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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Surprisingly good tweezers...
mtaylor replied to monkeysarefun's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'm loving them and I can see where dropping one would be bad. Even worse if lands pointy end on your foot. -
Ship lettering
mtaylor replied to rlundy90's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Lots of stationary shops carry them in assorted sizes. If none are small enough then Google is your friend. -
Lou, Do-overs seem to part and parcel to model ship building. Sometimes is because of errors and other times it's because we know we can do better. So don't get upset or feel bad about ripping off something to do it again.
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Chop Saw from Harbor Freight - Review
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Steve. I gave mine away as I realized I wasn't using it that much. Shortage of bench space and having to set it up wasn't worth the time to me as right next to where I would use it was my mini table saw. More functionality with the table saw (for me) and less hassle all around. -
Surprisingly good tweezers...
mtaylor replied to monkeysarefun's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I received mine today. They look and feel promising. I'm at that point on my build that these will come in handy so I'll be doing a life-fire test as such. -
Lovely work, Piet. As we know.. any progress is good progress and with small fiddly bits, even more so.
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Joe, I reaching into the dark recesses of memory here so bear with me. The ball was filled with powder as was the fuse. I believe there might have a different powder used for the fuse that burned a tad bit slower. After determining range, the fuse would be cut and hammered (gently) into the ball. The whole thing was put in the mortar and when the mortar fired, the fuse was lit by the blast. Note that this wasn't precise and something the fuse didn't ignite or heaven forbid, it was a fast fuse and blew the shell very early.... They were using the same type fuse on all shell guns not just mortars.
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Hello Miroslav, Welcome to MSW.
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Neil, I'd have a look at the other Ballahoo logs and see how they proceeded. At the bow and stern, many builders will use filler blocks. If you'll go here: you'll find a searchable database on the kit builds on MSW.
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Hello Neil, Welcome to MSW. Diana is probably the same manufacturer as your Ballahoo unless it's the Spanish Diana frigate. I hiope you'll start a log as it's the best way to meet folks and get help when you need it.
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New member here from Puerto Rico
mtaylor replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in New member Introductions
Hello Jorge, Welcome to MSW. Nice work on the hull as it's turning out great. -
Marc, I remembered that turned my Constellation guns from something weird (the stock guns in the kit don't even resemble actual cannon) into Parot Rifles, etc. I just need to chuck them up in either my Dremal or lathe and carefully use a fine file. I should be able to remove the reinforcing rings and reshape the snout a bit to match the French guns of the period. I just need to find the time.
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So far, so good. Shows a lot of promise. BTW, there's no need to quote yourself, just drop to the bottom of the page to the reply box and start typing. You can add photos, etc. When done, hit "submit reply".
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ModelExpo paint ?
mtaylor replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
As far as I know, if acrylic paint is dry, you can't resurrect it. This site says it can be but with cautions... http://www.how-to-draw-and-paint.com/how-to-reactivate-dried-acrylic-paint.html -
Thanks for the likes and comments. Thanks Steve. I suspect that you're right except cannon balls might have been an issue. Nice to you see back Vivian, it's been awhile, I hope all is well. After looking over the cannon barrels carefully, the thinking light came on.. and sometimes I hate that when it happens. It does look like a little work and these could be pure French cannon. I'll have to take one of the extra 4 pdrs, and test when I get a bit of breathing space.
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There are no words for this... it just has too much "Wow" in it. I've played it 6 times and every time I see more detail. The two men on the yardarm and one in the top, the movement on the deck, even the view through the gunports. I shudder to think of the render time to get all this in there.
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If your goal is to maintain the historical integrity of the model, then do minimal work... touch up only on painting, repair (preferable) or replacement of parts. I wouldn't radically change the look as that will change the model (if that makes sense). If you decide to go all out, then go ahead and don't worry... just follow your heart.
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