a CH-53 (thanks Lou) in closet I need to dig out and build one of these days.
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