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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Sounds like certain social media sites. They post wanting "likes" and maybe praise. But questions.... nope. Seems a bit selfish if you ask me.
  2. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW. I would suggest a quick look at other builds of this model to see what they used or didn't use. I really can't answer as I've done one wood model that was painted and all I did was white primer paint below the waterline and some flat varnish and then paint above the waterline. Just two more suggestions... do an intro in the New Members Introduction area and then open a build log. The log is a great way to get help and meet others.
  3. mtaylor
    And even with wood ships, many of us are still there. Think "detailing the lower deck".... Yep....I'm still there and doing it.
  4. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Rod from another west coaster. I've spent a fair amount of time in SoCal starting when I was in the Marines. A long pause after the Marines until I moved to Oregon about 20 years ago.
  5. mtaylor
    I didin't realize until recently that this was your first model. Not even a kit under your belt. Pretty darn amazing by any stretch.
  6. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Robert. When you're ready, start a build log as it's a great way to meet others and find help/support on your project. As for planking... go to the top of any page and you'll see near the right of the link bar "More". There's not only Chuck's method but a folder for PDF's with other methods. All are similar but have some different methods. It should give you some help on planking.
  7. mtaylor
    Do start a build log, Mary. All our first efforts are not masterpieces but a learning experience. No one will laugh or yell at you.
  8. mtaylor
    Not boring here. Just stop carrying it outside is my advice. Don't want to see this one broken.
  9. mtaylor
    What did I just watch? Yes, kill the sound.
  10. mtaylor
    Cat, I suggest you open a log of your own as it's a great way to get help, meet others, and also help out other builders doing the same model. Also, do an introduction in the Introduction area.. Welcome to MSW.
  11. mtaylor
    That all great news and work, Pat. I'm glad you got back into the shop.
  12. mtaylor
    Try an antihistomine then. But then, I don't know what your hedgerows are made of. If real plants, it's possible.
  13. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Steve. I'm looking forward to what you decide for a project.
  14. mtaylor
    No worries on the models, OC, but some worries about you. I hope you can stay on top of this along with the docs. The hedgerow area is looking good and well used. BTW, you're not having an allergic reaction to the grass, etc. on the model are you?
  15. mtaylor
    Wow... that is large model. I didn't realize how large until this picture.
  16. mtaylor
    Love it. A beautiful build and a unique display.
  17. mtaylor
    Beautiful recovery, Edward. No one would ever know she did a floor bounce.
  18. mtaylor
    Looks good, Christian. Did you decide on doing a color on the guns or are you going to let them age naturally?
  19. mtaylor
    I've tried it both ways and end up preferring a blackening solution. My prep is/was the same for both.... acetone soak first to remove any chemicals from the surface and let dry. Second, a vinegar soak to give it some "tooth" followed by distilled water to remove the vinegar. I did prime (spray can) and then brush painted the test pieces. Maybe an air brush would work better but in handling using tweezers, the paint came off where I held them. With the blackening, no damage. About the same amount of time for prep but the time for painting taking longer per batch. I was using Vellejo paints and "fine" spray primer as I found black spray paint was too thick/coarse in addition to the paint coming off during handling. Boils down to your choice and preference. Others have reported better results using an air brush and/or had issues with the blackening. Test both methods and see which works best for you.
  20. mtaylor
    I have no idea about your questions but a question for you and others... about motor interference. Would lining the motor compartment with say aluminum foil and having a small "finger" through the hull and into the water ground the static? You'd probably need as capacitor on the power feed I'd think. Or maybe just the capacitor would do the trick and filter out the static.
  21. mtaylor
    Don't sweat posting on supply/supplier issues. I'm sure others will appreciate the heads up. When I did my CH-53 I ran into a similar issue.
  22. mtaylor
    That's the way I do it on decks. I should have clarified that I start inboard on each side and work my way outboard. Sorry for the confusion.
  23. mtaylor
    You'll need to be a bit more specific I think. Maybe photo or two along with what info you need.
  24. mtaylor
    There's no need to put glue on the whole plank. Put a drop on each bulkhead/frame /beam at the spot you want the plank. Install plank and clamp into place. As others point out, it prevents a lot of problems doing one plank at a time. Given the nature of PVA, one can glue down a plank on the starboard side and then work on one on the port side. Back and forth and you'll get a rhythm for the process.
  25. mtaylor
    I laughed but this is a truism of one of the modeler's skills.

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