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Everything posted by mtaylor
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There's some clarification in the discussion over here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3513-builders-of-small-boats-please-read-this/ Basically, the designation "small" has nothing to do with model size. It's based on the real thing. So, "small craft" would be the definition... a small smack but not a trawler, etc. If you open a build log and are unsure, let us (the moderators and/or admins know. We'll try to help sort it out.
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I have a smaller version of that from the local home supply store. It's the same as the picture which the one MicroMark sells but Lowe's had it on sale for a lot less. Very handy and works very well. I think that for what we do, many times smaller is better. Drill presses and scroll saws are a different critter, however.
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Who did you order it from? You might try them first.
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Sam, Good question... one I can't answer as I don't honestly know. I know my Dremel stand didn't work for this sort of stuff and neither did my full size drill press. So my guess would be: Yes.. I could do a lot with that tool if I didn't have the mill. As for the sawdust problem... it's either outside or have the shop vac running for all power tools around here. My workshop is a spare bedroom. The shop vac seems to catch >90% of the sawdust so there's minimal dust in the air at any given time. Just hit me.. the other thought is to make a small router table. Dremel makes a small router, I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to bolt it to a, say, 1/2" chunk of plywood.. hmm..... another power tool... :)
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Lovely work on the knees and a great tutorial.
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Well done, Lextin. That's a wonderful model. I find it amazing that you can figure out everything needed to get it not only in the bottle but to look great, also.
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Beautiful work, Chris. I'm taking it that you had doubts about them aligning? I think the rest of us have faith in you given what you've already accomplished.
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Piet, What about a paper tube? Roll paper, treat with PVA. Layer it until you get the thickness you need. Once dry, it should sand out.
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A reasonably good tutorial on rigging if in zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models. Depending on period and country, it's not accurate but it does give a pretty good overview. As I recall, the masting and rigging section is online somewhere. The book, while basic and general, is a must-have for many of us as it has terms and explanations of all parts of a sailing ship.
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Per this: http://www.naturecoast.com/hobby/lw.htm, the answer is yes.
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Grating dimensions
mtaylor replied to KobusBeukes's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Equal size of holes and the grating is normally the most pleasing to the eye. So, if you can, yes, 1 mm. -
Adriaan, Congratulations and a hearty "well-done". Indeed it has been a journey, and the result is that she looks great!. Celebrate and enjoy the finish line.
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Grating dimensions
mtaylor replied to KobusBeukes's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Per Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, the opening was about 3" (76 mm) at full size. Other sources say 2.5" (63 mm) All say the wood should be about the same dimension. -
Hank, Looks like everything is planned and ready to go... I hope you don't mind if I pull up a chair. When did the New Jersey leave RVN for the last time? I arrived in the middle of December, 1969 and several times over next 6 months, we saw the flashes at sea and heard the shells roaring overhead. I was at Marble Mountain... puzzlement as I remember someone telling me it was the NJ. Now I'm wondering if it was another BB or maybe a Heavy Cruiser.
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John, You might try painting your bricks and mortar before gluing them in so there's no bleed over. Once glued, weather. As always, test first. Ah yes.. I sense it.. the force is strong in this one. The darkside has cookies...
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- model shipways
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