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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks for the comments and the "likes". Good eye, Druxey. It's not the counter.. it's that framing piece I put in. It's about 1 mm too wide and sticks out too far. Rats.... Easy to fix though. Edit of the edit: close inspection shows a tolerance build up. I'll fix it during the planking as the light on the port side is about 1 mm too wide. Not sure what happened but it's easily fixed. Actually, gentlemen, I've become even harder on myself and bolder in redos as my scrap box will testify. But it's all good. I'm also accepting the "dings"...
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Jon, Are you annealing the brass and/'or copper? Heat redhot and let it cool although some quench in water. Softens the metal up quite a bit.
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Copyright - beware
mtaylor replied to dvm27's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Jud, Given the way things are, laws trump opinion. So we gotta' deal with the laws. -
Can't even tell that it was broken and then fixed, Pat. Excellent repair. BTW, your puddening looks great.
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Weird... I have no idea why the deck "camber" would matter then. There's a waterway, right? I'm thinking they meant the sheer because that curve will dictate how the bulwark planking runs. I looked at Dubz build (bulwark planking starts on page 5) and it looks like his planking follows he sheer of the deck.. Same for Sal's (again page 5). <scratches head><shrugs>
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Bagged it!!! Still needs a bit of work to strengthen, probably some knees as this is pretty flimsy. I suspect the planking will help but I'd rather keep Murphy away.... First.. the deconstruction... cleaned out the debris and shaped it a bit better. Then attached the framing. This is where the problems hit... not that flexible and didn't get the shape of the existing frames just right. Also, the mortises on the existing frames crumbled.. could be the wood, could be me. And broke several frames filing and cutting them in. Gave it up, cleared off the damaged areas and glued it in place. Clamps removed and tarffrail set into position. It'll need a bit of fitting shaping and all the char removed but I'll hold off until this is completely planked. Looking a lot farther ahead in this area, will be the carvings. Still sorting out what the NMM plans really show and also what was common in the French frigates of the time. I suspect there will be some trade-offs because what Hahn shows would be really tiny. Not sure if they eyeball are up to it even with magnification. We'll see. I'm going to let this sit overnight and cure out completely while looking at other things needed and maybe making the knees. I think where the stern is now looks 100% better than where I started. Every step is a learning step or so it seems and this way is a darn sight easier than the way Hahn did it.
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Thanks for the "likes"and the comments. Mortises are out as the wood is too thin and fragile. I'm now on (for lack of a better term) taffrail frame #4. I'm exploring a different method now but one that should work and give me foundation for the planking. It's saving me a lot of hours, Pat and a lot of headaches. I can pop out pieces pretty quick once the artwork is done. You want to use this to cut away something on the ship? I don't think that would work out well at all... I predict smoke and massive amounts of damage. I've used the German version as that's what my grandmother taught me... Lately, the metaphors have become, shall we say, more colorful... Uh... no. At this point, it's just the upper stern transom where the taffrail sits. I hope I don't screw things up that a total rebuild becomes necessary.. so far, so good. The toy just cuts the parts, sir. Clean up is still by hand. including all the char. Thanks Jose. I agree entirely about it being better and helping the confidence level. Back to finessing and fitting small pieces of wood to make a big piece of wood....
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A beaut of a setting for displaying her Cathead. I'm thinking about that cargo.. I would add any as it will definitely detract. One sees pictures of these vessels loaded and heading up or down river and all sense of difference is lost. BTW, I love the Black&White shots... very period looking.
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Lovely and fascinating work, Druxey. That keel is tiny by any standard. Take care of business, we'll be patient.
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Congratulations on a great build and for giving us an education, Cathead. This has been a fascinating trip.
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You got me smiling, Mike. The fairing looks great. I thought I was the only one who tried a plane on frames? I also used it sparingly on the planks when I could.
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Looking good, Dave. The lids really came out well, in my opinion.
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To spile or not to spile...
mtaylor replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Looks good, Chris. You'll get faster and yes soaking to make the bends takes time. Try dry bending on scrap. Use a curling iron, soldering iron, heat gun and see if that doesn't work for you. -
I've come to the conclusion that a re-do is 99% of the time the right thing. I just don't want to start a 3rd build log of this beast.
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Nicely done on the buoy, Pat. The overall shots are impressive. Looking forward to seeing your fix on the chainplate.
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Nicely done on the building slip, Jack. I was wondering how you were going to solve that problem. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the build process.
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Congratulations on a build very well done, Bob.
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