mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Be careful of using "too much" pressure as it can create issues down the road by crushing the wood. I've heard both good and bad about Titebond. Gorilla is the big problem child as it foams in the joint and tries to separate the pieces. Looking good Julie. You're getting excellent advice and counsel from Keith. I'm just following along with a cup of coffee....
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
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Aye... lots of beverages on this one... I've not done the yacht/schooner types. I think I'll stick with something simple like frigates and 74-gun ships... :P
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Go for it Jack... I guess you're in one of those "I've got 2 choices" situations. I would have thought they ran fully up.... but then again... <shrugs> I have no idea. Have you tried running a batten or two and see how they land?
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Inspirational work, Giampieroricci. I didn't realize how tiny that was until I saw on your finger.
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Fam, From the drawing, it would appear that you'll need to start at the top and work towards the keel. Your translation of the text seems to indicate also... which is the way Le Venus is coppered. Looks like the same drawing also.
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Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
mtaylor replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
Anders, Rumor has it that the Billings is no longer in business or reorganizing (depending on the source). Have you tried Googling? Maybe E-bay or Amazon? The fitting kit is #485 Having said that.... someone might be able to help with what's in the fittings kit. -
Greg, I Googled "steamboat Sultana" (without the quotes and then added "model". I also did one with "plans" instead of "model". Lots of news items but little of help to us modelers. Maybe drilling down deeper might yield something?
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Indeed, it is. Many of the mills that look like that along with many of the mini-lathes come come out of Central Machinery in China. BTW, here's a good link that has a lot of info: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php Bob, What Frank suggested. Having said that, I wouldn't buy things until you think you need them. I have, for example, an edge finder that I've used once. Then again, I'm newbie and may not be fully able to utilize it.
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Greg, A quick Google doesn't show a kit.. but I did find some links http://steamboats.com/museum/lossingmodels.html http://www.arkansas.com/attractions/detail/sultana-disaster-museum/96771/ There's plans listed here: http://steamboats.com/museum/lossingmodels.html You will probably have to do a scratch build....
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So far, so good, Jack... Looking very prim and proper. There's no pics of the stern? I would think there should be... Hmm... Have tried Googling and seeing what others out there have done? <scratches head>....
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Little boat looks great, Denis. You have eyebolts underneath it. Just run the lashing from one over to the other.. 2 lashings.
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Chuck, Your logs are one of those that set the standards for tutorials. Beautiful smithy work.
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Lovely work.. and so clean. Keep it up, Mark. You're doing great.
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Bob, Other than the rotary table, what accessories did you order? Kind of hard to add to the list if we don't know. I can relate to the Christmas card from the bank... I get one from the credit card company.
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Methods on the "puzzle" varied from country to country, and sometimes shipyard to shipyard depending on what wood was available. There's a Fair American in the scratch area along with two Rattlesnakes that might help. In the kits, there's an Armed Virginia Sloop by DocBlake. There's books for specific ships and classes, but I'm not sure which one would work for the Fair American. Perhaps one of the other members might know for certain.
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Define "best"? Location? Price? Service?
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That's great news, Bob. I agree, that kind of turn around is unheard of.
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Hmm..... Let me simplify.... here's a picture. The planks between the first wale and the last are all wide and thick. Starting after the first, they all get thinner until they're at the same thickness as the lower planks. They also change in width. I've taken a bit of liberty on the width change as I wasn't sure I could match the width at each strake. If I were doing this again <cold shiver up the spine> I would as I'm more confident and comfortable with what's needed. As for the tapering I mentioned, I lined off the hull, figured out how many strakes I needed and marked every frame to show the width. Do to the shape of hull, the planks take some "unique" twists, turns and tapering. It's not a uniform taper. I hope this helps. If not, let me know and I'll try to show it differently. The other ships (kits) I've done, and the ships I have plans for (English and American) don't have a lot "strangeness" to them by comparison. Edit: Click the picture to make it bigger and readable.
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I'll be honest, right now to my eye, it needs a lot of work but we'll see. I'm hoping that just some heavy sanding as the planks were not all same thickness. I ran out and when I cut some more, I was off a tad... I'm happy though. Good grief. I just realized I've been working on this hull planking since January... More difficult.. hmm.... I'm trying to do it scale? Ok..seriously, the kits that I did had much wider planks and were all double planked hulls so on this one I get one shot at making it right. No sanding filler, no fudging. The Triton cross-section was pretty straight forward. And yes, I'm trying to be a perfectionist... This one... I want it to scale and as close as I can.. a personal challenge and French planking of this this period has some challenges. The planking thins out as it approaches the turn of the bilge. It starts out thick and thins down. There's no distinct wales like on the English/American ships of the period. Only a "step". The ebony strake at the bottom of the gunports is the first wale plank. The wale strakes are all 3/16" wide with some tapering at the bow and definitely some unique twists at the stern. The lower strakes are all 1/8" wide and taper at the bow. Towards the stern, they taper again and then go wide at the rudder post. On the bright side... thanks to the help and advice from people here at MSW the planking is almost finished.
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Ah... in my top picture, there's a clothes pin (peg) at the bow. The spring has been reversed and sandpaper glued to the gripping area on both pieces. I've been using that method as there just isn't a way I could find to secure the planking at the bow while spiling and then gluing.
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Now there's an image and thought.. a cannon behind the couch. I love it. That is some incredible detailing you're doing, Siggi. Very well done.
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I appreciate the comments and insight. We're pretty sure surgery isn't the answer. We do need to get her off the opiates due to bowel problems and still get pain relief. Being in Oregon, we're working on the "alternative" but her back isn't simple due to a lifetime of compensation. We think the pain clinic is on the right path.... we'll see. Back on topic... here's a pic... 6 more strakes to go and one (at the bow) will need to be a drop plank... <sigh> I tried to get it without one.. but not going to happen.
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