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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    It's good to see you back and that you had a great summer. The guns look great as do the bees.
  2. mtaylor
    Steve, The engine looks good. As for the pictures.. after uploading them (use Attach This File) , if you hit the "Add to Post" on each in the order you want them that will set them in the proper order. In other words, if you want the third one showing in the thumbnails to be first, click the "Add" on that one first.
  3. mtaylor
    Excellent feedback and news, Debbie. I'm tickled that the second generation is working for you. I know it's been a hair-puller for you and Charles on this. I've been following along with Debbie and Charles on this journey and I will note that MM has updated their manuals which, if available, would have solved most of my issues. The hobby market is maturing so who knows where we'll be in a few years. After my teething problems which are normal for any early adapter, it's working as I expected. As a side note, I will more than likely upgrade to an aftermarket laser tube for more power to able to cut the wood (3/16" and 1/4" boxwood in one pass) that I'm thinking of using for my next build. It seems doable from the research and will take some modification (can't I ever leave anything stock? ) to fit the tube.
  4. mtaylor
    Kier, Have a look at this post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/439-planking-tutorials/ Check out the tutorial by Chuck as it is excellent and profusely illustrated. There's a lot of ways to spile... some mark and use a scroll saw, others heat and edge bend, others sandpaper. It'll take some experimentation to figure out what's best for you.
  5. mtaylor
    Nicely done on the wale, Jason.
  6. mtaylor
    Here's one I've used for roughing in hawse timbers and fillers. It's basically a dremel felt disk with some sandpaper on it. I use it like a rotary sander. Just go slow and light as it really chews off the wood. I also use it for the first sanding of decks.
  7. mtaylor
    From experience and I'm still learning... I'm not there yet, but getting there... Ok... so much for the personal disclaimer. No dremels on joints, ever! I use files and even then have to gauge. Just a stroke or two at a time and keep offering it up to check. If I can, I will use a disk sander but it's only to get close. Files finish the job. Sanding sticks can work, but are not as precise as files. A scroll saw can get you close. From what your wrote it sounds like you're using a spiral blade. Don't. Use a flat one with appropriate tooth count. I like the reverse tooth as they don't splinter the wood on the bottom of the cut. Just leave lots of meat to final fit. Rather than a scroll saw, use chisels to cut the scarfs. I haven't got this one figured out and am still working on technique but a lot the builders use them. Gives a clean and precise cut when done right. Lastly, practice, practice, practice. Use scrap wood of course but the more you do something, the better you become. I hope this helps.
  8. mtaylor
    I like that... and it embodies a certain philosophy very well... Semper Fi.
  9. mtaylor
    Stunning Alex. Is that a museum by chance? A beautiful setting for your ship and very appropriate.
  10. mtaylor
    Deck house is looking good, Nenad. Hmm... healthy food... I always thought that was the woman's version. The man's version involves ham, bacon, or beef, and other things like gravies and potatoes. Yes, my admiral does that to me but not often but then she wonders why I'm never sick so maybe I'll convert her yet.
  11. mtaylor
    I love that area. Have a great time.
  12. mtaylor
    Crackers, If you're using Windows, highlight the text and right click on it. You should see and entry like "Translate with Bing" or "Translate with Google. IF not, you can click on Tools and then "Manage Add-ons". Find Accelerators. The online translator should be in there and may need to be enabled. But, this is an English forum... I would suspect that if you went to a Russian or say, French forum, you get toasted a bit for writing in English. I've gone to some with questions, but I use Google Translate and note it in the text to help anyone wondering why my French/Russian/German is so bad...
  13. mtaylor
    Good question.. On a working ship, no as the lines will be resecured and/or replaced regularly. On a model.. I'd say "yes' because of peace of mind and given humidity, temperature, etc., knots do come loose. The choice of glue/adhesive is up to you.
  14. mtaylor
    It's good to see you back and even better to see you making sawdust, Mario. Nice looking keel.
  15. mtaylor
    I'm like Danny.. AL but my case it was the Constellation. A nightmare for a lot of reasons, but it pushed me into scratchbuilding. But finished, I'm tickled with it. The only kit that didn't have a negative side for me was the Billing's Wasa. I went into it open-minded and learned a lot since the written instructions were the pits. The plans were great and the photo/drawing instruction book was actually pretty good. My current project has had it's up and downs but overall.. I'm still chuffed with it.
  16. mtaylor
    There's that one and others. Here's a couple of links to two topics along that line. I think the MM one is a version of the Proxxon. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6506-sanding-the-inside-of-boat-hulls/?hl=sander http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/341-micro-power-sanders/?hl=sander#entry241789
  17. mtaylor
    That looks like an engine from here, Ben.
  18. mtaylor
    If the lightbulb method that Buck mentioned is too scary, see if the Admiral has an old curling iron she willing to part with. I've also seen them at garage sales for less than a dollar in my neck of the woods.
  19. mtaylor
    The galleries came out very well, David. I like the colors and treatment.
  20. mtaylor
    That is one pretty longboat, Erik.
  21. mtaylor
    Water? A bit of plexiglass but it would need a bluish hue to it, I think.... not sure how to do that. I guess goldfish would be out?
  22. mtaylor
    Cees, Try taking to sheets of wood at half the thickness you need and laminate them together at 90 degrees from each other.
  23. mtaylor
    Welcome back, Bug. I missed this build. The new room looks great as does the work you're doing on the SM.
  24. mtaylor
    Phenomenal work, Siggi. I think you're right on storing the tools with some on the beams. Where there are no beams then wherever the Captain says to put them.
  25. mtaylor
    You have a good philosophy my friend and yes it seems that the spice must flow. Deckhouse exterior is looking great.

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