Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 by michael mott - 1:8 scale - SMALL

[michael mott]

Thanks for the likes and visits.

 

After a slicing through a few hoops, I thought that a couple of pics of the sequence might be useful. I did find that the best way to cut the rings was to go round the perimeter a few times this ensures that the cut is even.

 

 

 

the rings were sanded with a simple sanding fixture in a circular motion

 

 

 

Checking for the correct thickness

 

 

next the rounding is done with a sanding stick.

 

Michael

[druxey]

So you saw 'in the air', without fixing the ring? I would think it difficult holding it in one hand while sawing with the other. Also, I'm not clear how the round 'L' shaped gizmo works. Would you mind explaining, please?

[michael mott]

Hi Druxey

Holding the 1/4 inch wide ring between the thumb and index finger is actually much easier than it looks , the back of my hand is actually resting on the edge of the table.

 

As my jewelers saw cuts on the pull I have a lot of control over the actual cut by keeping the saw just cutting on the tangent and gently allowing the blade to pull it round a little after a few strokes the cut stays well centered, when it finally does cut through it moves to the middle easily but in a smooth motion. The feel of the blade working is also part of the operation.

 

The round gizmo is a simple holder that the ring just fits over and by putting a little pressure on it as I move the holder in a circular motion it sands the surface of the ring that is facing the sandpaper. after a few swirls I lift it off the holder flip it over and sand the opposite side until I get down to the surface of the part that is inside the ring. the upstanding part is just the handle.

 

This is the way I am able to sand them to thickness without wearing away my finger tips

 

I had thought about doing this as a video which might actually be better than just stills, perhaps i will do that tomorrow morning.

 

Regards Michael

[druxey]

Thanks for the explanation, Michael. That all makes sense to me now!

[EdT]

Ingenious and very effective method on the mast rings, Micheal.  They look terrific. Who would have thought?

 

Ed

[michael mott]

Druxey, Ed, and all thanks for the comments and the likes.

 

Thinking about this method further and the issue of cutting freehand with a jeweler saw the easier method is of course to not have to cut them at all.

It becomes a matter of finding the right tapered mandrel. There are thousands of old pens out there folks.

 

 

a smaller pen works just as well the trickiest part of the whole operation becomes the first layer because the tape is upside down, if the mandrel was waxed then I suppose the tape could be used the tradition way.

 

 

The smallest ring is 6.5 mm or just over 1/4 inch

 

 

a sanding holder really helps with the edges before any other shaping is done.

 

michael

 

 

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the likes.

 

Build part 30

 

Today I made a start on the cover-boards they are cut from some left over mahogany coaming from Maria, the off cut already had the curve of the sheer a happy coincidence.

 

The rough cut

 

 

After further thinning to 3/4" thickness

 

 

Michael

[pete48]

Looks good Michael, she should be Sailing soon 

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the likes.

 

Build part 31

 

Thinking about the curved deck planks and the issues of bending wood along the wide dimension I thought I would see if I could split a square section along its length after it was curved.

 

I used the heat gun to bend the Costello and then checked the curve I did leave a little spring in the wood.

 

 

 

Then using the jewelers saw I cut it along its length, my saw seems to set the blade very slightly out of perfect alignment with the frame which makes it easy to cut a long piece. this was the longest single cut I have ever made with a jewelers saw, it cut very well.

 

 

 

I will use this same technique for the rest of the planks.

 

Michael

[NenadM]

Just ... Perfect! You are a wizard!

[Wintergreen]

Michael, you started just before Xmas with drafting and now you are onto laying the deck?

 

Don't you have anything better to do?

 

Just kidding! 

Please keep on your delightful building. 

 

One note on the mast hoops, when I saw that you used the gummed paper I thought it to be a slightly bad idea since the gum softens with water and this would be a pond model...but so a simple error would you not let yourself to I saw reading on.

 

Excellent build.

[Chuck]

Just catching up with this project.  You are doing a fantastic job on this model. 

[captainbob]

Just checking in, Michael.  She's looking great.

 

Bob

[michael mott]

Thanks for the compliments and the likes and visits, they are really appreciated.

 

Build part 32

 

I made a new scraping tool to create a rebate for the caulking it is scale 5/16 wide and 3/8th deep, after sanding the plank smooth the rebate is scraped on the inboard side. I mixed up some coloured Titebond III I used some Windsor and Newton Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Violet to make a deep brown, I think black is a bit harsh on small boats.  The channel already has a fair bit of the glue filling it as a result of the initial liberal application of the glue with a brush. It will need further applications of glue done the same way as the caulking on the pilot cutter using a syringe, that will come when the planking is completed.

 

I decided to nib the planks into the king plank.

 

 

The next plank heat bent and ready for splitting, fortunately there are only 3 long planks on each side then they are much shorter so the scraping will not be a tiring on my fingers.

 

 

 

I was a little heavy handed with my scraping tool and snapped off the corner of the blade so tomorrow I shall have to make another.

 

Michael

Edited February 12, 2016 by michael mott

[druxey]

I agree that, on a model, pure black caulking is a little harsh-looking. Your model is looking very sweet.

[pete48]

Hi Michael, That is going to be a beautiful deck, well done 

 

Best Regards,

Pete

Edited February 12, 2016 by Pete48

[michael mott]

Druxey ,Pete, Thanks, also to those who added likes.

 

Not really wanting to make another cutter because the way I made the first one would be a little tricky replicate another exactly the same. I managed a salvage operation and made a small handle for the broken piece I glued it into a small piece of Costello and have now decided that this will be a good way to make these little tools in the future.

 

 

 

 

Back to the scraping.

 

Michael

[Thistle17]

Michael:

Your model of this vessel is outstanding! It brings back memories as i lived in Portsmouth R.I. in the 1960's just across Narragansett Bay from Bristol R.I. where the Herreshoff boat yard used to be. I could look out our windows at all the boats sailing out of Bristol. I would image many were this craft. It is a beautiful subject.

Today there stands a terrific boat museum, just outside of the main thoroughfare in Bristol, featuring many of thier craft. It is a tribute to the brothers. I wonder if you have ever had the chance to visit being so far away.

Edited February 14, 2016 by Thistle17

[michael mott]

Thistle, thanks for the comment and for visiting my build. I have not had a chance to visit the boat yards in the area, however back in 1986 I did visit the east coast.

 

I purchased a small dingy kit from Laughing whale in Bath, we went us as far as Booth Bay Harbour, to visit a friend Christopher Williams who wrote "Craftsmen of Necessity" his family owned a small island and there was a single house on it that was built by a shipwright in the 20's The house was wonderful and was tight as a drum. His father or grandfather was one of the first recipients of the Pulitzer prize and the house had a writing station at one side of the great room looking out over the sea.

 

I have visited the online Herreshoff Museum and spent a great deal of time looking at drawings and images of the Herreshoff heritage.

 

Gill Smith who designed and built Cat boats is one of my other favourite builders and was a contemporary of Nathaniel.

 

Michael   

[Jond]

Michael

 

As a resident of Boothbay Harbor, I welcome to return any time.  If you come in the summer, let's go for a sail in the harbor. I can show you several herresshoff.  we have some pretty good eats here too.

 

cheers 

[michael mott]

Jon, sounds like a plan. I just told Judy that our next big holiday will be to the east coast. As soon as we sell our place and move to a smaller place we will also do the trip.

 

Michael

[druxey]

I bet the holder is a more comfortable item to hold!

[Piet]

Beautiful work on the planking Michael and a great safe on your scraper tool.  It's indeed nearly impossible to replicate a new one exactly the same.  Things are looking really good - love the lines!

 

Cheers,

[EdT]

I like your idea for mounting the cutter, Micheal - and the model looks as fantastic as usual.

 

Ed

[Mark Pearse]

Hi Michael, I saw your question about a gaff mast size. I believe they need to be thicker; apart from the extra power of a gaff mainsail, the gaff spar has a lot of thrust forwards on the mast, a lot of load at one point. Below is a photo of our spars when we revarnished over winter, the mast, boom & bowsprit. The mast is the one on the left running down the shed & the slender unvarnished mast below it is a Folkboat mast, a bermudian mast from a similar length boat to ours. I think you can see the difference, which is slightly exaggerated by being further away from the camera, but standing next to them both the difference is significant. Also the taper is quite different, the gaff mast is tapered only a little up to the spreaders/gaff throat height & then tapers more above that. Above the spreaders, if the aft mast face carries the same line up, & the forward face & sides do the tapering, that looks nice. You can just make that out in the photo.

 

Mark

 

[michael mott]

Mark, thank you for the photograph, your picture confirms what I was thinking intuitively. I used my 20 foot yawl masts as a rough guide, this one being a taller one is a bit heavier proportionally.

 

Thanks to all for the comments and likes

 

Michael

Edited February 14, 2016 by michael mott

[michael mott]

Build part 33

 

The deck planking continues, I am closing in on the much shorter planks so they ought to go a little more quickly. I am also getting more familiar with the bending of the square planks now, there is no substitute for practice.

 

I set up a better method than the original almost free form method. I am now using a basic french curve type former that allows for a far more controlled bend. a scrap of redwood and some nylon buttons held on a short piece of pine.

 

 

Ready to split.

 

 

 

The three longest planks are now glued so the pace should pick up a bit now. The minor adjustments to the split planks are very easy to make now with the new bending jig. This is done after I have scraped in the rebate.

 

 

I am setting the notches individually in pairs as I move toward the mast the king plank is not fixed and can be lifted off the make the notches which make life a little easier that doing it on the hull.

 

 

Michael

 

 

[druxey]

Looking beautiful but a little messy right now! I can't wait to see the deck once it's completed and scraped down.

[Jim Lad]

Coming along beautifully, Michael.  Like Druxey, I can't wait to see the finished deck.

 

John

[Wintergreen]

Laying deck is messy regardless of scale it seems. In full scale the sikaflex used for caulking decks, smeared all over...gah. And then it is scraped off...lika caterpillat turning butterfly.

 

I think we all look forward to coming posts, Michael.