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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Keep going, Jay. Looking great. It does sometimes seem like two steps forward and one back, doesn't it?
  2. That looks like the sanding block that x-acto sold at one time. I have one. Mine is 4.75" (12 cm) long X 7/8" (2 cm) wide X 5/8" (1.5 cm) thick. It can be any size you want, really. I made another one half that size for working on small parts and inside the hull. Also another one that isn't flat on the bottom but rounded.
  3. Thanks for the "likes" and comments everyone. Life keeps getting in the way of this build right now... I think we need a blizzard and I need no distractions. Fat chance of that though. Just a minor (for ship.. big one for me)... 14 strakes left on the main hull planking and I won't need any drop planks other than the one I've already done at the bow. Just some careful fitting as I continue working towards the keel. The last plank will need to be a bit wider than the rest of the planking but not as wide as the garboard plank. I'm smiling..... Work also continues on the plug for the ship's boat, albeit even more slowly than on the planking. Carving is on hold until time frees up a bit.
  4. She looks better and better every time I look in, Marsalv. Beautiful work.
  5. I agree with George.. no such thing as "over-do", Nenad. The cabin is looking great and will certainly look even better on "Her Majesty".
  6. Military might not be a bad option especially the Air Force, Lextin. They now, as I recall still have the college fund in place and you can take college credit courses (depending on duty station, etc.) while on active duty. On plus side, you'll get to see some of the world or at least the US... depending. On the negative, shipbuilding might or might not be an option depending on the duty station. Have fun at the convention....
  7. Terry, Give some thought to opening a build log. It sounds like you're doing a scratch build, right? It'll be a great way to get help and inspiration through those dark moments we sometimes get and we'll get to follow along.
  8. Bob, Go for the PVA (carpenter's or wood glue) for your model. If you make a mistake, isopropyl alcohol (90%) will separate the joint. Any CA based glue needs acetone to break the bond and acetone is nasty stuff (fire and health, both) to use.
  9. I find it helpful when doing lines on the mast/yard off ship to coil them and mark them with an identifier using paper tape. Otherwise, at some point, you'll sit there scratching your head, going... "What is this? Where does it go?". .
  10. Per, You might try asking this in the Research area. I've kinda' vague one how this all was actually accomplished since ship anchors were quite heavy. There was something I read somewhere about using the longboat to also retrieve anchors if the line was cut. Using the bouy got to the anchor and the grapple and windlass would have been used to retrieve it. The windlasses were removeable as I recall, so it's coming down to Captain's Choice, I think. But do ask it in Research. I'm curious about the answers.
  11. Per, They seem to have had it and I don't think Chuck would have included it otherwise. There's logs where the ship's boat took the ship's anchor out and dropped it so the ship could use it's capstan and move. Yet, it still does seem strange though, doesn't it?
  12. Tom, I'd bend the sails to the yards first before hang the yards, but that's me. There are ways to billow the sails before mounting which seems to work. The more you can do off ship before stepping the masts or (in your case) attaching the yards, the easier it will be.
  13. John, Well someone had to be the damned fool... It was my turn I guess. As I explained earlier, I have the scroll saw, but given some eye problems, my scroll saw skills suck. The machine is working for what I wanted it for, now inspite of the problems (solved) and the learning curve. It won't do everything like thicker wood yet, but it will when I finally pull the trigger for some 3rd party upgrades. It's no worse than someone doing a CNC mill or CNC lathe. It does shine on multiple pieces of the same part. As I've said before, "is it for everyone? NO!". Nor will I recommend that anyone go buy tech.
  14. Tom, I understand that frustration... It is frustrating to get moving along on a kit and find out that they shorted you on parts. On my Constellation, when I got the kit, I opened the box, drooled. took a deep breath and started inventorying. The kit was advertised as having a display board and stanchions... nope. Not there. I got a hold of the people who sold it to my and they, in turn, contacted AL. Got the stanchions but never got the display board. Also found I was missing the walnut second planking strips. AL did send a complete bundle of strips (not just the walnut). Sloppy quality control, but good customer service. This was some years ago so I don't know if contacting them on the missing bits would help.
  15. Stunning work, Mobbsie. Your use of woods and natural colors is wonderful to the eyes.
  16. I find it's not "patience" but "determination and focus" that gets me through. Being stubborn about some things is a good trait. At least that's what I tell the Admiral.
  17. Mayhoo, The guns only on the gundeck would have been shifted and usually not from bow to stern but from the closest gunports. For the forecastle and quarterdeck, no such luck as the gangways wouldn't handle the weight. I'd suggest just leave it as it is as the quarterdeck shifting of the last two guns would indeed crowd things a bit.
  18. Phil, What Jan said about the balsa is good info. Most hobby type places sell sheet basswood which would work better.
  19. Wow is a good choice to describe this. Make that a double wow!
  20. Giorgio, I think either way will look great. I'm partial to natural wood, but that's just my personal preference. Painting would look very good also.
  21. It also looks like there's a few steel beams and frames... although those might just be jigs.
  22. Allan, You're right.. the setup on a mill is a pain. However, it does make things repeatable. So if you're doing several scarf joints or any other work that needs be identical (or nearly identical... I'm not good enough to get exact yet) then a mill will help. Still... there's something to be said for doing things by hand and I'm sometimes sitting indecisively between either method.
  23. Excellent link Lehmann. Thanks. I'll add the link for the linen threads: http://www.threadneedlestreet.com/linbody.htm and the PDF link is down the page a bit just before the DMC thread listing. It took a bit of digging to find it so.... save you all a bit of time.
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