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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Is the rotation of the stock such that it's cutting? The boring bar that I have actually looks like a bit of a short "L" and I to reverse the lathe to use it as it's cutting edge is at slight angle "down". Run the lathe the other way it scrapes instead of "peels". I hope that makes sense.
  2. Amazing work, my friend. So tiny yet has lots of detail.
  3. From the picture you posted, it looks like one of the Halibrand <spelling?> rear ends.
  4. Welcome back home, McSpuds. How did the Syren build go?
  5. Push sticks, in my opinion are mandatory. I also use feather boards. I got lucky and had one kick back early on and it embedded itself in the wall about 10 feet from the saw. Note that this is a MicroMark table saw. The full size ones I left the anti-kick assembly on the saw and still stood off one side.
  6. Since it had the Model T 4-banger, it didn't need an explosion proof rear end originally. Looks like you're on your way to making the the little stocker into a quick change type.
  7. One of the great tail draggers of all time there, OC. Beautiful aircraft. Count me in for seat.
  8. An excellent warning, Vossiewolf. Kickbacks are very frightening and very dangerous. Even standing off the side when one kicks can miss you but punch holes in walls which I had happen once.
  9. Thanks for the likes and comments. The trek continues.... Here's the first two frames drafted out in CAD and laser ready. I'll not clutter things up with the rest of them. Be back when either I have something different drawn out or actually mangling some wood.
  10. Ken, The attention to the details is impressive. I really never knew that things had went way beyond the old Lionel days or even the more detailed HO stuff of 20 years ago or so.
  11. Hello John, Welcome to MSW. I find it hard to believe that's a first build. It is just incredible.
  12. Siggi, Those appear to be carronades in the photo. Weren't they rigged differently due to the carriages being different?
  13. I'm smiling at the re-work. As for the "blue line", hold off until you get the bulkheads installed and can check the "flow" across the top to it. Better to wait and see than wonder how to put the wood back if it needs to be there. It does appear that the "slot" is also too high but... I'd hold off as long as possible and check the fit after the bulkheads go on.
  14. Thanks Sam. I thought of the locking tabs. I'm going to run a couple of tests to see which I like better.
  15. Usually in the hold, if I remember correctly. Same for the thwarts and any other equipment used with them. Operationally, there probably were times when items were left in the boats.
  16. JD, Definitely nose around a bit in the Scratch area. You can also "fudge" a bit and say go to 1/8" on the frames (1/16" per layer) unless you're leaving some frames exposed and going for historical accuracy. The "catch" with Hahn is that his framing is his own not historically accurate. So there's a Catch-22 there.
  17. Worked on the false keel today. I'm planning on cutting it from 1/8" ply then affixing it to keel which is 3/16" boxwood. I'll glue and pin it in place. I'll also be gluing and pinning the bow spit, etc. into place. Here's the drawing. I building in interlocking slots to get a good fit and then probably will lay some 1/16' or 1/8" stock to reinforce the joint. Since there's only (roughly) 1 1/4" of free space between bulkheads, it's a bit of squeeze to get reinforment in place. The deeper I go into this, the less my head spins. Next will cutting the bulkheads. That should be fun... there's also some stern framing for the counter. I'm giving thought (not serious yet... keyword "yet" to filling in between the bulkheads and other bit with basswood to give a solid surface for planking. I'm also musing over the thickness of the bulkheads. If I go with the basswood filling, they don't need to be as thick which makes for easier cutting and lowers the cost of the ply.
  18. Congratulations on the marriage, Vivian. I wish you much happiness. I'll add that it's great to see you back. Yes, the news out of Brazil has been strange but no stranger than anyplace else lately.
  19. Jo, I think that once you get it apart, I'd sand/file slowly and carefully and checking often, the area in part 16 where the keel sits. The other photos look like the keel is pretty square so just a bit fine tuning the stern post. I'd start by rotating part 16 on the plans and then mark where the keel notch needs to be filed and do the filing.
  20. Looks great from here also, Kevin. I'm not going to "like" that broken line post though.
  21. It might be worth looking into on quantity shipping. I would suspect that if it is, then all would need to be dropshipped to one address. VAT is still a killer though. Here's a the Hobbymill info: Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
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