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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. That's true, Nenad. I stop every few strokes and run my hands over the hull. Time-consuming it I but I don't inadvertently get low spots from too much pressure where my fingertips are. This is one of those jobs that everyone really has to find out what works best for them.
  2. Depending on the severity of the edge bend, you can sometimes get away with soaking and heating the plank. By pre-bending, you'll also reduce the stress the framing, etc.
  3. Jesse, What Ken shows would be for the top half of the port. The lower door hung open. When they needed to be closed, a hook and rope would have been used to catch the eyebolt and then pulled up. As I understand it, on some ships, the ropes would have left attached (Captain's choice) and tied off at the breeching ring. To secure them, they would have been tied up from the lower lid to the rings in the upper lid. On some ships, the securing ropes when to an eyebolt. I'll see if I can find picture. I wondered the same thing when I did the spilt lids on my Constellation and it took a bit of research to find out.
  4. Kevin, Your detailing speaks for itself.. careful and obviously time-consuming. She's looking really great
  5. Glenn, I'm curious, given the rather muddy nature of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, did they have a settling tank or some filtration system? I would think that the muddy water wouldn't be good for the boilers.
  6. Splice the main brace, indeed, Mick. Those hawse timbers look perfect from here. They are indeed some the trickest and most fiddly bits of the framing.
  7. Sweet, John. Those are some nice lines. For some reason, even though most of my research books are for English ships, I find myself be drawn into the French side. Which creates headaches since I neither read nor speak French. My Admiral says I barely speak American some days. :D
  8. The biggest thing I've found and also recommened in TFFM is NOT use sandpaper with just your hand. Back it with something stiff but flexible.. like the cardboard of the back of a notepad. I use some thin plastic sheets I acquired seemingly eons ago for some vacuum molding projects. These give you a good feel for what is being sanded and also the flexibility to handle curved surfaces. Also sanding sticks.. just some scrap wood with sandpaper glued to them for those small, difficult areas. I also use the disposable nail files and sanding bricks (they're really foam covered in sandpaper) that one can get from beauty supply houses.
  9. Paul, Think crew... gunners, sailors working the rigging, soldiers, etc. She wasn't a simple frigate but a 64 gun ship. There was post yesterday: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12174-galeon-san-jose-found-worth-10-billion/ and the links inside the article give more info.. http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/dec/06/wreck-spanish-galleon-treasure-haul Also, the ship blew up.. possibly a magazine explosion and survivors would have been few. Have a look at the Battle of Nile when L'Orient blew up and the number of survivors and that ship had a larger crew.
  10. JP, Do a search in the Masting and Rigging area. There's been lots of posts. Many use the square timber, plane it to 8 sides and round it, others use a lathe. I think someone (and I don't remember who at this point) actually did a made mast to scale. As for a lathe.. any of the brands that are similar to the one I linked to are made by the same Chinese company. There are some minor differences. The only thing I can warn you of is that most will require some work to be usable. Notably setting the slide gibs and truing up the chuck. The LittleMachineShop link is a good place for information. If you go to the "Learning Center" link on the top of their page there's assorted documents which explain things pretty well.
  11. Ah... something different and seldom seen around these parts. I think I'll follow along.
  12. Glenn, Is it possible that this engine is a stationary engine? It would seem that in the early years, marine engines probably hadn't matured much in their own right. A good example is aircraft engines as the early aircraft were powered by automobile or stationary engines.
  13. Jack, If you paint, no need for a second layer of planking. I think colors boil down to your preference. Or the Admiral's... If in doubt, I would go with the Admiral's.
  14. Jan, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12163-diy-router-machine/ Kees, Can you add to that DIY Router Machine to show how to mount it? Interesting tool...
  15. Per, Like most other machine tools, the accessories are the budget killer. I read somewhere that with lathes and mills, expect to spend as much, if not more, than the machine cost on tooling and accessories. I have found that very true.
  16. I'm with Ken. Hopefully you'll have smooth sailing. Funny thing about AL and transoms... I built the Scottish Maid (first build) and the instructions didn't even mention it or how to put it together. I cobbled it so bad, I ended up cutting off about 3/16 of an inch or more. The stern area of the deck is a bit crowded as a result but the funny thing is... no one ever notices. A second planking will hide a lot of sins.
  17. Joel's right on the terms. And he's probably right on the "u". :D I'm looking to switch over Linux in the next year as I will absolutely not go to Win10 but there's a few program issues.. hopefully I can find a solution although I may have add the "Wine" (add-on? I'm not sure).. Is there a different spell check you can use? I'm not up to speed yet on various flavors of Linux and add-ons.
  18. Whoa.... wow.. <drops jaw to floor> The sails really make her 'pop'. Looking great, Tom. I like the way the sails are turning out.
  19. Sweet work, Denis. I'm hoping the windows come out. Would screening (like for a window) work better?
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