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mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Fantastic stuff you're doing for the decorations, Dave. They look super...
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- sovereign of the seas
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Nice work on the framing, Mark. I think cross-sections are a lot of fun.
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I believe that E19/1 and 2 are the Quarterdeck to Poop ladder plans as the ladder seems to be at the middle of the beams.. Catch is, I can't find a poop deck plan, nor see any other ladder going to the poop. Maybe I'm misreading this E19 drawing. I assumed the label was correct but it shows stanchions around the ladderway which wouldn't be on a ladder at the end of the deck. Did the poop deck get totally missed by Lavery? I'll look at some other resources I have... I like a good mystery and this one is a puzzle... Edit: I'm shrugging my shoulders... this is getting a bit weird... and my apologies... Hero, Hercules, and Thunderer --- NMM plans and/or models indicate one ladder from the poop to the quarterdeck.... Ajax, Edgemont, Bellona --- NMM plans and/or models indicate 2 ladders. All these are contemporary of the Dragon.... It looks like either way could be right...
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1mm metal disks on a laser would be difficult at best and it takes a certain type of laser cutter. Most cutters won't do metal very well. Photo etch is probably a better solution.
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That is dead on, Rich.
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Are the frames going to be exposed? If so, don't use plywood, you'll see the layers. Look for a tight-grain wood. Popular woods seem to be cherry, boxwood, pear, apple, (ok.. any fruit wood), maple. It's really your choice. I wish we had a Woodcraft where I live... or any woodworking store for that matter. <sigh>
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Christian, As with all things.. Admiralty orders. "All ships are to be finished. Not left looking like they need more work." And it looks like this one will be getting sails as she's been pushing on that. So......... orders is orders. I've got a pile of different grades of Scotch-Brite that I forgot I had. Bought them for a different project. Hmm... we'll see. Once I get the other side done... It's actually looking less glossy today so maybe it wasn't fully cured when I took the pictures.
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Bolt Heads on Brass Strips
mtaylor replied to mikiek's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
That I'm not sure of, Mike. I know there's also brass hammers available. What are the punches made of? If steel, then anything softer.. brass, wood, rubber. -
Bolt Heads on Brass Strips
mtaylor replied to mikiek's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Mike, Would a rubber or wooden mallet be better? At least it wouldn't damage the punch. -
Thanks again for the "likes" and comments. It actually looks better in person, IMO. The pics have picked up quite a bit of glare. I have some 1600 steel wool that I'm testing some scrap and may just kill some the shine. We'll see....The Admiral says "leave it alone"... Do I dare?
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Pete, I use the same stuff. 90%. Soak the joint and if it needs it, a paper towel soaked it in and then wrapped around the joint and covered in plastic wrap. For small parts (like maybe something went awry on some deck furniture), I just toss the whole part into a small tub of it.
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Thanks again for the "likes" and comments. Half an update.. I guess that's what I'll call it. I sanded, scraped, filled gaps and put on one coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side. There's a couple of dings I'll just have to live with. Had a weird reaction with the sanding dust and wipe on poly thought during gap filling. Some of the gaps (most) went black. I'm not sure why. Then again, the planking all looked one color until the poly went on. I'm still happy with it as the color variations give it something other than solid wall of wood color. Now focusing on the port side. Here's pics of the starboard side. And this last one is a "before" and "after" shot.
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Nicely done, Cathead. That's a great idea on the prescribed wood. It'll save a bunch of time and look good as well.
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Pete, Look for the 90% alcohol. I know Target carries it in big bottles. Less water will mean less warpage of parts. And, it works exceptionally well for ungluing joints.
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Looking good on rivets, Bob. I quite agree about the welds. Unless they used overlapping plates, welds shouldn't be seen.
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I agree with Toni... you are much too organized. And also too neat. There's no sawdust on that workbench... If my Admiral sees those pictures, I'm doomed. Doomed I tell you. Those are lovely and precise joints.
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I was wondering about you and this build, Robert. I'm happy to see you back and in good health again.
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And here I was thinking "people".. they're on the drawings.
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- pelikaan
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This was early on in the English development of the 74 which they based their designs on the captured French 74's. The French tended to limit access to officer's country and were pretty protective of it. They had a "watchkeepers" bench usually overlooking the ship from the poop or quarterdeck (depending if the ship had a poop) and that bench also doubled as an arms locker for the officers on watch. The French also had a covered companionway that was only used by officers to access the highest aft deck. Referencing AOTS Bellona shows 'as built' in 1760 with one and it was after the rebuild of 1778-1780, that there is a model showing two ladders. Which says that the Brits, at some point, decided they needed two ladders. Bottom line... I'd go with one based on the historical references if it's "as built". If it's later in life after a large rebuild, then two ladders but I suspect there were more changes during the rebuild than just two ladders.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
mtaylor replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The difference seems small until you compare them. Looks very good, Maury. -
Any PVA, from Titebond to Elmer's Carpenter's Glue. Gorilla Glue has it's followers but it foams and expands, so be careful there. CA's in various thicknesses, epoxies also. CA has a downside in the smell and some have become allergic to it. Basically, find what works for you and that you're happy with.
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I think we're all tool junkies here along with many of being bookaholics, kit addicts, and/or plan horders. There is no cure that I'm aware of. Dr. Per has topic for shipaholics but so far, no one has been cured to my knowledge. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/474-therapy-for-shipaholics/
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The Byrnes drawplate is designed for wood and works very well. And Jaager is right about the size. I was generalizing... my bad.
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