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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. What shihawk and Nils said. Also, it's a matter of practice and "feel". Put some beeswax on the line before rigging as this will help keep the humidity out of the fibers.
  2. Nice work on the Niagara Brian. Spot the cabins and see if you have finger room. I would think that the rails need to be in place before the cabins and other things as you'll want to make sure they are in securely. Some pin them in place for security.
  3. Float a 10 pound chunk of ice the aquarium. <very evil grin>
  4. What might help also, is to put the balsa on a slab of basswood with some PVA. cut what needs to be cut and the drop it in an alcohol bath. Once the glue dissolves, let it dry and you can use it.
  5. Stunningly beautiful work, Ray. Indeed, be proud as you've done a fantastic job on her.
  6. Wouldn't the color be a huge variable depending on the type of tree used for the bark? Perhaps even the individual methods of the dyer also influence this? I'm asking as I'm curious.
  7. Ben, Can you make the mast removable? In for when it's on display, and out when it's on the water.
  8. Beautiful work, Giampiero. I noticed the wonderful touch of the ropes securing the chimney hood over the fireplace. That's a detail I don't think I've seen before in any build.
  9. Greg, The problem with many of the full-size tools is the size. For example, a full-size table saw. It's tough to find a blade with a fine enough tooth count that doesn't splinter the woods. Some things though, like a drill press or scroll saw (with appropriate blades), work very well.
  10. This might help with the archaic language problem: http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/contents.html Jeff and QA: What the others have said about a build log and asking questions. We all ask as no one has 100% knowledge, although some are pretty close to that. QA: Those instructions seem to be very typical of Billings. I think the Wasa's were about that simple. :D But it had a great set of drawings and booklet of photos (bad reproduction problem) and excellent drawings with dimensions, etc.
  11. Denis, The secret to not getting "the look" is to no bring it up. Just do it and mumble something about "finding it in a box of junk".
  12. Chris, One tool I found works well is a variation of a floor polisher/sander I picked up from DaveS. I take a large Dremel felt disk and counter sink the hole a bit. The disk is then attached to the mandrel and then sticky back sandpaper is pressed into place the disk and trimmed to something approximating round. In the Dremel 90 degree attachment it gets me into the hull with ease. Just don't press hard, keep the disk moving and the high spots come down pretty quick. Finish is with another bit sticky back sand paper on small sheet of cardboard like the back of note tablet. Something flexible. I also use this on decks. Here's a pic:
  13. Have a great birthday, Grant. (I hope I didn't miss it)..
  14. I looked at the list for descriptions and then a only a couple for actual ordering.. not the whole site. Luck of the draw, the ones I looked at had translations available. My bad. I'll go sit the corner for now.
  15. Mike, I think that curve around to the counter throws a lot of us off and into "blue air" mode. You are not alone.
  16. Very well done, Greg. A beautiful model. I'm looking forward to seeing the Emden build.
  17. I just spent an hour at your website and need to go back and finish.. the tool making alone is amazing craftsmanship.
  18. Nenad, I'm like you. Not a master but having some fun building ships. MSW is a very good place for us as there are those who know and can teach us. And those watching, in turn, learn from our mistakes.
  19. I tried thicknessing plank widths with a jig and that worked. The jig was basically a sheet of basswood with a slot to hold the strip on edge. The sheet was clamped into place on the sander and the strips fed through in slot. I'm wondering if that might work on beams?
  20. "Waldo" works for me, Alan. The name sort of grows on you.
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