Stuntflyer

Thank you all for the comments and "Likes". . .

It certainly has been an interesting journey so far. Shrouds are coming soon. Speaking of which, I'm not clear on what "turning in" means exactly. I searched and found only limited information. Does anyone have something more descriptive? It would be greatly appreciated and hopefully helpful to others as well.

Mike

When I first started rigging Cheerful It all seemed a bit overwhelming and I wasn't having all that much fun, honestly. I had no real plan for completing the Peak Halliard so I decided to concentrate on one task at a time and try not to think about all that had to be done. Making a decent looking hook, for example, required a lot more effort than I originally thought. I spent the whole day trying different methods and threw out a lot of wire. Making more wouldn't hurt, but the process did get easier and I'm happy with the results overall. Taking things really slow has made the rigging process a whole lot more enjoyable.

There is a lot to be said for "peace of mind". Well done, Thomas.

Mike

While looking at some photos today, I realized that I forgot to mention a technique that I used for seizing the served rope shown in my post #279. The idea was passed onto me during a Saturday get together at Chuck's. With the heavier served rope a typical seizing might look too heavy. Here is how I did it while maintaining a thinner profile.

Before gluing, the end of the rope is cut to an angle similar to what is shown here. I like using the G-S Hypo Cement because it grabs and sets quickly.

A single overhand knot starts things off

The thread is wrapped to the end of the glue joint and finished off.

Mike

Hello everyone!

I just wanted to post this small update as I prepare to complete the gaff and its halliard work. The strops on the gaff are done using thimbles and .018 Brown rope. The flag halliard tackle uses a 1/8" single block.

Mike

druxey: Thanks for pointing that out. I couldn't adjust the lift without redoing the main sheet. I'm surprised just how much rope is needed for this, almost 18", to play it safe. Afterwards I had to shorten the lift where it meets the tackle.

While I was at it, I corrected the tackle by crossing the rope as shown in Chuck's post. A small but noticeable change.

Mike

My girlfriend Ofelia and I had a chance to visit the model ship exhibit at the Morris County Library today. http://mclib.info/Lots of interesting models to see and admire. The exhibit extends sometime into January for those that might be interested.

The rigging work continues after fitting the boom, with the topping lift and its tackle. The topping lift is .025 Light Brown and the tackle is .018 Light brown. All of the blocks are 1/4"

As you can see from the photo, the main sheet needs some tightening up.

Mike

Yes indeed, Thomas. Its looking wonderful.

Mike

If not Michaels then there is a Joann store, I think, at 2440 Arapahoe Ave, Boulder, CO 80302-6709. They should have a complete selection.

Mike

Erik: I'm using Chuck's Light Brown instead of Tan. I'm seizing with Gutermann #3880 100% cotton thread. It's about 50wt as well. If you decide to go with Tan you can use their #3756. I got mine from a Michaels store near by. I'm waiting for Superior threads to re-stock 60wt and 80wt Dark Brown. I would like to try these for seizing or serving thinner rope.

Mike

Thank you all for the comments and "Likes"

Erik: That's interesting. I hadn't thought about comparing the Longboat rigging to Cheerful. What I do know is how bad the MS rope was to work with compared to using Chuck's rope now.

I'm sometimes tempted to shoot farther away though these hi-res photos do allow you to see mistakes that otherwise might be missed.

Here is the thread link. https://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/product/so-fine-50-467-buffalo-550-yds-polyester-thread/

Mike

I've been doing a lot of experimentation over the past week trying to learn how to get clean looking rigging that doesn't look bulky and out of scale. With some mentoring along the way, I think that I have something that looks close to what I had envisioned.

The bobstay was made with .025 brown rope served with 50wt thread. http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/serving-machine.php. 1.5mm thin wall brass tubing was used to make thimbles which were blackened and used at the end of each. http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/albmbt15.htm. I had to remove and replace the two eyebolts from the bowsprit as they were just too small to share a hook and block.

The bowsprit guys were made with .025 brown rope served with 50wt thread. I needed more room for the multiple wraps of the lanyard (.018 light brown), so those eyebolts were removed and replaced as well. I will be leaving all of the rope ends long for now should I need to change the tension later.

Avi: I did twenty-three years of controline aerobatics competition before switching to model ship building. It was a great hobby but very demanding on ones time in order to stay ahead. Model ship building is a world apart yet I enjoy it even more.

Mike

Thanks, John! The room is only 10' x13'. Next week the floor lighting will be replaced with overhead LED strips.

Mike

Thanks, Michael. I'm using a Nikon D5100 with the Nikor 60mm f/2.8 macro lens.

Mike

I started rigging tonight on the new table. What a difference! Anyway, I added four blocks on the bowsprit along with a little weathering of the black band. I used Chuck's .018 brown rope seized with 50wt dark brown thread.

Mike

Welcome back, Erik! Stay focused and I'm sure that you will be rewarded.

Mike

The main work table has been height adjusted to 41". Now I will be able to start the rigging process without having to bend over all the time. It's a real lower back saver for me.

Thanks, Tom

Actually it depends on what I'm painting. For example, the caprail was done with a brush and the wales were sprayed using a small Badger airbrush. Most of the red, with the exception of some very small parts, were sprayed. I like using Testors Dull-Cote over the black paint to even out the finish. This isn't necessary for the red. On future builds, I'm still trying to decide if I should be doing a more aged or weathered look.

Mike

Michael: Thanks so much for the kind words.

druxey: I updated my "Shipwrights Terminology" document which I had downloaded from the internet. Probably not in anyway complete and I don't have a formal book on the subject. 

Mike

Ken, druxey, Thank you!

Ken - You have made quite a bit of progress on your build. I hope to see you and the model on Tuesday.

druxey - Interesting word choice "slewed". It wouldn't be the first time I used the dictionary after reading one of your posts.

Mike

I'm using Grumbacher Academy Acrylic "Mars Black C134P"

Mike

Thanks, Mike.

I was unable to get the black looking the way I wanted it so I used Dull Cote to even out the finish.

Mike

Completed the long guns today. Talk about working in tight spaces. . .

Just noticed the lack of nails on the windlass brackets. I might add them, still not sure.

I had some boxwood beads laying around that were the perfect size....I might even have enough left over to give the remainder to Mike for his model.   

Wow! That would be greatly appreciated, Chuck. I have some leftover brass ones from MS, probably the wrong size anyway. I can't wait to see the model. Can we move the next meeting up by a few weeks? . Seriously, it looks fantastic.

Mike